Painting drip rails in situ
#1
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Painting drip rails in situ
My experience has been they always bend and need to be replaced. Are there pros and cons on removing them for paint?
What is the general consensus on removing drip rails for paint?
Here's my car ready for paint. I've left the top windshield trim, hatch trim and rear quarter windows to removed by my body shop.
The red GT in the background if the next candidate for restoration.
What is the general consensus on removing drip rails for paint?
Here's my car ready for paint. I've left the top windshield trim, hatch trim and rear quarter windows to removed by my body shop.
The red GT in the background if the next candidate for restoration.
#2
Team Owner
read the WSM for removal and installation of the drip rails
Use a heat gun and start at the rear,
work forwards over an area about a foot long,
gently pull the trim out no more that about 3 this so you dont bend it.
NOTE once it has a curve bend its difficult to install unless its bent back into position.
the heat will warm the glue used to install it and also expand the metal so it comes free
Use a heat gun and start at the rear,
work forwards over an area about a foot long,
gently pull the trim out no more that about 3 this so you dont bend it.
NOTE once it has a curve bend its difficult to install unless its bent back into position.
the heat will warm the glue used to install it and also expand the metal so it comes free
#3
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I used plastic wedges (construction shims) along with heat as above. Get the glue warm and tap the wedge along the seam.
I guess the proof in the pudding will be when they go back on, but they look perfect.
What's the right glue to use putting them back on after paint?
I guess the proof in the pudding will be when they go back on, but they look perfect.
What's the right glue to use putting them back on after paint?
#4
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IIRC the glue spec or reference is in the WSM
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The red GT in the background if the next candidate for restoration.
#6
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As for the quality of my body shop they recently un-duckbilled a PO's efforts to fit wider tires in a 88 S4 I sold on eBay. The before and after was amazing.
And the suggestion that I would cut mirror harnesses is just offensive. Maybe you forgot the smilie face at the end of your last comment. :-)
What I was asking can you really tell the difference when the drip rail is painted in situ. I guess the answer is no.
#7
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I've come to the conclusion that when dealing with body shops:
- if it could possibly get painted (i.e. over-spray) it will get painted
- if they say they'll do something (like glue removal, masking, etc.) they won't.
What I was asking can you really tell the difference when the drip rail is painted in situ. I guess the answer is no.
And the suggestion that I would cut mirror harnesses is just offensive.
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#8
Team Owner
even more important is after putting it all back together,
the mirror wire harness has a defined route ,inside the door.
if its not done properly then it can get caught in the door check or the window front edge,
either one will take out the mirror operation
the mirror wire harness has a defined route ,inside the door.
if its not done properly then it can get caught in the door check or the window front edge,
either one will take out the mirror operation
#10
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While the thought for any of us here to cut the mirror harness is offensive, unfortunately not all body shop guys feel the same. This is the main reason that I stopped letting body shops dismantle any 928 I restored over 20 years ago, luckily it was the very first resto so I learned that lesson quickly.
Happy Monday Night to all,
Dave
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#11
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Hi Kevin,
While the thought for any of us here to cut the mirror harness is offensive, unfortunately not all body shop guys feel the same. This is the main reason that I stopped letting body shops dismantle any 928 I restored over 20 years ago, luckily it was the very first resto so I learned that lesson quickly.
Happy Monday Night to all,
Dave
While the thought for any of us here to cut the mirror harness is offensive, unfortunately not all body shop guys feel the same. This is the main reason that I stopped letting body shops dismantle any 928 I restored over 20 years ago, luckily it was the very first resto so I learned that lesson quickly.
Happy Monday Night to all,
Dave
Happy Monday night back to you Dave, a man I consider a friend and 928 mentor over the past 23 years of 928 ownership and who's sage advice has always been there through the ownership of 19 928's (yeah, I counted the number of them that that have passed through my hands) and you're the man that said: "Kevin, they come apart one way and they go together one way." way back in 1996 when I did my first timing belt and water pump service.
Here's to another 23 years of knowing you!
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I didn't see in your (magnified and examined) pictures any evidence that you didn't just cut off the connector bodies like I've seen done time-and-time again by POs, "technicians" installing replacement mirrors, body shops, and even dismantlers who will attempt to charge for a used door harness with the connector bodies cut off. (And no, keep those fingers away from the keyboard, I'm not referring to 928 International in that last bit.)
But, I will take your word for it that you'd never cut the connectors off and did in fact de-pin the connector bodies before wrapping the harness and bare pins in tape to prevent over-spray. I'll also assume that you threw-up a little in your mouth when you saw the picture of the butt-splice mess I get to deal with thanks to some 'technician' that couldn't be bothered to use the !@#$ing replacement pins that come in the Aero Mirror kit from Porsche.
And on the subject of the harness routing, take note of what Stan wrote. The body shop will almost certainly push your masked-off door harnesses into the doors and screw up the routing. Take note, now, of how they are routed and fastened inside the door so as to avoid interfering with the window because when you get it back they will, likely, be placed to interfere 'cause that's what happens when you push those harnesses into the doors.
Last, I hope your body shop's results are well above the average I've observed.
#13
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The drip rails were painted separately. No doubt about it. If/when you take them off, you'll find pristine, shiny paint on the lip of the roof panel and A-pillar.
#14
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Glad to see we can be equally offended over some stupid ****, Dave.
I'll end it here by saying I heard from others via PM that said they'd painted them in situ and no one was the wiser.
It is sad that some Rennlisters are loath to comment within the thread. Do you ever wonder why?
I'll end it here by saying I heard from others via PM that said they'd painted them in situ and no one was the wiser.
It is sad that some Rennlisters are loath to comment within the thread. Do you ever wonder why?
#15
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Oh, there's definitely more stuff you can disassemble. For example: all the sunroof guts. Unless you know that your body shop is going mask off the cavity tightly and kill the line at the edge of the roof opening.
I've come to the conclusion that when dealing with body shops:
- if it could possibly get painted (i.e. over-spray) it will get painted
- if they say they'll do something (like glue removal, masking, etc.) they won't.
Yes. As with all repaints: If you look hard enough. The expense involved in re-paint is dependent upon how hard you need to look to find the evidence.
Well, good. That means that you give a flying !@#4. Based upon the @#$% I see that people paid for I don't assume that most people with wrenches give a $h1+.
I've come to the conclusion that when dealing with body shops:
- if it could possibly get painted (i.e. over-spray) it will get painted
- if they say they'll do something (like glue removal, masking, etc.) they won't.
Yes. As with all repaints: If you look hard enough. The expense involved in re-paint is dependent upon how hard you need to look to find the evidence.
Well, good. That means that you give a flying !@#4. Based upon the @#$% I see that people paid for I don't assume that most people with wrenches give a $h1+.