1985 S2 Auto has done 110K miles. Anyone know how long these last in general? They seem ok but I'm taking the entire back end apart at the moment as everything is rather rusty (the photos below actually flatter) and I'd hate to put it all back together and have the bearings fail soon after. I know Ill need a press unlike the fronts but I might have to buy a press anyway as the bushes are all perished and the last time i asked a shop to press out two bushes they charged me half the price of a 20t press.

 

I'd be more concerned about the age cracks in those tires. The rear bearings generally last a very long time

 

Tires (Tyres) are 20 years old and scrap. I plan on replacing them after I get all the white (!) powdercoat off the wheels and polish them

 

Wheel bearings are mostly dependent on the balance of the wheels, run a car w/out of balance wheels and the bearings will fail sooner than later, Or abused like running on a rim with a flat. I have some going strong at over 200k.
However if it's a while your in there kind of thing, then just do it, its hard to tell on rears if they need it unless they have failed.

 

Two comments reflecting my perspective on the question/pictures:

1.) All wheel bearings have grease. Grease outgasses with age and dries out. So, you should do something about that while you are in there. 30 years is a while. You can't repack this type of bearing, so the only option is to replace it.

2.) I recently saw the suspension bolts of a later model 928 that had obviously not been driven in any kind of really corrosive environment (like a Chicago winter). The covered shaft of the bolts (note I wrote shafts and NOT heads or shaft ends) were quite severely pitted from corrosion. If I were in your shoes, I would give all those parts a good looking over for potential future fracture damage due to deep corrosion.

 

What is your location?
Based on the pictures,
the whole suspension in that car is close to the end of its life cycle,
I would suggest to buy a used rear suspension and swap the whole thing out.

I would be surprised if you can get the rotors off without damaging the E brake shoes.
I will bet your not going to get the lower link pins out ,
and replacing bushings/ bearings into corroded parts will be a another exercise in frustration.

That whole thing looks like it has been submerged in salt water,
this reminds me of the 86.5 I went to look at up in Edison NJ it was a flood car.

Here it is.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...edison-nj.html

 

Age usually is relentless. When I pulled my S4 body off my right rear wheel bearing was toast - it just spun and spun and spun, I think I have a video of it somewhere...another item not easily done especially by a DIY'er.

 

Im in Surrey (South of england) but the car spent most of its life up North near the scottish border and they use a lot of salt up there. Funnily enough the brake discs came off very easily as did the drive shafts. The allen bolts holding the driveshafts were quite a challlenge as the centers disintigrated as soon as I tried to turn them but managed to get them off by heating them and then using a bolt extractor socket that fit over the head. Ive also since removed the fuel tank as the cradle and fuel pump cover are completely rotten (managed to find a decent used cover and plan to fabricate a new cradle)

If by lower link pins you mean the eccentric bolts you are right. The nuts wont budge after two heating cycles and loads of penetrating fluid, and they are starting to round so I might have to resort to cutting the nuts off with a dremmel which will most likely ruin the bolt as well. sometimes I feel like giving up but at least the front (which was just as bad) looks a lot better now and that gives me some hope!

 

the link pins are the long rods that go through the bottom of the rear shocks, based on the corrosion they will not come out easily.
The front end looks great .looks like a lot of cash was spent.
it would be a wise decision to swap out the whole rear sub frame,
you might be able to find one in good condition then you can take it apart on the ground ,
swap in the new bushings and build it,
then remove the one in your car and fit the freshened subframe back in.