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Old 10-06-2018 | 07:16 PM
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Starter ring gear teeth. The name is somewhat misleading.
Old 10-06-2018 | 07:52 PM
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So am I the first person that this wasnt obvious to? At least I wont be the only guy to take a clutch out more than once on the same job. Sheesh.
Old 10-06-2018 | 09:32 PM
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Well, I don't know, but the starter ring gear teeth are on the edge of the flywheel, and it's called the 'flywheel lock tool'. It has nothing to do with the pressure plate, or clutch. If the PP and clutch are out, and you still can't lock the flywheel, I'm out of suggestions except for the shade-tree bit on using a pry bar or big bolt. Not sure what else you're expecting?
Old 10-06-2018 | 09:51 PM
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I'm not expecting anything because I'm new on the job
but if I'm saying this correctly, my starter teeth are on the intermediate plate that absolutely has to do with the clutch especially when you take it out and have to put it back to use the flywheel lock tool.

no disrespect here, I am learning
Old 10-07-2018 | 12:02 AM
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Nah, it's probably my misunderstanding. If it's a dual mass clutch in your year. I don't know which year is a dual mass, and the S4 of 87 and later have a single plate setup. We will need someone with more expertise here to sort this out.

SEAN!!!!!!!!
Old 10-07-2018 | 11:06 AM
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You could pull the engine and once it is mounted to a stand, reinstall the clutch, install the lock tool, and then loosen the crank bolt but because of the forces needed to loosen it that would risk tipping the engine over on the stand (unless you have a BIG impact wrench). I would reinstall the clutch and loosen the crank bolt with the engine still mounted solidly in the car. You will need a breaker bar and about a four foot cheater pipe, it is that tight.
Old 10-07-2018 | 12:11 PM
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My guess is the flywheel as it is the same tool and same location for both manual and automatic cars.
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Old 10-07-2018 | 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Majestic Moose
You could pull the engine and once it is mounted to a stand, reinstall the clutch, install the lock tool, and then loosen the crank bolt but because of the forces needed to loosen it that would risk tipping the engine over on the stand (unless you have a BIG impact wrench). I would reinstall the clutch and loosen the crank bolt with the engine still mounted solidly in the car. You will need a breaker bar and about a four foot cheater pipe, it is that tight.
I have a Craftsman Impact that I am going to try to break it loose while still mounted in the car. So is there enough torque on that bolt that i need to hold the flywheel even using the impact? I don't want this thing spinning the engine counterclockwise. Spark plugs are still in it so that helps a bit, not much, but a bit. Realistically I just need to remount the clutch..Bummer

Thanks guys. Back to it! At least I am working on a 928, and it's a good time regardless, and with all this time I am spending on the clutch I can figure out how to adjust it correctly and pin the adjustment so it is good to go for years to come. I will post pics of the assorted clutch parts, to me they look pretty good. I need to research cleaning them up, putting hatch marks on it with an emory cloth? etc...

Enjoy your Sunday people!

Old 10-07-2018 | 01:27 PM
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I don't think the engine will turn but wait for a second opinion.
The WSM has pretty good details on the clutch setup.

Roger, the auto has the starter teeth on the flywheel but the manuals have a starter ring around the intermediate plate.

Auto:


The manual flywheel is bare:

The starter ring is on the intermediate plate:
Old 10-07-2018 | 01:57 PM
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Awesome thank you for the pics and info. I zinged the crank bolt off instantly with a impact. I am stoked i did not have to put the clutch back in. Lets see if I can get this thing pulled before i have to go to soccer today!

You guys rock thanks!
Old 10-07-2018 | 11:41 PM
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Oh yeah! Thanks to all



pulled it with my dad and my son. My son said , dad I bet I'm the only kid on the world that pulled an engine out of a 928 today. was nice

my dad actually brought a second engine lift that he purchased that day at the pumpkin run, car show here in cincy. Turns out I needed it, the lift i had was way too short even from the side life is good
Old 10-09-2018 | 07:40 PM
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My apology on the clutch setup. The dual clutch thing is a bit strange to me. Glad you got it out. Now, you have 8,534,916 things to get done before it goes back in. Keep us informed.
Old 10-09-2018 | 09:28 PM
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Wow, that looks great! I really think pulling it is the better way to go considering everything that needs to be looked at.

Good luck!!
Old 10-11-2018 | 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by docmirror
My apology on the clutch setup. The dual clutch thing is a bit strange to me. Glad you got it out. Now, you have 8,534,916 things to get done before it goes back in. Keep us informed.
Thing number 1 : ) How does the retainer come off the oil seperator nut in the cam cover? Looks like a tab bends down and then spin it off with a special tool? I cant get the tab to bend down and the dang oil seperator has started to crack.

Cam covers and intake are going to PC once I get the plastic seperator removed. TIA.
Old 10-11-2018 | 04:20 PM
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Make very, very, very sure that all of the blast media is cleaned out of the intake.

Then make sure again.



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