Jerry Feather

I actually see a down side to this suggestion. First, if I were to set any kind of deposit large enough to accomplish the intended purpose I think it will stifle some of the use of the kits. Then, given what you guys seem to think is the nature of too many of our fellow enthusiasts, I can envision someone more likely thinking that for what they have put down as a deposit, they might just as well keep the kit and consider it a fair trade, as if they had just bought it. In fact I tend to think that is more likely than any of our guys stealing or just neglecting to return a kit.

As to such a kit or kits for the earlier style threads, I haven't given that much thought, but I think I will look into it.

Kevin in Atlanta

If there were a chance we could do a group buy, I'd buy a tap for my fellow late model owners in the southeast.

M. Requin

I have come around to agree with your ideas on deposits. As for the quote I got, it was from e-taps.com (a Google find to be sure, but obviously not as good as yours) and here are the specs. IIRC it was the right size for my 86.5:

We are pleased to offer RD20x1/8” knuckle parallel tap as follows:
SPECIFICATIONS:
- material of tap(s): HSS (M2) steel
- ground thread and shank
- thread tolerances per DIN 405-1
- straight fluted
- taps linear dimensions per DIN 376 or DIN 352 standard
- tools are manufactured in our mfg. plant in Europe
- prior to ordering please provide application (quoted tap is for standard material and standard depth):
1 = TYPE of MATERIAL BEING TAPPED.
2 = THRU OR BLIND HOLE.
3 = HOW DEEP IS YOUR THREADED HOLE.

Jerry Feather

I took the tow eye out of my 79 tool kit just to verify and compare it with the threads on the later tow eye. Now I wonder just how much difference there might be in the need to remove any plug in the front hole and to clean the threads up in it. In other words, I kind of wonder why the 2012 thread about this subject, started by JP, has so little discussion about any related problem with the early cars, and why there is not a lot of discussion about early car guys trying to get on the loaner list, which I guess is the same thing.

Any further thoughts about the need for a similar loaner program for the smaller tap and associated items for the early smaller thread tow eye holes?

Jerry Feather

What do you mean by a group buy?

dr bob

Thoughts based on what I've seen so far:

-- I used a 5/8" S&D bit as the last in a progression of bits to remove the old aluminum. A left-hand version might be interesting if you can find one. My car has led a very sheltered life (literally) but no amount of easy-out'ing at any hole size along the way was able to move what was left of the plug.

-- The threaded sleeve that is the part attached to the bumper support area is not threaded all the way through on my car. It's not a blind hole, but has a small hole at the back. With that in mind, the final thread clean-out needs to be done with the equivalent of a bottoming tap. Take a look in the hole there and look at how deep the the threads are in the sleeve vs the back end, and how the tow eye piece has a stub sticking out. Gives you an idea of the relationships in the space.

-- For those playing along at home, you must religiously avoid breaking off hard tooling in the aluminum plug. I twisted and snapped an impact-rated Allen driver bit in there, so I had the fun if drilling a series of 1/8" holes around the broken tool to get it out. It twisted in the aluminum so the broken stub really didn't want to come out. Things you really don't want to break off in there include drill bits, allen drivers or keys, Easy-Outs, or your big toe. Learn from my mistake and experience.

Other notes: The hole in the back of the threaded sleeve/receiver offers a way to get your favorite penetrating fluid inside. If you still have the nose flaps (S4+ to 1990ish) you'll be spraying through a tube from inside the nose area. It --may-- be possible to get to that hole with a carefully bent-but-not-kinked extension tube on your spray can. Because these are dissimilar metals with galvanic corrosion involved, the standby ATF+Acetone penetrating lubricant won't help much. Think Aero Kroil or similar.

Grease or anti-seize in the cleaned threads, followed by the rubber plug pacifier thing, will help keep the corrosion devils at bay.

Kevin in Atlanta

Misuse of term group buy? I'd like one I guess?

Rob Edwards

He means that if you've found a good source in Poland and they're amenable to selling more than one, perhaps there can be some economy of scale/savings on shipping. Since essentially every 928 needs the plug drilled out, I would be interested in having my own tap were such a group buy opportunity to occur.

jpitman2

The reason my initial post on this related only to the later 20mm towing eyes was that I had a local 928'er raise the corroded thread issue, and I had access to some very clever tool makers where I worked, with whom I got on well, and we did favours for each other. Two owners of later cars used the tap here in Oz before it was shipped to the US - one of which I personally worked on. I have never seen a post about the 15mm thread needing work, as it is in a more sheltered location, and covered by a plug in the front bumper. My 83 spent 10 years in the UK, and its threads are fine - the eye was used twice to get the car onto flatbeds. I believe the female thread is not cut, but formed by stamping the relevant panels over something with the form of the thread - have a close look in there.

E150 before tax here http://www.gewindebohrer.de/shop/cat...-20-x-1-8.html
and here https://www.voelkel-shop.com/en/mach...ind-holes.html
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k

Jerry Feather

OK, I don't think we would need to go into what is usually thought of as a group buy, because it appears that I can order just about any number of the taps that I might want. I have increased my request for a quote now to 10 and will get the quote monday morning. The previous price break was at 5 so I am kind of hoping there might be another one for 10. In any case the taps will not be made and ready to ship until mid to late January.

The taps that I am having quoted are designed for re-threading or clean-out of existing threads. That may be why they are not as expensive as Martin's quote, but my source is the same as his.

So, now the question is how many should I in fact order. Or, to put it another way, for about $120 shipped, who here wants to have their own tap? Three of you have expressed an interest, and that is why I have tentatively increased my order/request for a quote, but before I place the actual order next week how many more of you are out there? That is for the tap alone and not for whatever I finally come up with as a "kit."

SeanR

Count me in Jerry.

Jerry Feather

OK, Sean, you are in, together with Kevin and Rob E. I got the quote today and the price is down to just under $90 per tap if I order 10. I don't see any other interest, so I'm going to place the order later today.

The largest drill I can find that is Left Hand Twist is .600 or 15.25mm. I have ordered some of those to possibly put into a kit. I will have to turn the shank down to 3/8 inch since I doubt that anyone has a drill motor with a large enough chuck to drive it.

I have one of the aluminum plugs stuck in the front hole of the 928 that I will be doing the bodywork on for the Radical Custom, so I first tried to remove it with the allen wrench that fits tightly. I think it is an SAE size and I had to drive it in. It will not move the plug; so I pulled the wrench out and whacked the plug several times with a hammer and then drove the wrench in again. I think the plug is actually moving now, but only about 3 or 4 thousandths and then it it solid again, solid enough to allow me to twist the hex hole round.

Now I am wondering if when I drill the plug with a 3/8 inch drill it might be removed either after some whacks on the easyout and/or with an impact driver on the easyout. If not then I'll drill it next with the .600 Left twist bit and try the easyout again, unless the easyout is not then big enough to lock in the hole.

What I am trying to do is find, for myself, the best way to remove a frozen plug; and it may turn out that resorting to the 21/32 inch Silver and Deming bit with Right Hand Twist is still going to be the only way. If so, that is what I'll be putting in the "kits."

Kevin in Atlanta

Awesome!

macerl

Have been in PM contact with CraigL in the past few weeks about borrowing his tap. He has responded in the affirmative and requested my mailing address.
Shared that with him and am now waiting for his reply.
I expect he will request some type of reasonable deposit, to which I will certainly agree. Also expect to pay for shipping fees to me and return to him.
With the amount of forum traffic on this subject it certainly seems reasonable to have more than one of these taps available.
I am not in the 928 repair business (other than working on my own car) so I do not plan on getting my own permanent copy.
Have ordered and received a new tow eye and rubber plug from Pelican Parts..
My front socket is full of aluminum debris that I cannot budge, so I certainly need a loaner now. My aft socket is fine,

BTW, I queried the vendor who was offering tow eyes on Ebay about how he could offer an item that fit all years. He kept replying that his item would fit my car, but would not elaborate on the disparity of tow eye sizes.
/r MaceRL, 1990 GT.

Jerry Feather

I placed the order for some of the taps this morning, so the offer in what might have been a sort of "group buy" is closed. I am also gathering the additional pieces for the kits I have in mind. The taps will not likely be here until late in January, so I have plenty of time to develop the kits.