Mongo

Just had a smog this weekend and I passed with flying colors on CO, NOX, but my HC's were at the very edge of the limit. Clearly this means unburnt fuel is making its way into the exhaust. My plugs are new and I'm running Ken's S300 EZK chip (which amazingly moderates both NOX and CO). Assuming the caps and rotors have to go in exchange for new stuff. They have about 60k on them so I assume it's that time. What other possibilities?

Should also mention it has had this hesitation around mid throttle between 2500-4000 before the flap opens, feels like it wants to stumble and hangs a bit before picking up.

Parts already replaced in less than 25k miles:
-plugs (100 miles old)
-wires
-coils
-injectors
-fuel regulator and dampers
-MAF

Grounds were cleaned to spick and span copper shine. ALL OF THEM.

Thanks for reading.

Speedtoys

...or cats

Mongo

Cats have about 70k miles on them. They are used and only worn on 'smog days'.

Do broiled spiders in the pipes contribute to hydrocarbons?

V2Rocket

You sure the chips aren't making you run rich? FPR ok / what is your running FP? O2 sensor age?

Smog numbers are a balancing act - making one or two numbers go down will make the 3rd go up...HC in your case.
I doubt the dizzy/rotor are the cause of your problem, if they were that bad you'd have running issues all the time. (FWIW I'm using the same dizzy/rotor since 2006, via the original plug wires from 1984, and my smog numbers were like a brand new car a few weeks ago).

Mongo

I am having some running issue with a flat spot mid-range and at part throttle. Dizzies and rotors aren't pricey so I figure why not change them and report back if the problem continues.

Speedtoys

Hate ta say it, but gonna have to gather WBO2 data to dig into that.

Mongo

Great! A better excuse to buy an AEM wideband kit!

Speedtoys

You gonna be at SITP this weekend, borrow mine. Just buy a bung and a plug for it when youre done.

Mongo

Trying to get over this damn cold before going this weekend. No worries about borrowing, I don't want to be delinquent in returning it. I'll just go buy one on my own

V2Rocket

If you get an AEM wideband, be very careful to get it a clean, stable 12 volt power supply and a very good, non-noisy ground.
I had all kinds of issues with mine until I re-wired the thing properly.

Mongo

Trying to think where a good ground point would be for the WBO sensor....

Any thoughts?

Speedtoys

Not a wise thing to do.

Its not harmful, but it never really ends up working _right_ for most cars.

Never ending threads on this shortcut on EFI tuning forums.

And also, as noted, _good clean power and ground_, that can make a mess of WBO2 readings.

Mongo

What ground do you recommend? I also edited my comment on emulating signal after doing some searching.

By the way, here is my smog results. Any feedback would be appreciated. Additional research has led me to high HC being a misfire likely causing it. Will continue with original plan to replace caps and rotors. However, if Ken's chip requires running colder plugs, the WR5DC (7992), would a colder plug cause more hydrocarbons? This question would be contradicted by the higher NOX levels. I measured in the 240s 2 years ago.

Speedtoys

A good ground would be above the CE panel on the clean main chassis ground points with the ECU.

V2Rocket

Not the sensor, I meant the gauge itself, sorry.

And agree with speedtoys, add a separate bung for the WB, leave the NB in place.