Ramp

Hi all - I’m in the process of sorting my first 928, an 86.5, one owner with about 40k miles. Generally the car is in ok/good running shape but did/does need lots of TLC and deferred maintenance. My initial objective was to first fix everything that was broken and get all (if possible) systems running. I have gotten great help here and at PP on the issues I've tackled so far, such as grounds, fuses, relays, doors, lights, etc. Basically, I "could but won't" drive this car every day now.

I’m trying to figure out what to do next while also trying to keep the car from being of the road for too long as I would like to drive it often this summer and get a real feel for it. I have no maintenance records - the PO doesn’t know what her deceased husband did with them.

I’ve already tackled quite a bit but here’s a list of some of the things that need to be done - any advice on what to do next ?

1. TB/Water Pump is high on the list but is probably the most time consuming. The belt light comes on but ONLY if I get the RPM’s over around 3500
2. Oil Pan gasket – lots of oil/grease underside. I started to clean up and noticed that the bolts were very loose – tightened them all down (and snapped one that needs to be fixed) but believe I should drop it and replace the gasket – another time consuming job
3. Top End Refresh – The car seems to idle, start, run smoothly but lacks some power (although I don’t have any comparison). Thought that by doing this I could redo the vac lines, hall sensor etc. and improve overall performance – I’m pretty sure I’m not operating at anything close to optimal)
4. Fluids/Filters – change the AT fluid/filter, Diff oil, brake fluid, (oil is actually clean so not a priority – I think the PO must have done an oil change before he passed)

5. Later issues, I think would be to deal with power steering seepage, plugs, wires, wheel bearings (front wheels seem very tight). Later, later issues such as porken chip, shocks, cosmetics, etc.

I'm leaning towards the TB/Water pump simply for state of mind but this would be my first and a lot of work – can I reasonably do this in 2 full weekends ? (If I could, would love to join some of you in SC and get some in person advice on how it drives)

Much appreciated (and please excuse my avatar)

Rob Edwards

That's pretty easy- Don't drive it anymore until you've done the timing belt . It's trying to tell you.

jej3

My $.02....

1. TB/Water Pump - Do this now while you still have a functional low mileage engine
2. Oil Pan gasket – Do this now but also do the Motor Mounts plus Steering Rack Bushings (Delrin) and be mindful of torque EVERYWHERE
3. Top End Refresh – Defer - Do 1,2 and 4 then drive the shiz out of the car... Italian Tuneup
4. Fluids/Filters – Change out the COOLANT and everything else as part of items 1,2 above. The coolant could have been there a LONG time.

Whatever you paid - go spend the $1K-$4K in parts and get that car right. I think you could to a TB/Water Pump in 2 solid weekends and if you only did that plus fluids, you could properly assess how the car drives.

gomez123

Man, I'm envious I bought a 1984s and I have to replace just about everything on the car. But I didn't pay much for it either.

bureau13

Absolutely don't run it until you've done that Timing Belt/Water pump (and associated coolant change). It's one thing if the light just always comes on, as it could be an unplugged wire (easy to check). If it only comes on due to what you're doing with the engine, that makes me nervous. You could do it in a couple of weekends, but be aware you may find other things that need doing,. I replaced all the seals on the front of the motor, which makes sense to do while you're in there if they need it, but will take you a bit more time. Also, take a look at your cam gears, etc. If they're worn, you'll want to replace them as well. Good while-you're-in-there jobs: Distributor caps/rotors...you have to take them off anyway, and if you don't know when/if they were last changed...at the very least inspect them carefully. If you don't do 'em not a big deal, they're pretty easy to get to. Same with wires...you're at least partially taking them off, so consider it.

I'm sure your motor mounts and oil pan gasket are in need of doing, but IMO those aren't really emergencies. Do them when you are good and ready. I still haven't, it's a big job..

I'd change your soft fuel lines if they're original, and same with the power steering lines...at least the high pressure, prone-to-leaking-and-starting-fires line. And while you do that (even if you don't) the reservoir is an easy and cheap change.

Ramp

I know this is true but wanted to hear something else - lol -it's not the connection, light only happens when revving the engine but that could be a bad tensioner adjustment and not the belt ?? correct ? I've only put 150 miles on her since ownership and am dying to get her out of the garage. Doing the TB/WP will mean she's down at least until well into the spring/summer. Maybe I should just bite the bullet and start - but then I need to put the 911 back on the lift first just for its spring fluids etc. Could order the parts and get the 911 out of the way (work and family get in the way of all this as most of us know)

If I start the TB, I think I should go with the Porken Tensioner so I don't need to worry or deal with future adjustments. But, that raises the question of keeping the air pump and related plumbing or getting rid of it. I'm in NY so all we have is a safety inspection (no exhaust or visual). I am also a bit worried that the front crank seal may be leaking only because of so much oil in that area - but that could be from the loose oil pan and gasket - how hard is it to replace the crank seal.

bureau13 I'll post some pics of motor mounts - I think they are actually ok - but yes, those and the oil pan are a big project and not something I want to do at the same time as the TB/WP.

Decisions . . .

Mrmerlin

I would not run the engine till the belt tension is checked.

Warning since your not listening to the belt tension light,
do yourself a favor and steal the ground strap off the battery and hide it away from the car.
Do the T belt tension check at your leisure........... this will give you time to wax the hood while you look at your perfect car sitting in the garage.

davek9

Look at the belt tracking through the two vent holes, is the belt near the edge of the gear, especially on 1-4 head?
Whenever t belt service is unknown and the warning light comes on ! Don't restart the engine again untill you service the engine.

IMO pull the engine, clean it, service all needed issues on a stand, then reinstall it and enjoy.
Although it sounds daunting, it' not. Is there anyone you can get to help you with the job?

Nice looking shark, S3's are my favorite example 😁

Dave K

WICruiser

It takes all of about 10 seconds to do serious engine damage if the timing belt jumps and your warning system is telling you it is ready and willing to jump at any time.

It can not be said strongly enough - DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE UNTIL THE TIMING BELT IS REPLACED!

I am in process of replacing my timing belt not because of a warning but because it is 10 year old (very few miles). It took about 3 or 4 hours to take it apart. I suspect it will take 6-8 hours to put it back together. Even at double that time you should be able to get the job done and salvage the spring/summer season.

Wisconsin Joe

Does it matter what the exact issue is?

If the belt jumps time or if it breaks, the end result is a badly damaged engine. And a lot more down time.

TB/WP is a fairly involved job, but it's not all that difficult. There are lots of very comprehensive writeups on it.

Scott Yoo has a good one here:

http://scott-yoo.com/other/tb.html

I will pile on and echo the others who say don't even fire it up until the belt is changed. Period.

Edit to add: There's a fair amount of discussion and some disagreement/controversy over the PKT. Some of it is legit, some is 'myth/legend'. I won't go into it. There is plenty of commentary on it on here. Search around a bit and do your own research.

Eplebnista

Fuel lines should be second on your list after TB/WP unless you are very confident that they have already been done.

Mrmerlin

OP you did ask for advice,
I hope your smart enough to listen to it.

GT6ixer

Second this

The Forgotten On

I'll say this. If the belt snaps, say good bye to any hope of driving the car this year and possibly losing the engine in its entirety.

Leave the car alone until you are ready to do a timing belt and waterpump job on the car. With that low of a mileage I wouldn't worry about replacing the roller bearings.

However with mileage that low the timing belt itself could be original to the car. Replace the front crank seal when doing the tp/wp as you are just one step away from getting to it.

With a car that sits like yours did I would personally pull the engine and replace all the gaskets as they are most likely dry rotted form lack of oil getting to them.

Hilton

The light coming on at high rpm's is a sign of low tension.

At this stage you need to take the belt covers off and check the belt before you start it again. A new belt is cheap, and it'll give you a good idea of the maintenance state to see whether the rubber cap on the tensioner has hardened to brittle plastic, at which point you're definitely in for replacing all the rubber bits in there.