hacker-pschorr

There are different variations of the 20v Dewalt line. I have this one, removes all 24 lugs on my Denali torqued to 140 ft/lbs & the axle nut at 180 ft/lbs without breaking a sweat, on the same battery charge:

https://www.dewalt.com/products/powe...l-bare/dcf899b

Petza914

I have the Craftsman C3 19.2 v impact gun. Works well enough for general use. Usually I'm in the garage and use my Chicago pneumatic air gun with the compressor.

For stuck rotor retaining screws the manual impact with a hammer is the right tool though, not a power one. Once I get them out, I replace them with stainless versions that have Marine Grade anti-seize applied, lightly torquing them down.

Next time, they come out easy-peasy.

hacker-pschorr

That's not a bad idea, but I just opt out from installing them at all. So we can now start that debate all over again

awilli6

Wisconsin Joe

Yeah, that's the "Big'un". Similar in size & power to my friend's Milwaukee. Does the torque from the motor make the whole thing twist in your hand when you hit the trigger without it even being on a bolt?

Drill it. Go a bit bigger than the shaft of the screw, go slow and basically take the head off. The rotor will come off and you have access to the shaft of the screw.
It may just spin out.

You may or may not have that experience.

dr bob

If you have access to left-handed drill bits, you'll find that the screws will often come out with just the drill bit. If not, the tapered head will come off with the drill and you'll be able to lift the rotor off the hub. That will leave about 1/4" of the screw sticking out, so you can grab that with a vise-grip and turn it out of the hat.

The stainless option always sounds good, but stainless is pretty soft compared with good carbon steel. As several state, putting whatever screw you install back in with good anti-seize and gentle torque is key. The only purpose of the screws is to hold stuff together for assembly, and to keep crud from dropping between the hat and the hub. Put some anti-seize on that junction after you clean it, including the centering ring area, and the rotor will come off easily when you need it to later.

----

I have a collection of impact guns and drivers, and tend to use the lighter battery-operated driver (a Makita) as a nut runner when it comes to lug nuts. It will remove correctly-installed lug nuts with Porsche/Toyota/Honda 94 lbs/ft torque on them, but not a lot more. There are bigger battery-operated and corded electric impact guns, and I don't have a use for them yet. I use a very vintage Blue-Point air ratchet that maxes out at about 35 lbs/ft of torque, mostly for disassembly jobs. It won't break bolts loose bigger than 10mm, and most smaller stuff needs to be loosened initially by hand before the air motor spins them out the rest of the way. That, with the anti-seize and a torque wrench for installing stuff like this, makes working on the car a lot easier.

Tangent: I took K's 4Runner to Costco to have the TPMS sensors replaced. When I picked the car up, the service manager gave me a lecture about ow they had to carefully remove the anti-seize I'd carefully applied to the lug studs and the centering ring. I suffered patiently through his lecture, then let him know that I'd take care of it when I got home. He said it had already been taken care of. I said I'd take care of his "taking care of it", and that I'd be sure they had my phone number on future work orders so they could call me and ask before they did anything stupid like that again. He had a room full of other customers so it was inappropriate to further educate him there. Seems that lots of places don't believe in using anti-seize on fasteners and assemblies that really need it. For many of us, that's why we do the work ourselves, or trust the work only to folks who have the same level of care.
.

Adk46

This photo may suggest a problem I have, just the tip of the iceberg. I painted the socket for 928 lug nuts red.

dr bob

It's not a problem. It's not a problem. It's not a problem.

The first stage is denial.

---

New neighbor came by and wandered through the workbay on her way home, at my request.. Gathered up a spare battery maintainer and extension cord to help her parked-but-not-winter-stored E55 AMG. She was wowed by the things in places and places for things. I'm running low on places for things, and consider that the threshold for deciding there are "enough" tools. I hate to get into a project and have to derail while I have to shop for a tool. Or worse, have to kluge something to work when I know the perfect tool exists someplace else.

All that said, I bow to the master specialty tool collector Rob Edwards. So long as my addiction stays below 24% of his, I'm comfortable saying it's a habit rather than an affliction.

STRIKEMASTER

I picked up a Kawasaki 1/2"-12V impact wrench kit from PepBoys for about $50... A REAL impact wrench, Max Torque 280 Lbs ( so it says)..Plugs into ther lighter socket..Works great!!!

karl ruiter

Some options I have:
A 1/2" big Dewalt corded impact wrench, about 350ft-lbs
A Milwaukee M12 impact driver, about 80 ft-lbs
A 3/8" Milwaukee M12 impact wrench, rated about 200 ft-lbs

I this case I would probably start with the M12 impact driver as I feel like it delivers a harder axial hit, which is good for screws. For general use on M6-M12 bolts, I like the M12 wrench as it is very compact and pretty capable. Recently I bent the hell out of a 1/2" break bar trying to get my crank bolt out. In that case only the big corded wrench would do it, and I had to pull radiator and condenser to fit it in there.

But if you have a drill, you can just drill them out.

dr bob

Followup:
I drove K's 4Runner on an errand, and noticed a pretty significant amount of 'wander' in the steering. Hmmm. Needed to 'un-rotate' at least the fronts to get them back to where they should be. For grins I tried the Makita battery impact on one of the front lugnuts, and found that it wouldn't budge with the torque the Costco guys had used with dry studs.. The calculated clamping with the anti-seized studs and down-rated torque is fine for the little Makita, but not enough with dry studs and "that's not going anywhere!" torque the shop guys had used. There's a lesson buried in here somewhere, probably that shop guys use the zip gun and then the torque wrench to make sure the wheels aren't going to fall off. I use mine to limit he applied torque and manage the clamping force, limiting lug bolt stretch along the way. I was a little disappointed the Makita didn't take the nuts off. Better to learn in the comfort and relative safety of the workbay than the side of the road somewhere.

The moral is surely that you'll want to get one of the bigger battery impact guns if you are planning to use it for more than 100 lbs/ft breakaway. The little 18V LXT Makita won't be enough.