1986 (UK) S2 non start issue.
03-04-2019, 11:33 AM
#17
Rennlist Member
I have exactly the same model as you and had exactly the same problem, the clue is the alarm going off randomly. The imobiliser part of my alarm was causing the no start randomly. If you download a wiring diagram its pretty straight forward to bypass it so the EZK is enabled. I also took out the alarm box from behind the glove box as I didn’t trust it
03-04-2019, 11:35 AM
#18
Rennlist Member
Given the UK's car "Tea Leaves" [that is thieves for the colonials] is there any possibility some PO fitted a hidden immobiliser? Logic says you would know about it if there was or it would never have run but I dare say stranger thing have happened..
03-04-2019, 11:41 AM
#19
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I have exactly the same model as you and had exactly the same problem, the clue is the alarm going off randomly. The imobiliser part of my alarm was causing the no start randomly. If you download a wiring diagram its pretty straight forward to bypass it so the EZK is enabled. I also took out the alarm box from behind the glove box as I didn’t trust it
03-04-2019, 11:48 AM
#21
Nordschleife Master
Hooooo Boy.
OP - You are asking a gazillion questions about a zillion different things. And posting close up pics of everywhere.
This gets really confusing.
So, back to basics. You have an 86 S2. 16v M28/21 or 22 motor (21 is 5 speed, 22 is auto). It has the LH 2.2 fuel injection computer, with a hot wire MAF. You have the EZF electronic ignition. "F" means no knock sensors. The EZK on the S4 & later has knock sensors. You have the 'twin dizzy' distributors. Basically 2 944 distributors mounted on a single housing. Technically, the 32v have two distributors, but they are mounted on the front of the heads, with the rotors attached to the cam gears. Totally different setup.
A few quick observations:
Hood (bonnet to you) - Try oiling the hinges. Really. It's possible the wrong struts were installed, but it's more likely that the hinges are just stiff. As was noted, the hatch & hood (bonnet) struts are different. Quick & dirty test - pull one strut off. If you can compress it by putting one end on the ground and pushing down with one hand, it's a hood strut. If it's too strong for one hand, it's a hatch strut.
No start - It sounds electrical.
I would suggest pulling and cleaning the entire CE panel. It's not hard. Search out "Bzzzzt" by "sharkskin' for an excellent, pic filled write up on it. Use DeOxit, not WD to clean it. However, at least you knew that WD is a water dispersant.
Next, the alarm. Most cars have them. There is a switch in all three locks (hatch & both doors). Locking the doors or turning the hatch key to the left arms it. Unlocking doors or opening hatch with key disarms it. It's not unknown for the switch to fail, It's not unknown for just one side of the switch to fail. That is, the lock will arm the alarm but not disarm it. You can try this. Lock a door with the window down, reach in, turn the **** to unlock the door and open the door. The alarm should go off. Turn the key to unlock the door, and the alarm should stop sounding. Try each of the three lock cylinders to see what's what. The alarm will prevent the car from starting, so check that out.
Next, check for spark & fuel injector pulse. Spark check can be done with an extra spark plug or an inductive timing light. FI pulse can be checked with a noid light. You may have none, one, the other or both. That will give you a good idea where to check next.
Engine ground - Located underneath the car. It goes from the 'frame' to the bottom of the block.
Ground strap - Yours looks like a dog has been chewing on it. If the motor is cranking strongly, it's likely ok, but I'd replace it anyway.
The thing in the back, under the rubber cap/cover is your fuel tank. The cap isn't a 'coil', but the outlet and level sender. That round cover is supposed to unscrew so you can access the fuel level sender and in-tank strainer (some cars have a pump there, but I don't think yours does).
Unhooked brown wire is a ground. In these cars, brown is always ground.
The weird looking plug near the airbox is a test port. It attaches to a piece of equipment nobody has ever seen in person. Cap it if you have something that will work.
Enough for now. Check out the alarm, test for spark & FI pulse, clean the CE panel. That should keep you busy for a bit.
OP - You are asking a gazillion questions about a zillion different things. And posting close up pics of everywhere.
This gets really confusing.
So, back to basics. You have an 86 S2. 16v M28/21 or 22 motor (21 is 5 speed, 22 is auto). It has the LH 2.2 fuel injection computer, with a hot wire MAF. You have the EZF electronic ignition. "F" means no knock sensors. The EZK on the S4 & later has knock sensors. You have the 'twin dizzy' distributors. Basically 2 944 distributors mounted on a single housing. Technically, the 32v have two distributors, but they are mounted on the front of the heads, with the rotors attached to the cam gears. Totally different setup.
A few quick observations:
Hood (bonnet to you) - Try oiling the hinges. Really. It's possible the wrong struts were installed, but it's more likely that the hinges are just stiff. As was noted, the hatch & hood (bonnet) struts are different. Quick & dirty test - pull one strut off. If you can compress it by putting one end on the ground and pushing down with one hand, it's a hood strut. If it's too strong for one hand, it's a hatch strut.
No start - It sounds electrical.
I would suggest pulling and cleaning the entire CE panel. It's not hard. Search out "Bzzzzt" by "sharkskin' for an excellent, pic filled write up on it. Use DeOxit, not WD to clean it. However, at least you knew that WD is a water dispersant.
Next, the alarm. Most cars have them. There is a switch in all three locks (hatch & both doors). Locking the doors or turning the hatch key to the left arms it. Unlocking doors or opening hatch with key disarms it. It's not unknown for the switch to fail, It's not unknown for just one side of the switch to fail. That is, the lock will arm the alarm but not disarm it. You can try this. Lock a door with the window down, reach in, turn the **** to unlock the door and open the door. The alarm should go off. Turn the key to unlock the door, and the alarm should stop sounding. Try each of the three lock cylinders to see what's what. The alarm will prevent the car from starting, so check that out.
Next, check for spark & fuel injector pulse. Spark check can be done with an extra spark plug or an inductive timing light. FI pulse can be checked with a noid light. You may have none, one, the other or both. That will give you a good idea where to check next.
Engine ground - Located underneath the car. It goes from the 'frame' to the bottom of the block.
Ground strap - Yours looks like a dog has been chewing on it. If the motor is cranking strongly, it's likely ok, but I'd replace it anyway.
The thing in the back, under the rubber cap/cover is your fuel tank. The cap isn't a 'coil', but the outlet and level sender. That round cover is supposed to unscrew so you can access the fuel level sender and in-tank strainer (some cars have a pump there, but I don't think yours does).
Unhooked brown wire is a ground. In these cars, brown is always ground.
The weird looking plug near the airbox is a test port. It attaches to a piece of equipment nobody has ever seen in person. Cap it if you have something that will work.
Enough for now. Check out the alarm, test for spark & FI pulse, clean the CE panel. That should keep you busy for a bit.