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Fuel lines will be added to the project (unless they turn out to have been replaced recently)
Below are some pics of the TB access holes - any thoughts/impressions ?
Originally Posted by bureau13
I think you mentioned the crank seal. If you need to replace it (and it's not a bad idea at this point) it's not that hard if you know what you're doing. I didn't, so every time I'd get stuck I'd come in and post on my ongoing TB/WP thread and get some great advice by the good folks here.
Regarding water pump choices, I'm a proponent of getting a Guardian water pump if you're using a PKT. Since you lose the belt tension warning (although someone is trying out a clever method of getting that functionality back) the Guardian solves one of the problems that a belt tension light helps solve....seized pump bearing breaking your timing belt. Something to think about: Send me a PM if you want more info, or maybe Ed will see this and chime in.
One advantage of ditching the air pump is that it's a lot easier to get to the AC compressor fittings with that thing gone.
Hoping that the crank seal looks fine but time will tell. I'll have to do a search re Guardian pump but plan on going with plastic impeller.
Some thought here, I’m calling top pic the drivers side TB window, showing the belt tracking further forward.
This can be more common for the 86.5, but check it again after the WP/TP change. It can be related to improper tension or WP pulley shifting as well.
Some thought here, I’m calling top pic the drivers side TB window, showing the belt tracking further forward.
This can be more common for the 86.5, but check it again after the WP/TP change. It can be related to improper tension or WP pulley shifting as well.
Yes, that's the driver side. Thanks
As I'm poking around, just noticed this vac line not attached. It is below the green arrow - which vac line is this and could it be responsible for poor performance ? retarding engine ?
Course change ? Decided to inspect the fuel lines and found oil pooling and inside the plenum under the MAF - how does it get there. Combined with the loose vac line (above post), should I change course and do the top end first ? The fuel lines look good but as advised, age dictates replacement - they look original - correct ?
Hey!
That is actually pretty normal oil in the valley Ramp.
Usually from the filler neck leak.
That's ok to drive on because it’s likely been there a while.
You got room in her budget to do the water bridge and oil filler neck gasket?
Several aftermarket baffles that help as well.
Edit: To speak on the oil in throttle body, that’s normal as well. Your stock oil breather is vented directly into there. Many threads on this, but you are okay for now. Also normal to see oil in your side air boxes.
You get used to it after awhile my friend.
It’s not your 911 is it!
Did she get her new exhaust on yet?
Hey!
That is actually pretty normal oil in the valley Ramp.
Usually from the filler neck leak.
That's ok to drive on because it’s likely been there a while.
You got room in her budget to do the water bridge and oil filler neck gasket?
Several aftermarket baffles that help as well.
Edit: To speak on the oil in throttle body, that’s normal as well. Your stock oil breather is vented directly into there. Many threads on this, but you are okay for now. Also normal to see oil in your side air boxes.
You get used to it after awhile my friend.
It’s not your 911 is it!
Did she get her new exhaust on yet?
Crumpler - Thanks - I thought about this and did some searching - as you said, looks pretty normal. I'll stick to the TB/WP and just clean up the oil under there for now.
911 is different animal. No coolant system, simpler intake, simpler vac lines (although some just as hard to get to), less sensors, etc. I have the new 911 exhaust but was to energized by the 928 ended up cleaning the garage and organizing for TB/WP. Exhaust can wait for a nice spring day.
I'm impressed by the linear cracks and frayed bits along the front edge of the belt - I think that either that belt is tracking _rearward_ from the 'regular' area of wear on those gears, not forward, or the front 2mm of that belt has been ground away against something and it's just gone. Either way,
Don't even start the engine before doing the TB/WP.
You have all the typical 'to do' of every 928. If we can see actual cracks in the top of the belt, the toothed side is likely worse. You can spin the teeth off the belt just by starting it.
TB/WP; top end refresh(oil pooling fix); fuel, vac lines; PS lines; motor mounts, pan gasket; THEN, it'll be ready to drive and work off the rest of the stuff.
Rob - still one of my favorite shows - No mulligatawny for me
docmirror - The car is on the lift and not going anywhere. I already pulled the fan shroud, air pump filter housing, air filter box and MAF. Was going to drain it yesterday but can't find a kiddie pool in NY in March - go figure. Also, degreased the belly pan (PITA) but it's ready for some paint - I also didn't know the S3 pan is somewhat hard to get. Mine seems to be in very good condition.
I will be posting some pics of the motor mounts - they don't look bad to me but I'll let the community chime in.
Take a look at the top of your intake manifold with respect to the strut tower cross bar. If the intake is lower than the top of the bar then your motor mounts are compressed.
Yeah, new belt, it's loose. My 86.5 had the exact same thing (came on at 3-4k RPM) and I got the tensioner tool, learned how to check tension with it, and after finding the belt was ok (replaced a few years ago, only 30k miles on it) turned the tensioner screw 1/2 turn and it has been happy ever since. Note if you use the cheap tool the little pointer has to be in the middle of the window. On the edge of the window=too loose. Other edge? Probably too tight. In the middle, just right.
Your belt is loose, it's not a lack of oil in the tensioner, not noise from the spark plugs, and not a faulty computer. It's loose.
I've had a belt break on a 944S (see .00 belt) and rebuilding the head sucks. Even more annoying is having a chain ramp go, then you get to do the head *AND* replace the camshafts. But that's life at 180k miles and you're not there yet.
Even though you have 40k miles I would say replace. Aside from the age (Ok, I'm not an age nut on belts, but 30 years is over the edge for me), if it's the original belt and it was formulated like the 944S .00 belt then it *will* shear teeth soon. On the S they upgraded the belt to an .02 which is much better, I assume they did the same thing on the 928's because the factory belts were not good IMO.
Take a look at the top of your intake manifold with respect to the strut tower cross bar. If the intake is lower than the top of the bar then your motor mounts are compressed.
From a different angle, if the bottom of the oil pan is hanging below the crossmember, they are squashed.
Take a look at the top of your intake manifold with respect to the strut tower cross bar. If the intake is lower than the top of the bar then your motor mounts are compressed.
I took a couple of pics re the mounts - below the "TOP" of the cross member ? I thought they looked ok until now.
Yep they are collapsed (the top cones are gone) and require replacement.
On the Oil in the intake, some is normal, usually a thimble full in each side plenum, and a bit in the Throttle passage like you have shown, it comes from the PCV system.
Just clean it up, and drain it once per driving season.
The Belt is "wobbling" as shown by the clean wear area on the cam gears, so just tightening it up won't solve that issue, the system need to be inspected, something is failing / worn out.
And NEVER just turn the belt tension Adjustment w/ out using a belt gauge, else you risk over tightening the belt and bending the shoulder bolt on an S3, wearing out the gears due to over tension when Hot.
Thought I would post an update: So far it's been going relatively smoothly. Cleaning as I go and only a couple of hiccups. The various guides and quick searches on this forum are invaluable - putting an old laptop in the garage - highly recommended !
I'm getting ready to remove the TB - any thoughts on the original and the sprockets ?
Tomorrow will need to get a pipe - the breaker bar isn't enough to get the crank bolt going.
Should I change the oil pressure sender and thermostat - only b/c WYAIT ?
There is an air temp sensor in the bottom of the air box ? Replace b/c WYAIT ?
I removed the air pump and plumbing but I can't seem to see how the diverter valve is mounted so I can remove it - anyone ??
03-18-2018, 03:01 PM
