Anders Flodin

Just to tie up the loose ends on these very special speed nuts that holds the arms of the rear spoiler down. Number 28 in the pic below that refuses to display properly, cutn paste does not work?. 928sRUs carry them, only a few, there are 6 left, I got 6 for mine. So I guess Tsill13 will remove the rear spoiler when it comes the time for painting. Those sheet metal speed nuts can be pretty crusty so if they break you know where to find them. I tried several but none carried the, even though they have them listed on their websites.
Thanks
Anders

fobermueller

Hi can anybody help with vacuum lines. I have a 1981 with EFI. I replaced the 'green wire' and because the vacuum lines were so brittle they disintegrated and i'm not sure of what goes where. I think the front right port of the TB goes to the distributor but also through a tee goes to a vacuum switch(thermal). I've been looking at post and it looks like the vacuum switch is attached to an adapter on the rear of the pass. head. The manuals i've seen on-line are not clear as to if the hoses connecting to the vacuum switch are metal or rubber. The hose from the vacuum switch appear to go forward and dissapear from view on all the photos I've seen.

Can anybody tell me where the hoses/pipes from the vacuum thermostatic switch are routed?

Shawn Stanford

I redid the vacuum lines in my '82 a couple of years ago. I found a good diagram though Google.

tsill13

Not sure about vacuum line questions and speed nuts and such...I'm having a hard enough go at it on my own!

So I got to work on the 928 a bit more. Nothing major but on my way to pulling the engine. Dropped the exhaust and also removed some more odds and ends. Managed to finally drain the oil and found this:

tsill13

Mmmm! Looks great! I looked inside the oil baffle and water bridge/ports. It actually looks mint inside. Looks and measurements are two different things though. Once I get the wheels back from powdercoat I can get tires and then drop this thing down and pull the motor. Dreading putting head gaskets on it and doing the head work but will see how it goes.

There are larger pieces on the magnet that I'm not used to seeing on anything that I own. Don't know what this would be.

tsill13

Slow progress here.

Electrical: I got the electrical harness off the front of the motor. New harness from Sean on the way : )

Motor: Minor things such as a/c compressor off and hung up
I could use some advice on pulling the trans back. Still hung up on whether I am pulling the trans back while car is on the ground? Just roll the wheels back?

Also I have read about the motor mount bolts and length being appropriate so as to not bust the block. I know it is engine stand dependent. I plan on using threaded rod. What I dont know is how far into the block the threaded rod goes?

WSM says clutch must be removed for 87 and up. I'm assuming my 85' I just pull the trans back to clear the shaft and I'm good to pull the engine forward and lift out. Not sure the WSM really has all the steps I'm looking for and I'm a bit lost.

Wheels are back from powdercoater with new tires Michelin Pilot Sport AS3 225/50/16. I'm sure to get larger wheels and tires at a later date but right now they look really good and appropriate for the stage of the project I'm in.

Brakes: Brakes calipers and mounting brackets are now off, I need to get the pistons out and then they are off to the powdercoater, then rebuilt with new kit from Roger

Hopefully I can get the engine out next weekend. Thanks all for the help.

tsill13

Just read another thread that states to remove the clutch but leave the flywheel. I will mark the alignment prior to removing although my clutch assembly looks like its seen water and I may end up with a new assembly. Definitely has that I'm rusty and dry look to it. When I drove the car it seemed to shift fine although a bit notchy. Surely it needs new shift bushings/hardware/cups etc.

So I am removing clutch, removing Bellhousing bolts, lowering car onto it's wheels? and then removing 2 trans bolts and pulling it back a couple inches? then i'm free to pull the engine?

zekgb

Greg you said something similar in my thread a couple of years back, is it the jigsaw puzzle intake that prompts this sentiment or is there something else specific to the S3 that makes it so much harder?

tsill13

I'd like to see if someone can help me with a couple questions the first being order of engine removal i posted above. i would like to have the car on the ground so as to not lift the engine so high. can i/should i remove the trans bolts in the rear to allow the tt and bellhousing to move back when the car is on the ground? is there enough room to do this with car on the ground?

Second question is I removed the clutch, went pretty well after researching it for 2 days straight and making sure I understood what i was doing. my issue now is that the flywheel lock tool could not engage the flywheel, it doesn't even come close to peeking out the hole of the slave cylinder. I am now thinking i either have the tool for early cars, or i need to put the clutch back in and engage the starter teeth. would be great to know ahead of time before i attempt to put the clutch back in only to find out i was wrong on this last point.

i lied. i have a 3rd question. the wsm says to undo the ce electricals and push the rubber boot through, but doesnt say to send the connectors through as well. i am assuming this is the obvious thing to do.

Thanks! I'm close. Very close to getting this engine out.

Anders Flodin

also interested in pulling trans back to get upper bellhousing free so I can get cps out....
I happen to have a new front moon roof seal if you need it, got 2 from the supplier...

from what I have read you have to support the torque tube so it does not hang in the transmission, big torque from gravity on the tranny and spline connection

docmirror

You don't move the trans, tube, or bellhousing anywhere. There's an intermediate shaft that has moved back when the clutch was removed, so you should have no driveline connection now at all, just bellhousing bolts. That intermediate shaft was moved backward to get the clutch plate out with the pressure plate.

Do support the bellhousing/TT with a tie strap from underneath. Take out the two bellhousing bolts on the bottom, then car on ground, remove the two top bellhousing bolts with the air cleaner removed, and engine supported by the cherry picker. One can use a lot of extensions and remove the top bellhousing bolts from underside, but the engine has to be supported and then the car dropped down to pull out.

Yes, remove the two large connectors from the LH and EZK modules on the pax footwell side wall. Remove the boot on the lower right firewall behind and above the CE panel. Stuff the connectors through the firewall one at a time, and attach to the eng with a zip tie, or bungee cord.

Sounds like your flywheel lock is the wrong one. Don't mess with the flywheel until the engine is out and on the stand. It comes out with the engine.

tsill13

Thanks for the reply. I've seen in numerous posts that moving the trans/tt/bellhousing back an inch is helpful for pulling the engine by providing seperation.

I did get the LH and EZK and assortment of wires out the firewall. That was really the final hurdle.

The reason i need to lock the flywheel is to loosen the crank bolt. I have the late flywheel lock tool which should be correct for my 85. The issue is that the clutch is out and when i put the lock tool into the slave cylinder, there is no way it would ever come in contact with the flywheel teeth. Looking directly through the slave cylinder hole there are no teeth visible on the flywheel, the diameter is just not there. Now if the starter ring gear attached to the intermediate plate was still there than i bet it would engage but I would like to make sure that is the correct step before I put the clutch back in only to find out I was wrong.

docmirror

I don't know what to tell you on the flywheel tool. Now, this is NOT a recommendation, but I have had a helper stick a 4' pry bar into one of the teeth of the flywheel, and hold against the bellhousing while I put some grunt on the crank bolt. WARNING - there is an obvious risk of breaking the tooth off the flywheel with this method(I got lucky 3 times). On other non-928 cars in some cases the pressure plate bolts are drilled through the flywheel and I've put in a long bolt into one of the flywheel/PP threaded holes, and wedged it against the bottom of the engine block while removing the crank bolt. WARNING - there is potential for damage to the rear block, or oil pan, as well as breaking the bolt off in the flywheel threaded hole.

edit: If you are trying to pull engine with the radiator in, just - don't. It takes 2 allen screws to pull the rad. You'll have room to pull engine with the pullys in place if you like.

YMMV, objects in mirror, contents have settled, and may cause **** leakage.

ROG100

Doc - **** Leakage - what on Earth or you doing under your car??

tsill13

So when you all use a flywheel lock tool does it engage the flywheel or starter ring gear?

Radiator is out for sure. Thanks for all the other tips.