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I've attached some images here for reference.
Some of these things look odd to me, so i thought i would share with the experts!
This is the bent up relay i found. it rattled sometimes when i shook it.
is how my fusebox now looks. There was some really weird relay in one place with what looked like a fuse holder in the top with \
"test" written on it. I have no idea what the 2 extra fuse holders are for, on has a fuse in, the other doesnt.
This was my rear hatch area, (the button to auto release doesnt work) This brown wire wasnt connected to anything, probably why it doesnt work, but i couldnt see anywhere to plug into.
is the state of my ground battery strap. i've no cleaned up all the connections although the battery is on charge inside so i havnt tried it all again yet. A little damage, but dsoesnt look severe? (to my noob eyes)
I've no idea what this thing is, ignition coil or something? its next to the spare wheel well, i hosed all the connections with WD40, nothing looked bad. the rubber cap doesnt seal very well (if at all)
found these wires next to the battery well half hidden in the trim panel. connections looked ok so i left them. any idea what they are for?
If the problem is related to the UK dampness then I would think the issue is most likely not connected to your ground points but nonetheless they obviously need to be sound- have you inspected the engine ground strap and the main battery earth strap under the insulation?
For sure it sounds like you have an electrical issue- suggest you check the voltage at the hot post when cranking. The other major problem on all 928's is the condition of the engine wiring harness and specifically the condition of the power feeders. Take a look at the area around the hot post inside the engine bay. Take a look at the condition of the insulation of the wires running into the connector from the engine bay and the specifically the condition of the power cable running into the hot post. You may find find the insulation looks very sad and often is cracked exposing the cores. If still original the cable will look a grubby brown whereas in fact it is red when new.
Another small point to check is the cap on both the ignition coils. there is a cut out on the cap and sometimes they get replaced with the cutout on the top side- this allows water in and then it cannot drain out. Another prime suspect is the ignition cables- classic test is to check them visibly in the dark to see if there is electrical leakage but given the motor is not running that would be difficult. You should also check the MAF connector and what is underneath the rubber boot.
On a separate minor detail detail your ignition system is controlled by an "EZ" unit or so I understand. The EZK version is fitted to the S4 and later models with the K signifying knock control..If by any chance you do have EZK that would be an interesting snippet of info.
There are no shortage of areas that could cause problems of this nature and doubtless the chaps will chime in with many other suggestions.
If the problem is related to the UK dampness then I would think the issue is most likely not connected to your ground points but nonetheless they obviously need to be sound- have you inspected the engine ground strap and the main battery earth strap under the insulation?
For sure it sounds like you have an electrical issue- suggest you check the voltage at the hot post when cranking. The other major problem on all 928's is the condition of the engine wiring harness and specifically the condition of the power feeders. Take a look at the area around the hot post inside the engine bay. Take a look at the condition of the insulation of the wires running into the connector from the engine bay and the specifically the condition of the power cable running into the hot post. You may find find the insulation looks very sad and often is cracked exposing the cores. If still original the cable will look a grubby brown whereas in fact it is red when new.
Another small point to check is the cap on both the ignition coils. there is a cut out on the cap and sometimes they get replaced with the cutout on the top side- this allows water in and then it cannot drain out. Another prime suspect is the ignition cables- classic test is to check them visibly in the dark to see if there is electrical leakage but given the motor is not running that would be difficult. You should also check the MAF connector and what is underneath the rubber boot.
On a separate minor detail detail your ignition system is controlled by an "EZ" unit or so I understand. The EZK version is fitted to the S4 and later models with the K signifying knock control..If by any chance you do have EZK that would be an interesting snippet of info.
There are no shortage of areas that could cause problems of this nature and doubtless the chaps will chime in with many other suggestions.
Thanks for that! I'm doing the battery ground strap, but i cannot find where the engine ground strap is. i had a thread of ground point pictures but cant find that one now. will keep looking.
You will have to excuse me, What is the "hot post, i shall have a look for it, but i'm unsure what im looking for.
Will check my coil caps, although i THINK they looked in GC, will double check the cut outs though.
I do apologise, EZ, i assumed was the same as EZK so is probably just a mistake on my part.
Will have to work out where that MAF connector is!
Thanks for that! I'm doing the battery ground strap, but i cannot find where the engine ground strap is. i had a thread of ground point pictures but cant find that one now. will keep looking.
You will have to excuse me, What is the "hot post, i shall have a look for it, but i'm unsure what im looking for.
Will check my coil caps, although i THINK they looked in GC, will double check the cut outs though.
I do apologise, EZ, i assumed was the same as EZK so is probably just a mistake on my part.
Will have to work out where that MAF connector is!
No doubt i will be back with loads of pictures
You are doing just fine for 4 posts and for sure no apologies needed for anything- we have all been there previously- trust me and we keep on learning!
The "hot post" is in the engine bay and is live at all times- hence the name. I presume that on UK RHD models it is still on the right hand side of the engine bay [just as it is on LHD variants] and should be covered by a plastic shroud held in place by a brown covered cap. Power is routed from the battery, the starter motor, over to the alternator and then to the hot post. From the hot post the cables then enter the front wiring loom and back to the central electrics located under the wooden cover in the passenger side footwell.. All that being said, I would not be too surprised if that cable run sits on the other side of the engine bay on RHD models. When you find the post take a pic and post it showing the cable entering from the engine side of the post. Also look at the cables entering the 14 pin connector [that is located just behind the hot post] from the engine side.
Sorting out electrical gremlins is a PITA- let's just hope you strike it lucky early on. It gets really fun when previous owners have been dicking aound with Hi Fi and alarms and no wiring diagrams to show what they have done. Invariably you will need access to the wiring diagrams for your model year. Our resident electrical expert [Alan] has a website that is upcoming and has some excellent resources on it.
The main ground strap has a tendency to fret at the point where they enter the mounting lugs at either end. To see it you need to pull back the shrink sleeve cover where you may well find frayed strands and/or badly oxidised copper. As a stop gap one can flow some solder into the damaged area but the only real answer is a new strap- Roger [928SRUS.com] does an upgraded version at reasonable $$$'s. The engine earth strap on my LHD 928 is located to the rear of the engine on the passenger side where it crosses over to the chassis - you need to be under the car to see it.
You are doing just fine for 4 posts and for sure no apologies needed for anything- we have all been there previously- trust me and we keep on learning!
The "hot post" is in the engine bay and is live at all times- hence the name. I presume that on UK RHD models it is still on the right hand side of the engine bay [just as it is on LHD variants] and should be covered by a plastic shroud held in place by a brown covered cap. Power is routed from the battery, the starter motor, over to the alternator and then to the hot post. From the hot post the cables then enter the front wiring loom and back to the central electrics located under the wooden cover in the passenger side footwell.. All that being said, I would not be too surprised if that cable run sits on the other side of the engine bay on RHD models. When you find the post take a pic and post it showing the cable entering from the engine side of the post. Also look at the cables entering the 14 pin connector [that is located just behind the hot post] from the engine side.
Sorting out electrical gremlins is a PITA- let's just hope you strike it lucky early on. It gets really fun when previous owners have been dicking aound with Hi Fi and alarms and no wiring diagrams to show what they have done. Invariably you will need access to the wiring diagrams for your model year. Our resident electrical expert [Alan] has a website that is upcoming and has some excellent resources on it.
The main ground strap has a tendency to fret at the point where they enter the mounting lugs at either end. To see it you need to pull back the shrink sleeve cover where you may well find frayed strands and/or badly oxidised copper. As a stop gap one can flow some solder into the damaged area but the only real answer is a new strap- Roger [928SRUS.com] does an upgraded version at reasonable $$$'s. The engine earth strap on my LHD 928 is located to the rear of the engine on the passenger side where it crosses over to the chassis - you need to be under the car to see it.
Cheers for that.
I've been out hunting for this "hot post" but i cant find it. is there an image of one on here somewhere? I think i found the 14 pin connector housing at the front of the bay, near the bonnet catch. that was all intact, no manky bits there. even had a plastic cover.
i will have to peel back my strap cover to have a look. i didnt think of that!
I shall post some pictures of things i'm unsure of...
Engine bay, just found an old jubilee clip laying down near the floor. probably from when they did the cam belt a couple weeks ago. not cool. Also the paints flaking off due to corrosion on those air inlets. thats on my to do list now.
I found this connector with nothing attached in the passenger side engine bay under the air inlet tubes in the back corner. seems to have 2 pins. i couldnt find anything that was flopping around that would plug into it. should i cap this off?
found these connections (and a ground point) under a flap next to battery box/well. Ive since cleaned up the ground point. the other bits looked tidy, so i've left them. are they standard?
I've this weird gap under my bonnet (hood to our american friends) that i cant seem to get fully straight. I'm going to bet this is where my water/rain ingress is. i will put some rubber strips in until i can fathom out how to sort it permanently.
This thing is beside my headlight, it looks a bit manky. I'm guessing its to do with the headlight motor. I am probably very wrong.(round thing with wires coming out)
pics of the caps. no slots up top as far as i'm aware. seems OK to my untrained eye.
This one is strange, a little button that comes out (i've a feeling it shouldnt) I would guess this is my bonnet light switch. here it is just sliding out. should i tighten this up so it cant?
Seems i've found it without realising what it was! took the cover off, (it does have one) more hot pot area and a bit more
Cheers for that.
I've been out hunting for this "hot post" but i cant find it. is there an image of one on here somewhere? I think i found the 14 pin connector housing at the front of the bay, near the bonnet catch. that was all intact, no manky bits there. even had a plastic cover.
i will have to peel back my strap cover to have a look. i didnt think of that!
I shall post some pictures of things i'm unsure of...
The item that is a common cause of no starts is the CPS- crank position sensor- if that thing fails it is game set and match until you fit a new one. It can be tested but as far as I know it can only be done meaningfully with a scope. This item is mounted on the topside of the bell housing.
If it loads OK, a pic of the hot post and 14 pin connector with the cover removed.
The item that is a common cause of no starts is the CPS- crank position sensor- if that thing fails it is game set and match until you fit a new one. It can be tested but as far as I know it can only be done meaningfully with a scope. This item is mounted on the topside of the bell housing.
If it loads OK, a pic of the hot post and 14 pin connector with the cover removed.
Thanks for that! seems i found it on my most recent "fumbling"session. it looked a bit old in there but no obvious breaks or anything.
this "CPS" sounds worrying, although it it was that, i don't think my alarm would be going off also when i tried to start? Again, im the noob so to be fair i have no idea really what i'm talking about
a frayed looking wire cover in the drivers side corner, looks like the casings broken but no other issues. note: this is the side opposite to my bonnet gap. another pic of the same
Also i found this (hole) i've zoomed in on the next picture a zoomed in pic. should this be capped off or connected to something?
Are you sure that is an 86 motor? I thought they were all 32 valve jobs by then unless the UK was different- that looks like a 16V motor with the twin dizzy [1984 vintage?]
The bulging bonnet issue could be caused by fitting the wrong struts. The tail gate struts are much stronger spring resistance to hold the heavier tailgate and if fitted to the bonnet will cause it to bow like that. Disconnect the struts and see how it sits when disconnected- just be careful where things are left lying!
Are you sure that is an 86 motor? I thought they were all 32 valve jobs by then unless the UK was different- that looks like a 16V motor with the twin dizzy [1984 vintage?]
The bulging bonnet issue could be caused by fitting the wrong struts. The tail gate struts are much stronger spring resistance to hold the heavier tailgate and if fitted to the bonnet will cause it to bow like that. Disconnect the struts and see how it sits when disconnected- just be careful where things are left lying!
Pretty sure its an 86. i believe it is indeed a 16v
Will check that strut issue when i've a helping hand later! genius. many thanks!
Pretty sure its an 86. i believe it is indeed a 16v
Will check that strut issue when i've a helping hand later! genius. many thanks!
A bit of history checking suggests you are spot on about the year so maybe the UK were not given any of the early 32 valve models and they limited those to Uncle Sam.- As I think about it I also have a feeling John Speake's 928 is a 1986- I know it is a 16 valver.
The bonnet strut knowledge had nothing to do with genius- just that I was dumb enough to try fitting somewhat knackered rear struts but they still overpowered the hood. I doubt the gap would make much difference as there are no seals there which is why it is important for the caps on the ignition coils [not the dizzies] to be fitted correctly and also the hot post cover.
Your bonnet switch has faired better than mine - it disintegrated a few months ago so I removed it for the time being- I have no safety issues as my fan kit is fully enclosed unlike the stock S4 fans. You have a mechanical fan plus the auxiliary one in front of the a/c condenser.
I understand your model has a CPS albeit perhaps some difference in spec.
Now if you look at the hot post you will see that the cable entering it is brownish. To be fair it looks better than many but I would think it is original fitment and if you were to flex it you may see insulation dropping off. Se the thread about the fire damaged 928 Carl posted!
Purchasing a 928 is the easy bit- getting it running as Porsche intended and keeping it that way is a whole different ball game! As soon as you can get under the car and take a look at the leads running from the starter motor to the alternator and alternator to the hot post. The cables entering the 14 pin connector look to be in surprisingly good condition. If you can take a detailed close up of where the cables enter the plug from the engine side. Pin 14 on that plug contains a 4mm2 yellow cable- that carries the juice to the solenoid that throws out the drive mechanism.and energises the motor- that also needs to be in good nick albeit it is only energised when starting of course. I take it your motor is cranking but not firing..
A corroded strap. The source of all my issues? I’m replacing this today with a new one from the local car shop!
Originally Posted by C531XHO
Start with the basics. Do you have a spark at the plug. Do you have fuel...
David
85 S2 x 2
the answer was yes to these questions the other day, but this time I need to check again. With the alarm buggering about I assumed I could rule these out.
03-04-2019, 05:08 AM
1986 (UK) S2 non start issue.
