JeffreyDurbin

My son's '84 has GTS brakes, suspension and wheels retrofitted to it. The problem is that the back tire(s) rub on the top of the wheel well. I got underneath and confirmed that it doesn't need the (3/4") spacer. So we removed that. The problem is that when this was done the wheel bolts had to be extended. I think the obvious correct method is to remove the bottom bolt in the caliper and pivot that out of the way and then remove the rotor and then remove the five long wheel bolts and replace with shorter ones.

Would I be an idiot if I took a hacksaw to the long wheel bolts and cut them down to size for the lug nuts? It's a Sunday and I don't know if I can get the requisite parts today if I don't use a hacksaw to cut these down.

buccicone

Jeff, Don't use a hacksaw. I have had the extra long studs on some of my 928's and have double nutted using an open lug nut first and then using the original nut on top. That usually takes up the extra length .

Rob Edwards

Replacing the rear wheel studs is a big deal, it involves removing the rear hubs and pressing out the old studs and pressing new ones in. In the process you'll be replacing the rear wheel bearings. Major surgery.

I can't advocate for cutting down the rear wheel bolts because you'll not be able to reuse that spacer again. The easiest solution would be to buy a set of open steel lugnuts so you can keep the original, long wheel studs. But they will stick out 3/4". Maybe you could cap them with the original closed lug nuts?

If you do decide to cut down the wheel studs, you'll want to install a nut on the stud being cut so you can then back it off and 'clean' any damaged thread(s) on the end.

JeffreyDurbin

Two VERY good suggestions. I totally agree that having nuts on the bolt to unscrew solves the problem have damaged threads. Damaged threads is why I didn't immediately jump into the task. But I like the open lug nut idea even more. The lug nuts are very deep as it is so putting in an extra 3/4" lug nut to take up the space solves the problem. Now to see if I can buy them locally.

THANK YOU GENTLEMEN!

Rob Edwards

Make sure that the contour of the nuts you get match the mounting seats of the wheels you're mounting. The factory wheels use 'ball' nuts, some aftermarket wheels use conical-seated nuts.

928Intl sells open ball-end steel lug nuts:

http://shop.928intl.com/Open-Steel-L...o/N-020-112-1/

NoVector

Or you could leave the spacers and slightly roll your fenders. Wouldn't be my first choice, but it is an option. https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-for-928s.html

BTW - since your wheels and brakes have been modified, this would be a good time to see if your spare tire (if you have it) fits. A stock 84 collapsible spare will not clear the GTS calipers. Been there, done that. Many have ditched their spare and instead have AAA or slime, etc.

JeffreyDurbin

No spare. We are going to use the space for a subwoofer. I have AAA.

When we had the wheels/tires off I checked the inside of the lip and the top of the wheel well had indeed been rolled slightly but the tires still rubbed occasionally. I think the springs have settled a bit. We REALLY appreciate the insight regarding the open-ended lug nuts. Pep Boys and Advance Auto Parts couldn't help us but O'Reilly's did. I think they were conical and not spherical so we will need to order the correct ones but this gets him operational.

A quick run to O'Reilly's got 10 open-ended lug nuts and a deep socket so we could clear the long bolt. We did the driver side together so I could show Will what we were doing and why and how to do it. He did the passenger side solo including the torque wrench at 95 lbs.


Using the torque wrench to lock down the inner nuts. We didn't bother torquing the outer nuts.

hacker-pschorr

1. Those are S4 brakes off a 1990, not GTS
2. The wheels / spacers have been on that car for 15+ years, if the extent of the rubbing isn't horrible just leave it, or slightly raise the suspension, or drop down to a 1/2" spacer.....
3. Easy fix is cut the head off the aluminum lug nuts.

JeffreyDurbin

Thanks for the guidance about the source of the parts. I'm sure that was listed in the BAT auction and I am too dense to remember.

My son was really annoyed by the rubbing. It's weird when it decides to kick in. When I slid under the car and saw all of the space on the inside of the wheel I don't understand why spacers were ever installed. The upper edge of the wheel well was rolled pretty cleanly so it wasn't chewing up the rubber. But once buccicone and Rob made the point about double-nutting it made it an easy fix. We enjoyed the test drive.

The most important point is that my son really had a sense of accomplishment and has ownership of this car and experience. He's a rock star in high school and not because daddy bought him a nice car. The fact that he understands what he's doing to fix it up makes a lot of difference. One of my best friends bought a 1969 Charger from a farmer in Iowa for $750 decades ago and has entirely tweaked it out with skills he learned from his father. That's what it's about. A newish Honda 2000 won't give a kid that experience.

hacker-pschorr

For aesthetic reasons.

FYI that car is sitting a lot lower than stock too, some would suggest to raise it back to stock to avoid damaging something up front.

JeffreyDurbin

It does look like the back is sagging and that would certainly explain it. My son likes the tires tucked underneath the lips. I proposed we look at adjusting the springs on the rear end so it sits higher but he didn't want to go that route.

We've just started the process. We have lots to do. This was an easy project.

Thanks for your comments and insight.

jpitman2

Old VW lug nuts (M14x1.5) are correct, and should be easy to find. I have a set in my spare.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k

Wisconsin Joe

Lots of people like the 'tires tucked under the lip' look.

Unfortunately, that 'look' is too low.

The front end is likely too low. That results in less than ideal handling.

It also puts the alternator, A/C compressor and oil pan at risk for impact damage. If your motor mounts are squashed, it increases that risk.

And if the A/C compressor or alternator take a good, hard hit, it's entirely possible (probable?) that the block will be damaged, as the attachment points in the block often break too.

Your car your choice. But make an informed choice.

If you want the car that low, make sure the MMs are good. You might also want to invest in a pair of skid plates. 928 Motorsports has them for the early cars. They work well.

JeffreyDurbin

The A/C compressor was removed but certainly the oil pan and alternator are concerns. My son is very careful with it and the roads are really good here in suburban Denver. We are going to get connected from the local 928 club. It'll be good to get some input from them. Thanks for your comments, Joe.

Does anyone know if removing the 3/4" spacers requires a new alignment? We just had it done a month ago before having it shipped from WI.

Wisconsin Joe

It shouldn't.