Intermittent timing belt warning light
#16
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Some thoughts; I rebuilt my TB and set the kemf tool at dead center of the tool notch (range). The tension light blipped on right about at 1k and never on again after resetting the tension in the same way. Yes, you should be concerned not just about bearings but more about gear teeth wear.
Things to look out for: 1) make sure the tensioner washers are assembled in the same order as original. 2) At the stem (tip) off the tensioner, just ahead of the external spring is a washer (spacer) that likes to fall off as soon you pull the tensioner off the engine. That spacer likes to fall off into your coolant capture pan to become beamed to some other dimension. Make sure your tensioner has that spacer in front of your tensioner spring. You May only need to remove the left side of the belt cover and inspect visually or with a boroscope for that spacer’s presence. To be clear: that spacer is a completely separate part, not attached to the wire, stem or anything. It just looks like a washer.
Good luck!
Things to look out for: 1) make sure the tensioner washers are assembled in the same order as original. 2) At the stem (tip) off the tensioner, just ahead of the external spring is a washer (spacer) that likes to fall off as soon you pull the tensioner off the engine. That spacer likes to fall off into your coolant capture pan to become beamed to some other dimension. Make sure your tensioner has that spacer in front of your tensioner spring. You May only need to remove the left side of the belt cover and inspect visually or with a boroscope for that spacer’s presence. To be clear: that spacer is a completely separate part, not attached to the wire, stem or anything. It just looks like a washer.
Good luck!
#17
Rennlist Member
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Oh my god! Seriously. Oh my god! My stomach is churning, really.
All I can think of is poor soul.
On top of that, my Belt Tension light came on today while I was testing my fuel line upgrade. Sigh.
PS: Is that a .357 Mag cartridge jammed into the gear?
All I can think of is poor soul.
On top of that, my Belt Tension light came on today while I was testing my fuel line upgrade. Sigh.
PS: Is that a .357 Mag cartridge jammed into the gear?
#18
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![](https://scontent-dfw5-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/46350459_10216686894100679_4936687301817270272_n.jpg?_nc_cat=106&_nc_ht=scontent-dfw5-2.xx&oh=27bb573c352ca1d615c5f4ef87a18b52&oe=5C7C26C8)
![](https://scontent-dfw5-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/46463384_10216686899140805_236826231868227584_n.jpg?_nc_cat=111&_nc_ht=scontent-dfw5-2.xx&oh=9183d662f7f2b304742e449518ba58f3&oe=5C73CCFB)
#24
Rennlist Member
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Take the time and effort to remove the gears from the cams and inspect the hub itself that is used to align the gear on the end of the camshaft.
Also check the keyway that holds the hub in position on the end of the cam.
The light will come on during or more likely just after reaching or letting off at high rpm full load.
The belt tension will check good as well. You will suspect the tension warning.
The light comes on at lower and lower rpm/loads until it goes thunk.
If you go too long it will break the gear/hub off the end of the cam and crash all the valves.
Continuing to tighten the belt will make it deteriorate faster because it puts more of a load on the hub/camshaft.
This is the primary reason I would use only the factory belt tensioner/warning system as opposed to an aftermarket tensioner without the tension warning. It lets you know more is wrong than just the belt tension!
Check the hub for cracks in the arms that go out to the 3 holes used to adjust the gear timing, and also the keyway for wear and cracks at the base of the keyway slot.
Also check the keyway that holds the hub in position on the end of the cam.
The light will come on during or more likely just after reaching or letting off at high rpm full load.
The belt tension will check good as well. You will suspect the tension warning.
The light comes on at lower and lower rpm/loads until it goes thunk.
If you go too long it will break the gear/hub off the end of the cam and crash all the valves.
Continuing to tighten the belt will make it deteriorate faster because it puts more of a load on the hub/camshaft.
This is the primary reason I would use only the factory belt tensioner/warning system as opposed to an aftermarket tensioner without the tension warning. It lets you know more is wrong than just the belt tension!
Check the hub for cracks in the arms that go out to the 3 holes used to adjust the gear timing, and also the keyway for wear and cracks at the base of the keyway slot.
#25
Rennlist Member