Glovebox Door Surface Warping
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Glovebox Door Surface Warping
Just started a big interior job on the 86.5.
One of the side jobs will require dealing with the glove box lid. It’s been warped since I got the car ten years ago.
What options do I have here?
Can it be heated, re-bonded, re-shaped?
This was a New England car based on history I got, but it has this type of issues here, tips of A-pillars, and even the interior rear headliner — which I assume is from sun and heat?
One of the side jobs will require dealing with the glove box lid. It’s been warped since I got the car ten years ago.
What options do I have here?
Can it be heated, re-bonded, re-shaped?
This was a New England car based on history I got, but it has this type of issues here, tips of A-pillars, and even the interior rear headliner — which I assume is from sun and heat?
#2
Pro
I repaired mine with urethane glue and 2" spring clamps. Be sure to put a stiff strip of wood between the clamps,( maybe 5 or 6 clamps ) and the face of the glove box to prevent any uneven pressure and possible ripple or denting. Mine has none and looks new, still good after several years.
#3
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I repaired mine with urethane glue and 2" spring clamps. Be sure to put a stiff strip of wood between the clamps,( maybe 5 or 6 clamps ) and the face of the glove box to prevent any uneven pressure and possible ripple or denting. Mine has none and looks new, still good after several years.
Many thanks and have a good holiday.
I will try and post some pics afterwards.
#4
Rennlist Member
I repaired mine with urethane glue and 2" spring clamps. Be sure to put a stiff strip of wood between the clamps,( maybe 5 or 6 clamps ) and the face of the glove box to prevent any uneven pressure and possible ripple or denting. Mine has none and looks new, still good after several years.
On my car, I needed to completely detach the face from the frame, clean the surfaces, then reglue.
Good luck,
Dave
#5
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
This might work, depending on the condition of the bonding surfaces. As mentioned above, be sure to protect the glove box exterior surface with a wide sheet of wood, plywood or something, maybe 5" x 16" or so. Otherwise you may leave a pressure mark when clamping.
On my car, I needed to completely detach the face from the frame, clean the surfaces, then reglue.
Good luck,
Dave
On my car, I needed to completely detach the face from the frame, clean the surfaces, then reglue.
Good luck,
Dave
I’m committed now one way or the other
#7
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Strangely related, but I've noticed the new conversational assessment from the air-coolers I run into is that we are "brave men" for working on a 928...
I guess that's better than the old days when they just looked either confused or like they had swallowed a cough drop.
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#8
Nordschleife Master
We are. The 928 was the most advanced car of it's time (or at least close to it).
The air-coolers had the same basic design as the (original) Beetle. More advanced, more power, more fun and far cooler, but same basic design.
Very simple. Reliable and tough, but nowhere near the complexity of the 928.
The air-coolers had the same basic design as the (original) Beetle. More advanced, more power, more fun and far cooler, but same basic design.
Very simple. Reliable and tough, but nowhere near the complexity of the 928.