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Old 12-16-2018, 03:39 PM
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sprio
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Default Pod/cluster connections

Now that I'm retired, it's finally time to do some work on my 87. First task: replacing the broken odometer gear. This is the first time I've really done any type of work on the car, so I used the many write-ups as a guide. (Search is my friend!)

Got everything apart yesterday, replaced the broken gear, and reassembled. Started the car, pulled out to the road for a quick test, and no speedometer or tachometer. Dead.

I did break one of the locking tabs off the connectors when taking things apart, but thought I got everything seated firmly. I'll dive back into it this afternoon, but before I do, a couple of questions:

First, does the broken tab prevent the connection from firmly seating?
Next, like a dummy, I didn't mark the connectors when I took them apart. Is it possible I switched the two on the ignition key side? If I did, wouldn't it create more problems than just the speedo/tach?
Last, is there anything else I should look at when I dive into it again, other than making sure those connections are firm?

Thanks!
Old 12-16-2018, 05:14 PM
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beran earms
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Hey Bruce, sorry to hear your results were not as good as you hoped. I have nothing to add for help but was wondering with all your searching, what was the most useful info you found regarding this procedure? Looks like I'm next.
Thanks for any info.
Old 12-16-2018, 06:43 PM
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sprio
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Most useful was Dwayne's thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...cs-part-i.html
Old 12-16-2018, 06:47 PM
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Wisconsin Joe
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I used Dwayne's writeup too. It was complete and clear.

I had a broken locking lever when I first opened mine up. I think I used a little zip tie to hold it in place.

Make sure all of the contacts are clean. I use DeOxit.

Make sure all of the connections between the gauges and the plastic circuit board are good,
You might check continuity along the board traces too. Flexing the board can break them.
Old 12-16-2018, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Wisconsin Joe
I used Dwayne's writeup too. It was complete and clear.

I had a broken locking lever when I first opened mine up. I think I used a little zip tie to hold it in place.

Make sure all of the contacts are clean. I use DeOxit.

Make sure all of the connections between the gauges and the plastic circuit board are good,
You might check continuity along the board traces too. Flexing the board can break them.
Good advice - thanks. I did clean and DeOxit all the contacts before reassembling (bonus - my instrument lights are brighter!). Sounds like I'll have to go back in and re-check everything. Because this was my first time, I suspect the board was flexed (not too badly) as I struggled to get things lined up and back together, so will have to look at that.
Old 12-16-2018, 09:08 PM
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beran earms
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Thanks for the info guys. Roughly how involved is this job? I'm up for most anything but this seems really tedious and worried about parts winging everywhere. About how long to do a thorough job, once?
Old 12-17-2018, 10:56 AM
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I didn't track my time, but would guess a couple of hours from start to finish - the first time. I was slow and methodical in my process, and putting it back together/reinstalling was fiddly until I figured it out. Next effort, I should have the the pod off in 10 minutes, now that I know where to look for things.

Good luck, and keep Dwayne's guide handy.
Old 12-17-2018, 06:59 PM
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Wisconsin Joe
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Thorough job of what?

Replacing the odo gear or just pulling the cluster and cleaning everything?
Although, to thoroughly clean everything isn't much less of a job.

If you've never done it before, plan on a full day. It shouldn't take anywhere near that long, but I prefer to not be rushed in any way.
Having done it a few times, I can get the pod & cluster out in 15 min, back in in about 20.
Dwayne covers the part about the 'bolt assembly' that goes around the ignition switch. Getting that right is probably the hardest part about the pod R&R.

The cluster itself is not all that hard. Small detailed work, and getting the odo apart & back with the new gear is a bit 'fiddly'.

Read through the writeup a few times. Take pics at each step.
I use an ice cube tray for all the screws, bulbs and other things. I make a grid on a piece of paper and write down what went in each spot.
An egg carton works well too.

Take your time, look it over before each step. As you take it apart, think about how it will go back together. Make any notes you think might be helpful.

Note: Most of the above applies to just about any job on any car.

Also, make sure you disconnect the battery. There's stuff in there that is hot all the time. Letting the smoke out of the wires and components often makes for a pretty spark show, but it's expensive to get the smoke put back.
Old 12-23-2018, 03:15 PM
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Thought I'd update this - waited until today to get back at it, as I didn't look forward to being upside down on the floor with a nasty head cold. Anyway, pulled the pod/cluster again this morning, ensured all the connectors were tightly secured, and voila! everything is working as it should.

A happy ending. Merry Christmas!
Old 12-23-2018, 04:18 PM
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Happy endings, especially a day before Christmas, are always nice to hear.

Also, thanks for closing it out.

Waaaaaaaay too many of these issues are left 'hanging', where the OP never posts the final resolution (or lack of).
Old 12-23-2018, 04:22 PM
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Happy ending indeed! And I like the suggestion of the ice cube trays from Joe.
Old 12-23-2018, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by sprio
Thought I'd update this - waited until today to get back at it, as I didn't look forward to being upside down on the floor with a nasty head cold. Anyway, pulled the pod/cluster again this morning, ensured all the connectors were tightly secured, and voila! everything is working as it should.

A happy ending. Merry Christmas!
How long did it take the 2nd time thru?
Old 12-24-2018, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by SwayBar
How long did it take the 2nd time thru?
Less than an hour, start to finish. I was pleased.



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