Advice Needed - Adding Auxiliary Ground during Intake Refresh
#1
Three Wheelin'
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Jacksonville and sometimes St. Aug Beach, FL
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Advice Needed - Adding Auxiliary Ground during Intake Refresh
Hi Everyone,
I'm seriously considering adding an auxiliary ground at the back of the engine (near firewall) to a ground point on the chassis.
My rational is two fold -
1. It can't hurt (right?)
2. I don't expect to clean the ground under the Heater Control Valve as frequently and a ground improvement here, seems like a good ides.
Any advice?
I'm seriously considering adding an auxiliary ground at the back of the engine (near firewall) to a ground point on the chassis.
My rational is two fold -
1. It can't hurt (right?)
2. I don't expect to clean the ground under the Heater Control Valve as frequently and a ground improvement here, seems like a good ides.
Any advice?
#2
Rennlist Member
More grounds is never a bad thing. The audio community has something known as the big 3. Grounds are a significant part of this.
Adding more grounds will increase the amount of current that can flow from the engine to the chassis. It's also part of Greg Brown's alt upgrade.
Adding more grounds will increase the amount of current that can flow from the engine to the chassis. It's also part of Greg Brown's alt upgrade.
#5
Former Vendor
For a stock engine, buy a new stock ground cable from the chassis to the engine block. Clean the chassis connection and the engine connection. I think they retail for -$16. It is all you will ever need.
Replace the stock ground cable from the chassis to the battery with either Roger's or my replacement cable (avoid anyone else's.) The stock cables aren't as good a design as either of our replacement cables and cause way more problems than most people realize....the crazy stories I could tell.
Replace the stock ground cable from the chassis to the battery with either Roger's or my replacement cable (avoid anyone else's.) The stock cables aren't as good a design as either of our replacement cables and cause way more problems than most people realize....the crazy stories I could tell.
#6
For a stock engine, buy a new stock ground cable from the chassis to the engine block. Clean the chassis connection and the engine connection. I think they retail for -$16. It is all you will ever need.
Replace the stock ground cable from the chassis to the battery with either Roger's or my replacement cable (avoid anyone else's.) The stock cables aren't as good a design as either of our replacement cables and cause way more problems than most people realize....the crazy stories I could tell.
Replace the stock ground cable from the chassis to the battery with either Roger's or my replacement cable (avoid anyone else's.) The stock cables aren't as good a design as either of our replacement cables and cause way more problems than most people realize....the crazy stories I could tell.
#7
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
The stock ground locations (chassis/block) are adequate - as long as they are clean, tight and in good condition they are unlikely to cause any problems. The stock engine ground strap is not the most ideal however, so for "a few dollars more" you can go to a better gauge with better protection from the elements.
If you do have grounding problems these can manifest themselves in very strange ways indeed... best to avoid by some good preventative maintenance.
Alan.
If you do have grounding problems these can manifest themselves in very strange ways indeed... best to avoid by some good preventative maintenance.
Alan.
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#9
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Jacksonville and sometimes St. Aug Beach, FL
Posts: 1,727
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A-freaking-MEN!
Just asking for folks opinion if an extra ground wire running from the top of the engine (say, at the ground point near the heater control valve) to a part of the body would improve grounding when it is a bit problematic to get down to that point to clean grounds annually (Yes, I don't want to spend time doing it!)
I've got loads of welding cable and might rig up a ground wire. I regularly (every couple of years) replace the ground from the block to the body underneath.
Just because opinions are like A-holes...let's not let people's opinions turn us into A-holes.
Thanks!
Just asking for folks opinion if an extra ground wire running from the top of the engine (say, at the ground point near the heater control valve) to a part of the body would improve grounding when it is a bit problematic to get down to that point to clean grounds annually (Yes, I don't want to spend time doing it!)
I've got loads of welding cable and might rig up a ground wire. I regularly (every couple of years) replace the ground from the block to the body underneath.
Just because opinions are like A-holes...let's not let people's opinions turn us into A-holes.
Thanks!
#10
Rennlist Member
IMO if the stock Ground(s) OHM out to Zero, then why do you need more grounds?
If they do Ohm out good and you are having electrical issues, then the Grounds are not the problem.
Like already stated here, make sure the stock ones are clean hit them w/ your favorite anti-corrosion protection (mine is WD-40) and move on.
Sounds like you are looking for a solution to a non-existent problem, however it is your car do as you wish,
The first thing I do when I buy a 928 is to REMOVE all non-stock wiring, unless it has a reason to be there (like an upgraded radio power AMP).
Edit: IMO most people here say "check the grounds" because the car has been neglected and thus allowed to corrode from being driven in the wet and stored or stored in a damp place and not driven.
Once this issues have been addressed they is no need to go back and redo them unless the above is repeated.
Dave
If they do Ohm out good and you are having electrical issues, then the Grounds are not the problem.
Like already stated here, make sure the stock ones are clean hit them w/ your favorite anti-corrosion protection (mine is WD-40) and move on.
Sounds like you are looking for a solution to a non-existent problem, however it is your car do as you wish,
The first thing I do when I buy a 928 is to REMOVE all non-stock wiring, unless it has a reason to be there (like an upgraded radio power AMP).
Edit: IMO most people here say "check the grounds" because the car has been neglected and thus allowed to corrode from being driven in the wet and stored or stored in a damp place and not driven.
Once this issues have been addressed they is no need to go back and redo them unless the above is repeated.
Dave
#11
Rennlist Member
IMO if the stock Ground OHM out to Zero, then why do you need more grounds?
If they do and you are having electrical issues, then the Grounds are not the problem.
Like already stated here, make sure the stock ones are clean hit them w/ your favorite anti-corrosion protestant (mine is WD-40) and move on.
Sounds like you are looking for a solution to a non-existent problem, however it is your car do as you wish,
The first thing I do when I buy a 928 is to REMOVE all non-stock wiring, unless it has a reason to be there (like an upgraded radio power AMP).
If they do and you are having electrical issues, then the Grounds are not the problem.
Like already stated here, make sure the stock ones are clean hit them w/ your favorite anti-corrosion protestant (mine is WD-40) and move on.
Sounds like you are looking for a solution to a non-existent problem, however it is your car do as you wish,
The first thing I do when I buy a 928 is to REMOVE all non-stock wiring, unless it has a reason to be there (like an upgraded radio power AMP).
What if I add a 50lb ground strap at the starter, to improve the rotational moment of the chassis?
#13
#14
Nordschleife Master