However on non-S4's there is no Center pull bracket upfront at the water pump, so you need both else you will be twisting the Engine from one side, IMO

Dave K

 

I used those on my 1991 years ago, when I did the motor mounts, steering rack and a few other things while I was in there. They worked great.

 

Lifting at the front yoke on the S4+ cars transfers extra weigh to the transmission mounts. It's quite possible the same effect is seen when lifting the engine in the earlier cars, or by the ears at the corners in the late cars. To limit damage to the trans mounts from the extra loads, I added shims between the gearbox and the cross-member after gently lifting the gearbox a bit, all before the weight comes off the engine mounts in front. This little step takes minutes before you lift the rear of the car onto stands, and can easily save you a few $hundred in trans mount costs if you forget.

 

dr bob, shims sound like a great idea; in addition, would it help to lift/support motor at a point more towards the firewall? or carry on with the suggested location?

 

I replaced the transmission mounts as part of refreshing what I think of as the "engine and driveline suspension". They work together and both ends needed new mounts. First did the motor mounts, then the trans mounts.

 

The front hoop bracket is fine.

 

^^^^^thanks

 

Since I did mine in what was normally my woodworking shop, I decided to make a proper furniture-quality version, with curved and padded fender supports. No nearby HF at the time.

Someone gave me an important warning: lifting the engine too far can mangle unseen stuff in the rear, including the O2 sensor, if I recall.

 

Nice job Curt. I did something similar. Two support bars and not nearly as pretty.
Good luck,
Dave