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1986 S3, TB job - Strange cam gear positions on old setup?

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Old 09-10-2018, 08:17 AM
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paalw
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Default 1986 S3, TB job - Strange cam gear positions on old setup?

Just started my second TB/WP job, so I expected to see something else when checking the cam gear marks on TDC after removing the belt covers. The first time I did the TB I learned that there are 2 revs on the balancer for each rev on the crank, but this time the marks just doesn't line up on any of the positions.

What is going on here? Something I am missing?

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another rev on the balancer:

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Old 09-10-2018, 09:19 AM
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DeWolf
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Where are the notches on the back of the timing gears. Those marks on the front appear to at 45°. Rotate the crank to 45° and see if the red cam dots line up.
Old 09-10-2018, 09:35 AM
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Geza
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Looks to me that your balancer was assembled inside out. Numbers should be readable when looking from the front. Perhaps you'll have to pull if off and reassemble first.
Old 09-10-2018, 09:54 AM
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FredR
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Indeed the harmonic balancer is on the wrong way round.

Pull the damper, install it the correct way round and then rotate the crank until the indicator shows that the crank is at TDC.

If No1 cylinder is on its firing stroke the fingers on both rotor arms will point to the 3 O'clock position.
Old 09-10-2018, 10:09 AM
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paalw
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Thanks Geza and FredR! Not been in the game long enough to spot that one! Didn't know that was possible, but now I do, and I'll never do that mistake for sure I'll turn it around and see if everything lines up better.
Old 09-10-2018, 10:45 AM
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DeWolf
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TDC will be the same no matter which it's on. It only has one keyway so TDC will be in the same spot. The other marks will be reversed. There should be little notches on the back of the cam gears. Where are they?
Old 09-10-2018, 11:41 AM
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FredR
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Originally Posted by DeWolf
TDC will be the same no matter which it's on. It only has one keyway so TDC will be in the same spot. The other marks will be reversed. There should be little notches on the back of the cam gears. Where are they?
If the keyway on the crank is centre lined on TDC then what you say holds. However if that is correct, then the OP has bigger problems because his cam timing would be way out judging from the position of the rotor arms on the photos given the crank is at TDC as indicated on the incorrectly mounted damper.

I have never checked this but then I have never put it back on the wrong way round either. If I get chance later I will take a look at my spare GTS damper.

Last edited by FredR; 09-11-2018 at 03:00 AM. Reason: missed out the word "never"
Old 09-10-2018, 11:46 AM
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Geza
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Originally Posted by DeWolf
TDC will be the same no matter which it's on. It only has one keyway so TDC will be in the same spot. The other marks will be reversed. There should be little notches on the back of the cam gears. Where are they?
Only if the 0 deg mark on the balancer is radially in line with the keyway - if not, TDC will be off by 2 times the offset angle if put on backwards. This appears to be the case, or else the cam timing marks would be lined up, which they are not.

I didn't mention this previously, but, best I can tell, you can get on with the job without switching the balancer now.
1) measure and record the distance between the 0 deg. and 45 deg. mark on the balancer.
2) turn the crank so the cam timing marks are lined up properly - this is TDC
3) place tape over the marks on the balancer
4) mark TDC on the tape using the TDC pointer on the block as the guide
5) create a 45 deg. mark on the tape using the dimension previously recorded. The 45 deg mark will be clockwise of the TDC (0 deg.) mark.
6) carry on using these marks

.
Old 09-10-2018, 07:19 PM
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DeWolf
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Well if it was running clearly it's not as bad as it looks.
Old 09-10-2018, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by DeWolf
TDC will be the same no matter which it's on. It only has one keyway so TDC will be in the same spot. The other marks will be reversed. There should be little notches on the back of the cam gears. Where are they?
the keyway on mine is 90 degrees away from the tdc mark so that probably makes sense here as well
Old 09-10-2018, 07:32 PM
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GregBBRD
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That belt is very new....it still has the white factory part numbers on it.
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Old 09-11-2018, 09:34 AM
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paalw
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I turned the balancer the other way and everything lined up nicely.

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The passenger side gear looked maybe a bit off, I checked it with the porken tool, is this bad? Should I adjust timing now, or with the new belt on? The belt was a bit on the tight side too, so I loosened it to within spec.

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Originally Posted by GregBBRD
That belt is very new....it still has the white factory part numbers on it.
The car has only 36000 miles on it, so the belt might be many years of age. But good to know that it seems like the car has been taken care of. I bought the car with no service records what so ever(typical with cars from Japan), that's why I am going through everything. All fluids, belts, WP, flex plate check, rebuild PS pump(squeeling), fuel lines, PS pressure line etc etc.

I actually got a few fuel lines from you Greg, waiting to go in after the TB job

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.

Last edited by paalw; 09-11-2018 at 09:52 AM.
Old 09-11-2018, 09:47 AM
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FredR
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The 1/4 cam is way off. One bank should be at zero the other at minus 2- can never remember which way round without referring the instructions.

Hopefully you understand how to check the cam belt tension- this has to be done with No1 cylinder at TDC on its firing stroke [i.e. with both rotor arms pointing to the 3 O'clock position.

The cam timing should be done with the old belt or you do it with the new belt and the appropriate stretch allowance as per Ken's instructions with the 32VR tool.

Rgds

Fred
Old 09-11-2018, 01:06 PM
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PorKen
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The 1-4 gear appears to be one tooth off. Check that the distributor rotor holes are roughly centered in the gear slots and restring the belt if necessary before doing any adjustment.
Old 09-11-2018, 02:41 PM
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paalw
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Originally Posted by PorKen
The 1-4 gear appears to be one tooth off. Check that the distributor rotor holes are roughly centered in the gear slots and restring the belt if necessary before doing any adjustment.
Hm, ok will check the rotor holes. Can I confirm if it is really one tooth off just by checking the holes?


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