Best 928 for home maintenance?
#16
Rest in Peace
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Penn State
Posts: 2,240
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Having owned a couple of each, I also have to echo Rich's sentiments.
A few other tidbits...
84's have the most expensive O2 sensors of all 928's.
84 wiring diagram isn't available (if I'm not mistaken didn't Wally post this recently)
84's have the flywheel sensors.
84 5 spds still have the old style synchros
84 electronics aren't readily tuneable (analog sucks)...
85+ 32v cars have harder engines to work on AFA accessibility.
85+ have digital controlers so chips can be specifically burned. More chance of LH failures.
85+ blocks lead to more choices of buildup (aka stroker)
Depending on your level of expertise (fill in the blank) it may be wiser for a newbie to stay w/ the pre-83 models.
Scott
currently have CIS, L-jet, LH-jet, KE-jet, Holley-jet, PGMi
A few other tidbits...
84's have the most expensive O2 sensors of all 928's.
84 wiring diagram isn't available (if I'm not mistaken didn't Wally post this recently)
84's have the flywheel sensors.
84 5 spds still have the old style synchros
84 electronics aren't readily tuneable (analog sucks)...
85+ 32v cars have harder engines to work on AFA accessibility.
85+ have digital controlers so chips can be specifically burned. More chance of LH failures.
85+ blocks lead to more choices of buildup (aka stroker)
Depending on your level of expertise (fill in the blank) it may be wiser for a newbie to stay w/ the pre-83 models.
Scott
currently have CIS, L-jet, LH-jet, KE-jet, Holley-jet, PGMi
#17
Nordschleife Master
Originally posted by Scott M.
currently have CIS, L-jet, LH-jet, KE-jet, Holley-jet, PGMi
currently have CIS, L-jet, LH-jet, KE-jet, Holley-jet, PGMi
Back to the thread:
I was going to post what Karl said about CIS versus the later injection systems. Doesn't tune itself. Doesn't fail all at once.
None of the models is markedly more "maintainence intensive" as they have the same timing belt schedule. Fluids, brakes and tires are not different either. A 32v engine does have twice the parts in the heads, plus a few. But same basic design of the vehicle.
Replacing the old Al baljoinst isn't nearly $500. Figure $80 for the balljoint and $25 for the adjuster, per side, for about $210. I get my car aligned regularly anyways.
#18
Nordschleife Master
84 US cars don't have fly wheel senders. 84 Euro cars do, but US cars are the same as the 83 L-jet system. Rember, 84 Euro cars ran the same type brains as the 85 and up US cars. They should have the same failure problem.
The L-jet electronic brain isn't tuneable, but the various sensors are. It's actualy not that hard to adjust the AFM to make the engine a bit rich, and then adjust the timeing on the distributer to run a bit of advance. I spent about 3 months figureing out how to undue it all because thats what a PO did to the car. It took me three months becuase nobody would talk about it. It's like it a black art or something. Hopefuly, we're going to take the black majic out of it in the near future. Also, the L-jet brain is analog, and pretty much bullet proof.
The 83 has the later high torque timeing belt as do the 84 and 85+. No worrys there.
The L-jet electronic brain isn't tuneable, but the various sensors are. It's actualy not that hard to adjust the AFM to make the engine a bit rich, and then adjust the timeing on the distributer to run a bit of advance. I spent about 3 months figureing out how to undue it all because thats what a PO did to the car. It took me three months becuase nobody would talk about it. It's like it a black art or something. Hopefuly, we're going to take the black majic out of it in the near future. Also, the L-jet brain is analog, and pretty much bullet proof.
The 83 has the later high torque timeing belt as do the 84 and 85+. No worrys there.
#19
"The best 928 for Home maintenance;"; all of them. The current reason for the prices for 928s is due to the $80/hr cost to have parts replaced (not repaired) at an exorbanite price.
Im going to be 50 in March and started with a '63 VW bug. Being short on funds I have always figured that I could fix twice for less than having it done by others once. This makes me the best mechanic I know and keeps me on the garage floor a lot. Fortunately it is a hobby now and releves more stress than it creates..
If you are your intended mechanic, then have a keen eye when inspecting potential orphans. POs have abandoned (or bailed on) these cars for reasons they won't explain. 'Mechanics" will fix them for you if you can afford it. A good Home mechanic with a complete set of manuals and this web site can do almost everything except the rare engine rebuild (which they need be capable of inspecting.)
My 86.5 was owned by a person that built an immaculate 550 kit car, rebuilt 928/944 water pumps for sale, and had the 928s serviced at the dealer. His records showed the belt replaced at 60K and the 75k inspection done. I bought at 80K and the belt stripped teeth at 82K causing 2 valves to be bent (lucky!) I repaired it myselph 23K ago.
Inspect, inspect and you yourselph inspect again. Replace aluminum A arm ball joints and rebuild the timing belt/sprocket/tensioner system irrespective of any records.
You are exactly, IMHO, on the right track. Buy the cleanest you can afford.
Im going to be 50 in March and started with a '63 VW bug. Being short on funds I have always figured that I could fix twice for less than having it done by others once. This makes me the best mechanic I know and keeps me on the garage floor a lot. Fortunately it is a hobby now and releves more stress than it creates..
If you are your intended mechanic, then have a keen eye when inspecting potential orphans. POs have abandoned (or bailed on) these cars for reasons they won't explain. 'Mechanics" will fix them for you if you can afford it. A good Home mechanic with a complete set of manuals and this web site can do almost everything except the rare engine rebuild (which they need be capable of inspecting.)
My 86.5 was owned by a person that built an immaculate 550 kit car, rebuilt 928/944 water pumps for sale, and had the 928s serviced at the dealer. His records showed the belt replaced at 60K and the 75k inspection done. I bought at 80K and the belt stripped teeth at 82K causing 2 valves to be bent (lucky!) I repaired it myselph 23K ago.
Inspect, inspect and you yourselph inspect again. Replace aluminum A arm ball joints and rebuild the timing belt/sprocket/tensioner system irrespective of any records.
You are exactly, IMHO, on the right track. Buy the cleanest you can afford.
#20
Banned
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Ft. Lauderdale FLORIDA
Posts: 5,248
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
3 Posts
If I had to do it over....I'd have bought a far newer car than I did.
[I could afford a NEW 996 Turbo in 1999; I was not underpaid~]
In any case, I should have bought something far newer. I bought an '85 S2. You see, I discovered that S2's were not imported into this country...yet existed here. This attracted me due to the oddness. Then I learned how much faster the ROW cars supposedly were.
I drove several '81- 84 US model cars, and one S4 while looking for my current car. Then I took my '85 S2 for a drive. I was hooked- the wild power curve and warning lights in German had me sold!
And yet, that car, which wiggled its tail to me [I have a problem with things that eagerly wiggle their tails at me....], was not the solution to my problem. Despite that car's fun, and my enjoyment not only of driving it butt working on it...It was not a good idea. It has been a problematic car.
-I'm convinced that it is problematic primarily because it is now 19 years old. I've worked on that car, and worked on it, primarily myself. And I have NO training on working on cars. I didn't even take auto shop in high school- I took French instead!
Yet....I would bet the title of my car versus its value [$10k] to anyone that it would make it without problem from my house in Orlando to the airport in Los Angeles without problem right now. It's a well engineered car, and has had its problems worked out.
-My advice is simple: Buy a '95 928. Or, if not available, the newest, lowest mileage well-maintained [all records available] 928 you can afford.
Normy!
'85 S2 5 Speed
[I could afford a NEW 996 Turbo in 1999; I was not underpaid~]
In any case, I should have bought something far newer. I bought an '85 S2. You see, I discovered that S2's were not imported into this country...yet existed here. This attracted me due to the oddness. Then I learned how much faster the ROW cars supposedly were.
I drove several '81- 84 US model cars, and one S4 while looking for my current car. Then I took my '85 S2 for a drive. I was hooked- the wild power curve and warning lights in German had me sold!
And yet, that car, which wiggled its tail to me [I have a problem with things that eagerly wiggle their tails at me....], was not the solution to my problem. Despite that car's fun, and my enjoyment not only of driving it butt working on it...It was not a good idea. It has been a problematic car.
-I'm convinced that it is problematic primarily because it is now 19 years old. I've worked on that car, and worked on it, primarily myself. And I have NO training on working on cars. I didn't even take auto shop in high school- I took French instead!
Yet....I would bet the title of my car versus its value [$10k] to anyone that it would make it without problem from my house in Orlando to the airport in Los Angeles without problem right now. It's a well engineered car, and has had its problems worked out.
-My advice is simple: Buy a '95 928. Or, if not available, the newest, lowest mileage well-maintained [all records available] 928 you can afford.
Normy!
'85 S2 5 Speed
#21
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 825
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Okay, so I took a shot here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...gory=6432&rd=1
Should I have gone higher? How much higher? Things were turning into a bidding war and I didn't want to get crazy, but the car is the right colors, year, seems well-maintained. I've e-mailed the seller to ask what the reserve was as well. I'm interested in opinions - see anything that should have been a red flag? Thanks.
Emanuel
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...gory=6432&rd=1
Should I have gone higher? How much higher? Things were turning into a bidding war and I didn't want to get crazy, but the car is the right colors, year, seems well-maintained. I've e-mailed the seller to ask what the reserve was as well. I'm interested in opinions - see anything that should have been a red flag? Thanks.
Emanuel
#23
Nordschleife Master
Looks like a well preserved car. For the model year, I think it priced about right. Could have gone a bit higher, but I'd be surprised if it had broken $9000. Getting it back from AZ wouldn't be free either.
I'd let it go and look for something locally or regionally that you can check out.
I'd let it go and look for something locally or regionally that you can check out.
#24
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 825
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the reply. I'm thinking the car I'm looking for (Guards Red/black, 1983 though I'll accept 1984) might be too specific for much hope of a local find. The usual sources aren't turning up many 928s in Chicago, and the one's I've seen are earlier cars. In shopping, I've seen some damned nice looking black ones, and might change my mind about the color. I really want to stick with an early S, though, especially in light of some comments in this thread.
Emanuel
Emanuel
#25
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Minneapolis MN
Posts: 773
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
83-84 would be my choice just because the L-jet is analog, the ingition is seperate and the timing can be set manually. All this means that you can trouble shoot each system seperatly and isolate problems.
Also, if you want a real safety margin, go for the 78- 79s because they have non inter. engines nad can pop a timing belt w/o crashing valves. (gurus corect if I'm wrong.)- Ruf
Also, if you want a real safety margin, go for the 78- 79s because they have non inter. engines nad can pop a timing belt w/o crashing valves. (gurus corect if I'm wrong.)- Ruf
#26
Inventor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
If I had a knowed a darned thing when I came lookin' for a 9-2-8... I would have gone with an 83 or 84.
Fairly bulletproof L-Jet computer (same for 81-84), simple ignition, no airbags, no ABS, 4 speed auto trans.
4.7 liter, 9.3 compression, makes the about the same horsepower and torque - stock, as my stripped down, big exhaust 81 4.5 liter.
78-79 219/245
80-82 220/255 (often shown incorrectly as 265)
83-84 234/263
Only problem is that 2.20 final drive ratio...
Fairly bulletproof L-Jet computer (same for 81-84), simple ignition, no airbags, no ABS, 4 speed auto trans.
4.7 liter, 9.3 compression, makes the about the same horsepower and torque - stock, as my stripped down, big exhaust 81 4.5 liter.
78-79 219/245
80-82 220/255 (often shown incorrectly as 265)
83-84 234/263
Only problem is that 2.20 final drive ratio...
#27
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 825
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
One of the things impressing me in this thread is the consensus that the 928S 16-valve is the way to go; most Porschephiles I've encountered are power-mad horsepower junkies, and I wasn't expecting people to express a willingness to give up the extra 50hp or so the 85-86 models give you, especially since you can get the 32-valve models for about the same money as the 16-valvers from what I'm seeing on Autotrader. Looks like the early 928S hits the sweet spot in terms of performance and simplicity!
I was browsing my old Excellence mags looking for Bruce Anderson's remarks on the 928 and (aside from his usual bromide about buying the newest one you can find/afford) he seems to prefer the 1983-1986 models, giving the last year the win because it's got both the 32v motor and ABS.
For myself, I think I'll be happy with the performance of the 83; truth be told, I rarely need to go 150 mph anyway
Emanuel
I was browsing my old Excellence mags looking for Bruce Anderson's remarks on the 928 and (aside from his usual bromide about buying the newest one you can find/afford) he seems to prefer the 1983-1986 models, giving the last year the win because it's got both the 32v motor and ABS.
For myself, I think I'll be happy with the performance of the 83; truth be told, I rarely need to go 150 mph anyway
Emanuel
#28
get the one that comes with a trunk full of $$...
I choose an 85S due to the low (5k) initial aquisition cost, 32V heads w/room for bigger valves, but w/the 5.0L rock solid bottom end, aggressive cams and the many parts that seem to be available/ interchangable/upgradable to the legendary S4/GT/GTS specs - since I knew I'd be replacing everything eventually anyway due to the age of the car...things just oxidize, rot and/or wear out...on a 20 yr old car - lots of things do this...
the only downside MY issue I've experienced so far is that the heads use studs to mount to the block, thus requiring engine R&R for head work, but I'm going to try to use S4 style bolts when I do the motor, so next time it'll be a little ea$ier...
documentation has been good, and plenty of help from 928 Specialists, 928 international, 928 development, and of course - here...good luck!!
I choose an 85S due to the low (5k) initial aquisition cost, 32V heads w/room for bigger valves, but w/the 5.0L rock solid bottom end, aggressive cams and the many parts that seem to be available/ interchangable/upgradable to the legendary S4/GT/GTS specs - since I knew I'd be replacing everything eventually anyway due to the age of the car...things just oxidize, rot and/or wear out...on a 20 yr old car - lots of things do this...
the only downside MY issue I've experienced so far is that the heads use studs to mount to the block, thus requiring engine R&R for head work, but I'm going to try to use S4 style bolts when I do the motor, so next time it'll be a little ea$ier...
documentation has been good, and plenty of help from 928 Specialists, 928 international, 928 development, and of course - here...good luck!!
#29
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
there is something to be said for having an engine which should not bend valves if the belt or the mechanic screws up .............. all too often such an event is terminal ...the 16 valve is fast enough to get you jailed in any of the 50 states . But in my opinion ....the 1989 GT is the "best" 928 .