CardinalCar

Add one of the 90s to the "formerly" category, I had mine removed. A surprising amount of work to fill in the holes correctly!

928 GT R

Interesting topic - these rub strips.

Not being a fan of the rub strips, I deleted them from my silver 90 GT, it was a PITA for sure.

This is news that only two of the 91 USA GT's came without rub strips.

So... my 1 of 1 wide body 1991 GT is also 1 of 2 without rub strips. The lack of rub strips was one of many factors that attracted me to this car...
Thanks again to U-Boat Steve for this photo and so much more...

James Bailey

I recall that the GTS stub 1/4 panel rub strip was surprisingly expensive as a new replacement part........

Bigfoot928

I ditched the rub strips on my 90 model as well... and the US side marker lights. and the rear wiper. and the wing.... and the rear seats....

Rob Edwards

Out, damned rubstrips, out I say!

worf928

So... basically, the rub strips rub you the wrong way?

JWise

...and I have one of the other two. Mine appears to be the earliest VIN without them.

928 GT R

Ok, here's a shot of my 90 GT with the Rub Rails and about 400lbs of other items "DELETED"



Ahhhhh, gone with the wind...

77tony

delete....

SwayBar

Your paint is perfect...!

How much does it cost to delete the rub strips?

John Speake

11 years since last cam belt change...

Bigfoot928

10 to 15K

cobalt

You guys need to come visit me. I could have had the entire car repainted holes welded shut, rub strips removed, windows out and concours condition for a lot less.

CardinalCar

Depends on how it's done. The best way is to find someone who can fill the mounting holes very carefully with a welder, then refinish the surface and repaint. Because there are holes on the rear quarter, door, and front quarter, this is not an insignificant effort, so it's probably better to wait until the car needs some bodywork refreshing anyway. The welding must be done exceptionally carefully to avoid deforming the panels due to heat. But you end up with a factory-equivalent metal surface when you're done.

The simpler way is to use body filler (i.e. Bondo) and just repaint the affected areas, blending the paint into the adjacent paint still on the panel.

A good body shop can do the first job, both sides, over the course of 4-5 days, depending on paint cure time, multiple coats, etc. In a pinch the second job could probably be done over a couple of days, but with fewer overall hours required.

So in round numbers, probably anywhere from $1k at the bargain end up to $3-4k depending on how fastidious your body guy is.

hacker-pschorr

And the color.
SwayBar's car is black and in impeccable shape. Matching / blending that will be a piece of cake requiring less tear down and blending into the surrounding areas.