StratfordShark

I'm in the middle of replacing the cable on my MY91 - the old one stretched, and left me having to break in from underneath.

On my old MY88 the cable (on RHD car) ran from engine bay through top of wheel well, so you could replace it by removing offside wheel liner, moving carbon canister out the way, and then feeding new cable through grommet shared with other cables into footwell of cabin. I had to do this on the MY88 when it broke at the handle.

The MY91 is different. Only after removing wheel and liner did I discover the cable never enters the wheel well. It stays in the engine bay then enters footwell via grommet high up and to side of brake servo.

It's impossible to access that grommet from the engine bay, so either it's possible to feed the new cable into engine bay from the footwell (may be like trying to put toothpaste back in tube), or if that's not possible, I could pull out the wire from the new cable and feed it through the sheath. If I had to do that, what is the right lubricant to use on the steel cable to help it slide through?

Thanks a lot.

​​​​​​​Adrian

FredR

Good heavens- who was the previous owner- King Kong?

StratfordShark

FredR

Not the kind of thing one expects to read about. Seems these things find no end of ways to screw their owners up. Maybe some rust on the cable leading to tighter pulls being unwittingly needed?

V2Rocket

you're asking about the best way to go about "pushing rope"...

is there any reason you couldn't route the replacement cable on your 91 ala how it was routed on the 88, instead?

StratfordShark

docmirror

Tools required: Vacuum cleaner with hose attach; Crevice tool for vac hose; 6" duct tape; 6" elec tape; can of WD-40: 10mm wrench/socket and ratchet.

Procedure: Detach hood latch receiver from cross brace, withdraw cable from latch housing. From sidewall cable lever, detach swing handle from backing plate. Disconnect cable from swing handle. Place crevice tool on end of vac hose. Slide crevice tool over the end of the interior cable, at least 3" beyond black cable housing. Use duct tape to seal slot in crevice tool around cable housing, creating an air-tight seal to cable housing. At the outside end of cable, use the electrical tape to tape the WE-40 straw end to the cable spiral where it enters the ferrule of the cable end, at an approx 45deg angle to the spiral cable. Straw should be aimed at the cable ferrule. Turn on vac. Hold outside cable and WD-40 straw and can asm vertical. Spritz WD-40 sparingly. Actuate outside spiral cable end back and forth along tape seal while pinching the sheath ferrule to work the lube into the cable end. Continue spritzing as needed. Remove vac, crevice tool, tape, from the interior cable. Remove elec tape and WD-40 from outside cable. Re-attach both ends of cable to latch asm, and operating handle.

StratfordShark

This is simple and smart, thanks. But in my case one solution I was thinking of was pulling out the old stretched wire cable spiral, and pushing new wire down the sheath from interior to exterior. But it sounds like I can just wipe down the new cable with some WD40 and it will help it through. But this will be useful if I try to withdraw the old inner cable, and leave the outer sheath in place.

Before I do that, I'm going to try pulling the complete brand new cable through duct-taped to the old one.

I'm sure Porsche must have given some thought to replacing the cable in the arrangement applying to my MY91 RHD car, so there must be a fairly simple solution!