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I have a 1980 928S Euro. This discussion is targeted to the 78-79 but doe sit also apply to the 1980's? If not, what were the changes. My clutch seemed to be intermittently dragging which caused it to be difficult to get into any gear. Replaced the clutch master and slave cylinders but still have the problem. I haven't tried all the bleeding items in these posts but I will. I also haven't compared the internals of he master from what I believe is the original (at least it hasn't been replaced since 1985 when I purchased the car) to the new one.
Mike Lemons
I’d jack it up and get someone to push the clutch pedal while you watch the slave shaft move in the little clutch inspection window on the bell housing. Measure the movement and compare to specs in the wsm, if it’s not close you probably have a hydraulic issue. If it’s within spec, take off the bell housing and read the posts above in this thread by Greg Brown about adjusting the intermediate plate. Basically, you disconnect the two Allen bolts on the clutch to driveshaft clamp, slide it back out of the way. Using a pry bar, pry the release arm back off the pressure plate with one arm and try to spin the short shaft with the other arm. If you can’t, try prying the three H tabs on the intermediate plate towards the rear. They don’t move much, but it makes all the difference. Do this until you can spin the short shaft easily and you should be good. The wsm outlines this procedure pretty well too.
If you do need to replace the short clutch shaft, here is a picture of the Precision motorwerks (Greg Browns') new stub shaft on the left. It's a thing of beauty
Thanks for your reply. Guess I just wasn't getting it bled enough. Took the slave off, turned the bleed valve up and the trapped air came out. Put back together and all seems to be working good. Thanks again.
Thanks for your reply. Guess I just wasn't getting it bled enough. Took the slave off, turned the bleed valve up and the trapped air came out. Put back together and all seems to be working good. Thanks again.
Clutch is working great. I just wanted to add a few helpful tips I learned through the process of this job.
-when lining up clutch pack on the work bench before installing in car. Get all pieces in the correct order and lined up then gently tap the pressure plate evenly with a rubber mallet into the intermediate plate. It’s not a tight hold, but it’s enough that if you are gentle with it while installing the pieces it will not fall apart on your head during the critical alignment phase under the car.
- replace the guide tube while doing this job. It’s a $60 part. I didn’t and experienced some clutch rattle (stuttering or juttering) while down shifting, when reversing and slow starts in first. I went back in and found my guide had worn (tapered) down 0.6 mm. I feel silly I missed this when doing the job originally, but whatever, it’s fixed now. The clutch now feels like a million bucks with the news parts and the new guide tube.
Last edited by Oldewoodupes; 08-25-2018 at 12:38 PM.
06-20-2018, 08:10 PM
