paalw

My gearbox has a small leak and there are drops of oil coming down to the area with the red spot, and then flying onto the exhaust behind while driving. Making a burnt oil smell all around the car.

My plan is to take out the gearbox and TT after this season to replace gaskets on gearbox and new bearings in TT, but until then I want to enjoy the car this summer. Preferably without the oil smell.

Any bright minds that would think of a temporary solution just to catch the oil before it splashes onto the exhaust? I have been thinking maybe wrapping some alu foil around the box, and let it sip onto that instead of the exhaust, but I don't feel confident it's gonna work..even if it is not a lot of oil just a few drops and only when the car is driven. If I wipe the hanging drop off after a run, it will not be anything on the floor even after weeks.

elgy

I had a similar problem on my 924S with engine oil leaking onto the exhaust and I needed to pass an inspection. I was able to make an aluminum shield bolted to the engine that caught the drips and directed them away from the exhaust.
Perhaps a shield bolted to the rear of the tranny and passing under the exhaust, with a clamp holding it to the exhaust so it doesn't rattle but leaving space between the pipe and the shield.
Good luck.

SwayBar

I have a 2008 Rav4 V6, and that thing is a rocket!

Anyway, I had a rear differential leak, and after some research, decided to try and buy Lucas Engine Oil Stop Leak since they state it can also be used in tranny's, diff's, power steering, etc.

I put the recommended ratio in and surprisingly - it worked! I couldn't believe it, really.

Give it a try.

paalw

Thanks, but I dont wan't to put any additives in it. It is a PSD unit and only God knows how it will react to such stuff.

hacker-pschorr

Yea, I don't get it, their stuff just works. It's unreal. I've stopped three 928's from leaking power steering fluid using their power steering stop leak. I know the leak will come back someday, but it's been a couple of years for one of them.

Taguid

My diff was leaking at the same spot out of the vent on top. The oil deflection plate on the cover had moved down so I had to remove the diff cover and push it back up along with new gasket. It hasn't leaked since. It can be done without removing the the drive train if you don't strip the torx bolts. I removed the tank because I did strip the bolts and it gave great access to get it done properly. Oh, I had also replaced the seals and o-rings on the driveshaft connectors on the diff but that did not correct that leak for me. Good luck

paalw

So what you're saying is that you were able to replace a gasket on top of the gearbox, without lowering anything and the gearbox in place? That for me, from just looking at the area, looks like an impossible job.

You don't happen to have any photos of what you are talking about? I am not familiar with how it looks up there, or inside...it might have the same leak, since it is only leaking while driving.

Taguid

I am referring to the differential that your pic shows the leak. Take a look at post #8 where Seth shows his pics of what I am referring to. https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...transaxle.html

Mongo

When I was having my steering rack issues I used the same stuff. It worked great for a year until the seal completely failed on the right side of the rack, filling the tie rod boot with fluid. Only down side is on cold mornings, the power steering pump will have cavitation due the viscosity of the stop leak versus typical ATF used in the PS system. There will be some funny noises for a good 3-5 seconds after a cold start.

paalw

Ahh, now I get it. The rear cover, yes of course. I thought you were talking about some top cover, but it's only the vent that's on top. Then I see it should be possible But I don't see any torx, I suppose you meant hex bolts? And there is a fitting on top of my cover, banjo fitting, is that what it's called? What is that for, and I probably have to disconnect that one too? if I can get to that bolt somehow.. See my second photo.

Taguid

Ah, Yes I see your's is a GTS and doesn't have the torx bolts but it does look like you have oil cooler lines to deal with. Yes remove the bolt holding the banjo fitting and make sure you get new copper washers when you get the banjo fitting back together to prevent leaks.

paalw

Yes, it is a GTS manual. Banjo looks like oil cooler return yes. However it doesn't seem like I have a vent like yours on this drawing? But still I guess it might probably be the gasket.

Taguid

Yes, very different. I guess the venting is done by the cooler lines.Good luck finding the source apparently I needed to look a little closer at your model.

paalw

Yup,but for me it looks like it is probably either the oil line connection on top or the rear gasket, most likely the gasket, and if I can change that with the box installed I'll try that. And also change the copper washers for the oil return. Thanks for your guidance, I will let you know how it goes.

GregBBRD

The gasket for the rear cover is paper and it gets saturated with oil, with time, and leaks.

Simple to change, in place....on an early car. Because there is an oil pump attached to the rear cover on a GTS, room to remove the cover can be an issue....you may need to move the fuel tank.

Buy a can of Curil K2 and brush both sides of the new gasket, before installation. Never leak again.