Ken P

This got me thinking, I looked at my car and I only have a jumper in the reverse light relay socket. Relay position 22.
The Auto Trans kick down relay socket is bottom row and 3 to the left of the backup light relay jumper.

Unless a Euro is different, I am not aware of a jumper in the Auto Trans Kick down relay socket.

When I was helping Barney with his no start, there was a type 53 relay in the AT kick down socket and it was loading down the speed signal, kind of like your waveform shows.

Ken

Adamant1971

Bingo (maybe) - Sorry I was thinking about the reverse relay jumper in my earlier reply. Going back just now I did have a relay in the auto kick down slot. I removed it and cranked her over and the injectors are now firing. But I still have no tach and will re-scope the CPS signals with an adjusted frequency, my signals were very week.

buccicone

I did the same thing on the GT. Accidentally put a relay in the kickdown slot. Don't do it on a 5 speed car. Was dead until I had a second set of eyes find it.

Adamant1971

Looking at the relays I think I labeled the adjacent relay incorrectly when I removed it and it ended up back in as it was labeled. Doh!

Ken P

If the injectors are firing now, your CPS is more than likely good.
I have never noticed the tach bouncing while trying to start the car, if I was testing it for a no start condition. For an '87 and an '89, I do not recall looking when I had my '86.5, even though I had a significant no start condition on that car. It was a shorted injector plug wires, touching each other.
I would not initially troubleshoot the tachometer not moving while cranking the engine.

Adamant1971

Thanks Ken. I did check on my 87 and the tach does bounce a little before it catches.

Today I put everything back together, fixed a leaking PS feed hose and a leak at the temp 2 sensor . I also went back and tested for spark again, and all good. I tested the injectors one last time and the noid light was flashing, so all good as well.

Going back to the original no start issue I believe it was the FPR, the car did run for a few seconds initially. During my testing I believe I inadvertently put a relay in the XV socket due to them being miss labeled when I pulled them 2 years ago. So I did send myself on a bit of a goose chance during the process of investigating the no start. Last week when I pressurized the fuel system and when I pulled the vac line of the FPR fuel came out in a fast dripping nature.

Today I re-tested the fuel system with the new FPR and a fuel pressure gauge . The pressure got up to 80lbs then one of the hoses in the kit sprung a leak (the kit did not have an m12 x 1.5 fitting to fit so I had to connect with a hose and clamp). To high so back at the damper's and retunr line. (Thanks Merlin)

I'm going to call it a day.

Mrmerlin

fuel pressure should be 55 psi.
80 is too high why is this?
Did you verify that you do have a fuel pressure regulator installed?
Note The front damper the FPR look the same

Adamant1971

Cheburator

Adamant1971

Mrmerlin

when you take the FPR lines loose and either blow into or use compressed air into the return line,
see if its clogged.
NOTE remove the gas cap first, get a helper to hear the air bubbling in the tank

Adamant1971

The return hard line is totally blocked. I took everything apart and confirmed that the dampers are ok, the new GB return line is clear, the gas tank sender unit is clear as well.

So I guess I have two options. 1: Rig up a tighter connection on the return line and try to blow out whatever is blocking the line. 2: Replace the line.

Adamant1971

So I made a fitting that would allow more air pressure through the line. But still no dice, I got up to 130psi and not a single fart went through. I have the return line off the tank and a jug set up to catch the contents.

I have poured a small amount of acetone in the line from each end and will let it sit over night in the hopes that the acetone will soften up whatever is in the line. Likely old harneded fuel. Car sat for 10 years. Unless there is a better chem to use?

FredR

Adam,

The system from the fuel pressure regulator back to the tank is not intended to see a high pressure. Doubtless the components as originally installed will hopefully [?] take the normal fuel pressure but I do not know that for a fact .

As the line is blocked somewhere the fuel pressure regulator is now driving open as it tries in vain to reduce the pressure and thus in effect is useless. The fuel pump thus develops what is known as the "shut in pressure" when there is no flow thus why you report seeing 80 psig. Now the problem is if you do not know where the blockage is you do not know what components through to the tank are being exposed to this pressure and thus the danger of rupture somewhere along the line, especially so if 30 year old kit is less than perfect. Needless to say if something lets go with petrol at 80 psig that can throw a jet of liquid about 70m up into the air. In short do not run that system any further unless and until you have cleared the blockage and whatever you do, do not try to unblock it running the fuel pump with petrol in it - most unwise- not suggesting you may try to do that- just trying to ensure you understand the potential.

Even running the fuel pump with the fuel rail nut disengaged has petrol all over the engine bay in seconds and that has no pressure in the system- ask me how I know!

Adamant1971