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I now have a small bunch of these eccentrics turned out in the lathe, 83 in fact, and am still waiting for the rest of the tooling to make the jig to use to drill the small crossways hole in all of them. I haven't been able to get the mill head apart to see what is wrong with it, but I think I can fix the Quill in a position that will work with the X, Y, and Z movements of the mil table to make the jig, and maybe even to finish up the several Belly Pans that still need some milled adjustment slots before I can ship them. I'll try to get to that tomorrow.
[QUOTE=esharon;19008977]@Mrmerlin - thank you for the quick response! you are probably right... just emailed Jerry and asked him to post to this thread if he is interested.
As FYI - I see some sites now point me to the Lever ($86). Perhaps it now comes with the Eccentric? I'll contact Roger today and ask (have a few other bits I need anyway).[/QUOT
Eran, where is the Lever available for $86 bucks
My bit for the hole through the center of these measures about .395 , but for some reason it only drills a hole at .3905. I think I am going to need to ream all of these out to 10mm, so I have ordered a couple of chucking reamers to do that with, if needed. What I would like is to have one of the levers with the shaft so I can test some of mine.
Last edited by Jerry Feather; 09-27-2023 at 03:56 PM.
After three aborted tries at making a drill guide for drilling the cross-hole I have succeeded at least well enough to get the job done. I learned a couple of things in the process.
I now have about 125 or 130 of these eccentrics turned out in my lathe and about 6 of them cross drilled with my final drill guide.
I did finally find the part and the price there, but now I can't find any way to actually buy it from them, assuming that they actually have it.
Then I finally found it and sent the money. Let's see if they ever send me one.
jerry, I was told the eccentric is NLA. The price might be for the lever or the entire assembly (I would be surprised given the cost but hey, I’ve been wrong before. Many times). I’m still down for the eccentric if you have a finished one (I already bought everything else on/for that shaft).
Thank you for all your help!
jerry, I was told the eccentric is NLA. The price might be for the lever or the entire assembly (I would be surprised given the cost but hey, I’ve been wrong before. Many times). I’m still down for the eccentric if you have a finished one (I already bought everything else on/for that shaft).
Thank you for all your help!
The NLA of the eccentric is of course what started me down this rabbit hole. I just turned 7 more of these in my lathe and am close to being able to send some of these out as promised to some of you; or to any of you for that matter. The last thing I am pretty sure I need to do is to ream the central hole out a bit. Early on when I was first drilling them in the lathe I tried to put one of the drilled ones over the bit that I drilled it with and it would only go about a third of the way and then was going to take a great deal of force to put it all the way on. Since then I have miked the hole and it is only .391 inch, but the bit I drilled the holes with mikes out at about .395 inch. I have been very puzzled about how a drill bit can drill a hole smaller that the bit is.
I am pretty sure that the handle with the shaft in it has the shaft right at 10mm or .394 inch. These eccentrics that I have made so far will not go over that I am pretty sure. So I have ordered a couple of 10mm chucking reamers that I'll use to ream these holes out a bit, but I really need the handle and shaft to be sure about this. That is why I am trying to buy the handle with the shaft.
Then I finally figured out how the bit can drill the holes in these pieces smaller. That is because the pieces are made out of plastic and I am pretty sure that in the process of drilling the plastic, which is turned down to pretty thin, it is stretching a tiny bit. Then the sides of the bit do not actually cut anything so as the piece is forced over it they stay stretched until the bit is pulled out. Since a reamer will cut mostly on the sides rather than at the nose I am pretty sure I can open up these holes fairly easily, assuming that they need to be, when I check with a handle and shaft.
Last edited by Jerry Feather; 10-01-2023 at 03:12 PM.
While I am waiting for some things to come together on this little project I got a wild idea about how I might get the bit to drill a slightly larger hole in these eccentrics. I decided to drill the hole first while the body of the material I am working with is full size (.9") and see if that might limit the slight expansion that I think is going on with material in the drilling. It didn't help; but turning these in kind of the opposite direction does kind of break up the monotony.
Eran is sending me his handle with the shaft on it so I can see just what might still be needed with the hole thru them. The holes that I have thru these pieces so far measures, with a bit of pressure to overcome what might be some microscopic roughness, right at .392". The nose of the bit measures .396". 10 mm comes out to .3937", so if I am right about the shaft at 10 mm I am going to need to take about 1 thou " off of the wall of each hole that I have drilled.
If it goes there I have been wondering just how I am going to do the reaming. The logical approach would be to chuck the piece in the lathe and then run the reamer thru it. I don't want to do that since the chuck will collapse the piece a little. So I thought that I would chuck the reamer in the chuck and by hand push the piece over it and then pull it back off again. That concerns me both about using my hand to do the action but also about cutting the hole twice with the reamer. Then I think I have finally decided that if the shank of the reamer is long enough, I will put two or three of the pieces over the shank and then chuck it in the lathe and then turn the lathe on and simply pull each one off over the cutting edges by hand.
Of course all of this depends on just how my expectations turn out about the size of the hole in the first place.
Last edited by Jerry Feather; 10-03-2023 at 03:29 PM.
Rob E., In the picture that you posted above in post 41 what I have come to refer to as the "wheel' is in fact what looks like an off the shelf roller bearing, and as Paul points out, it also has the bearing number(s) on it. Can you read those numbers for us and or post a very close-up picture of both the bearing and its inner race shown right next to it. It will be interesting and useful if that can be sourced fairly readily in the course of working up the issues with this adjustment mechanism.
Last edited by Jerry Feather; 10-08-2023 at 12:46 AM.
I have several things on my mind right now about this little project. First I have nearly filled my little peanut jug with turned eccentrics waiting to be cross drilled and possibly reamed out a bit. I have refined my process to tighten up my tolerance, so I might very well be throwing out a bunch of them that are not close enough to the measurements. On the other hand I think I have found in further study of this and the other thread that pretty much tolerance in the eccentric may very well be tolerated.
The handle that Eran has mailed to me in now in town but it did not get here until yesterday and was late enough not to be put out for delivery. I am sure that it will be delivered tomorrow.
I received another of the 10mm reamers that I had ordered, but I find that so far neither of the ones that measure out a bit larger than the holes I have drilled will actually ream out much, if any, but they do seem to kind of "rub" out a bit, maybe about half a thou.
I have been a bit disappointed that more of the 928 guys have not raised their hand for one of these eccentrics when they are done. I now think that that is because I have decided that even if the eccentric is broken in half, as Rob's is and I think Eran's, they will still function adequately. I think in fact that the eccentric can be two pieces to start with. I also think that a modification to this system could very well be to press a bronze bushing into the eye bolt that holds the bottom end of the shaft, because that is really all the smaller cylinder on the eccentric is doing, and then simply leave the smaller part of the eccentric off of it.
Another thought I have about up-grading the early system to the later one is, rather than replace the handle and shaft I would simply take the original one and drill and tap a hole up into the end of the shaft and then simply screw a washer/stop onto the end of the shaft to hold it in place and with enough 10mm washers to take up the slack. I think the main failure of the original design was/is simply the propensity to be able with a slight jerk on the handle to pull it out of the eye bolt and have the roller fall on the floor of the car.
Something else I am working on is a procedure for assembling this entire mechanism. That is going to involve first loosening the nut on the end of the eye bolt that holds the bottom end of the shaft, then putting the components together in a sequence which I have not finalized yet, since I don't yet quite understand the spring that holds the eccentric in place, and which appears to have one or two additional functions that I don't understand. At the end of the procedure, with the handle in the up position, the nut on the eye bolt will then be snugged up to lock the Steering wheel and Pod in place. Then with the handle rotated down the eccentric will release the pressure and the tilt adjustment can be made.
Last edited by Jerry Feather; 10-12-2023 at 11:08 AM.
09-22-2023, 10:42 AM
