'93 GTS on BAT - the longest 2 minutes of the day
#31
Instructor
#32
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Interesting topic - these rub strips.
Not being a fan of the rub strips, I deleted them from my silver 90 GT, it was a PITA for sure.
This is news that only two of the 91 USA GT's came without rub strips.
So... my 1 of 1 wide body 1991 GT is also 1 of 2 without rub strips. The lack of rub strips was one of many factors that attracted me to this car...
Thanks again to U-Boat Steve for this photo and so much more...
Not being a fan of the rub strips, I deleted them from my silver 90 GT, it was a PITA for sure.
This is news that only two of the 91 USA GT's came without rub strips.
So... my 1 of 1 wide body 1991 GT is also 1 of 2 without rub strips. The lack of rub strips was one of many factors that attracted me to this car...
Thanks again to U-Boat Steve for this photo and so much more...
Last edited by 928 GT R; 12-13-2017 at 11:22 PM.
#34
I ditched the rub strips on my 90 model as well... and the US side marker lights. and the rear wiper. and the wing.... and the rear seats....
#35
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Out, damned rubstrips, out I say!
#36
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So... basically, the rub strips rub you the wrong way?
#37
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#38
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Ok, here's a shot of my 90 GT with the Rub Rails and about 400lbs of other items "DELETED"
Ahhhhh, gone with the wind...
Ahhhhh, gone with the wind...
#40
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#42
#43
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You guys need to come visit me. I could have had the entire car repainted holes welded shut, rub strips removed, windows out and concours condition for a lot less.
#44
Instructor
Depends on how it's done. The best way is to find someone who can fill the mounting holes very carefully with a welder, then refinish the surface and repaint. Because there are holes on the rear quarter, door, and front quarter, this is not an insignificant effort, so it's probably better to wait until the car needs some bodywork refreshing anyway. The welding must be done exceptionally carefully to avoid deforming the panels due to heat. But you end up with a factory-equivalent metal surface when you're done.
The simpler way is to use body filler (i.e. Bondo) and just repaint the affected areas, blending the paint into the adjacent paint still on the panel.
A good body shop can do the first job, both sides, over the course of 4-5 days, depending on paint cure time, multiple coats, etc. In a pinch the second job could probably be done over a couple of days, but with fewer overall hours required.
So in round numbers, probably anywhere from $1k at the bargain end up to $3-4k depending on how fastidious your body guy is.
The simpler way is to use body filler (i.e. Bondo) and just repaint the affected areas, blending the paint into the adjacent paint still on the panel.
A good body shop can do the first job, both sides, over the course of 4-5 days, depending on paint cure time, multiple coats, etc. In a pinch the second job could probably be done over a couple of days, but with fewer overall hours required.
So in round numbers, probably anywhere from $1k at the bargain end up to $3-4k depending on how fastidious your body guy is.
#45
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