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I’m in the middle of draining the coolant for the first time so I can do some work on the water bridge. I was able to get the passenger side drain plug out and that has drained. However the driver's side was previously rounded by one of the PO's and my attempts to remove it have made it worse.
It's in there tight! I’m able to get good grip with a visegrip Pliers but it will not budge. The vice grips just turn off the bolt.
I've sprayed it a bunch with PB Blaser and tapped it with a fairly heavy steel hammer. I don't want to hit it too hard for feet of doing some damage to the block.
Thanks for your help in advance!
Last edited by Michael Benno; Dec 1, 2018 at 10:40 PM.
Hi Michael,
See if you can get a two foot long steel pipe over the end of the vice grips with the tightening screw. Make sure it's tight and give it one try warm, and with improved leverage. Also, make sure the vice grips are on just like in your picture, so that the loosening torque squeezes the grip closed, rather than forces it open. I'm amazed how well a cheater bar works.
Good luck,
Dave
One other thing I forgot to mention get a big sledge hammer and hit the bolt head into the sealing washer ,
you wont get much of a swing thats OK,
The weight of the mallet should deform the sealing ring a bit so the plug comes free
I think the vise grips are your best bet. Since its tight up there try routing a ratchet strap around the end of the grip handles and wrap the lose end around the stoutest most structure that ends up pulling on the handle in as close to a 90 degree angle you can get. Then use the ratchet to apply the force to grip handle.
Hi Michael,
See if you can get a two foot long steel pipe over the end of the vice grips with the tightening screw. Make sure it's tight and give it one try warm, and with improved leverage. Also, make sure the vice grips are on just like in your picture, so that the loosening torque squeezes the grip closed, rather than forces it open. I'm amazed how well a cheater bar works.
Hi Dan, the vice grips just turns off of the head. i've tried to grip is a tight as I can, but it still rounds off the head. Heat may be the answer.
Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
will the engine run? if so run it for about 5 mins then use whatever tool you have to loosen the bolt. One other thing I forgot to mention get a big sledge hammer and hit the bolt head into the sealing washer ,you wont get much of a swing thats OK, The weight of the mallet should deform the sealing ring a bit so the plug comes free
Hi Stan, thanks for the tip. I've been hitting it with a fairly heavy mallet and still no dice. The engine will not run as I have drained the coolant and have part of the top end taken apart. Heat seams to be a good tip. Since I can't run the car should I heat it with a heat gun, or is there a good attachment to my torch that I can localize the heat directly on the bolt?
Here are the tools I've been using. I was thinking maybe a smaller pipe-wrench would give me the proper leverage, or maybe a more round jaw vise grips.
I am going to take a break tonight and will hit it with PB blaster and tapping for a day or two while I gather options
well your not going to heat it unless you use a oxy ace torch as the coolant is still in the side your trying to drain,
these blocks absorb lots of heat fast when they have liquid in them,
now if the waterpump is off then that could be enough to drain the block.
With no coolant in the block it will heat up pretty well but it still takes lots applied heat
Had this happen on the 79. Dont heat the bolt head. Heat around the area. Once hot, like really hot, get a spray can / bottle of dry ice with a spray nozzle and spray just the bolt head. Don't forget all the safety sh$t required for this stuff. Put on whatever tool you have and undo. I used a pressure sprayer and got the ice from a gas supplier.
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Need help with mangled drain plug
