Time for a brake rotor debate? MY 1990
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Time for a brake rotor debate? MY 1990
I probably have another 6 months left on my brakes, and then it will be time for new rotors and pads. planning ahead....
there are many options for rotors and would love to get some feedback on what might be a best choice
are factory rotors "plain" without being cross drilled or slotted?
I don't track my car, but do like to take her out for a spirited drive, so I assume consensus would be that "plain" rotors would be just fine??
the coolness of cross drilled rotors is very seductive. my concern are the stories about spider cracks developing around the holes. or does that only happen with severe use?
are cross drilled holes and slots only for the track?
comments?
there are many options for rotors and would love to get some feedback on what might be a best choice
are factory rotors "plain" without being cross drilled or slotted?
I don't track my car, but do like to take her out for a spirited drive, so I assume consensus would be that "plain" rotors would be just fine??
the coolness of cross drilled rotors is very seductive. my concern are the stories about spider cracks developing around the holes. or does that only happen with severe use?
are cross drilled holes and slots only for the track?
comments?
#2
I probably have another 6 months left on my brakes, and then it will be time for new rotors and pads. planning ahead....
there are many options for rotors and would love to get some feedback on what might be a best choice
are factory rotors "plain" without being cross drilled or slotted?
I don't track my car, but do like to take her out for a spirited drive, so I assume consensus would be that "plain" rotors would be just fine??
the coolness of cross drilled rotors is very seductive. my concern are the stories about spider cracks developing around the holes. or does that only happen with severe use?
are cross drilled holes and slots only for the track?
comments?
there are many options for rotors and would love to get some feedback on what might be a best choice
are factory rotors "plain" without being cross drilled or slotted?
I don't track my car, but do like to take her out for a spirited drive, so I assume consensus would be that "plain" rotors would be just fine??
the coolness of cross drilled rotors is very seductive. my concern are the stories about spider cracks developing around the holes. or does that only happen with severe use?
are cross drilled holes and slots only for the track?
comments?
No spider cracks at all. And I don't drive easy.
But Brakelabs stopped selling them.
#3
Zimmerman cross drilled from roger. You will be happy.
#6
Rennlist Member
External leather contracting band sir. What else is there?
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#8
Rennlist Member
#9
Rennlist Member
I do not like drilled rotors. They tear up pads, can't be milled, and do nothing for performance. They also tend to develop cracks at the holes, Adam's experience notwithstanding. Racers use them as a weight saving item - holes lower the mass.
The best for dissapating brake heat is a plain non-drilled, non-slotted rotor. There is some argument that slotted rotors allow built up gases to escape, but there is plenty of literature out there that debunks that too. For my track car, I go with full smooth rotors, and do not suffer on bit from fade or other brake issues.
The best for dissapating brake heat is a plain non-drilled, non-slotted rotor. There is some argument that slotted rotors allow built up gases to escape, but there is plenty of literature out there that debunks that too. For my track car, I go with full smooth rotors, and do not suffer on bit from fade or other brake issues.
#10
Nordschleife Master
#11
I ran a single set for 3 pad changes and only at the end of the last set did I start to see cracking. Then again the rotors were past the spec'd thickness too.
I like them for the looks only as it is, mines not seen the track since 2008.
I like them for the looks only as it is, mines not seen the track since 2008.
I do not like drilled rotors. They tear up pads, can't be milled, and do nothing for performance. They also tend to develop cracks at the holes, Adam's experience notwithstanding. Racers use them as a weight saving item - holes lower the mass.
The best for dissapating brake heat is a plain non-drilled, non-slotted rotor. There is some argument that slotted rotors allow built up gases to escape, but there is plenty of literature out there that debunks that too. For my track car, I go with full smooth rotors, and do not suffer on bit from fade or other brake issues.
The best for dissapating brake heat is a plain non-drilled, non-slotted rotor. There is some argument that slotted rotors allow built up gases to escape, but there is plenty of literature out there that debunks that too. For my track car, I go with full smooth rotors, and do not suffer on bit from fade or other brake issues.
#12
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#13
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Isn't there also a difference between 'cross-drilled' and 'cast-in holes'? The latter supposedly better resisting the cracking?
Also, what's the true story on machining rotors with holes? Not that many of us ever turn our rotors, since the min spec is usually 2 mm below new and turning a rotor normally takes 1 mm off each side
Also, what's the true story on machining rotors with holes? Not that many of us ever turn our rotors, since the min spec is usually 2 mm below new and turning a rotor normally takes 1 mm off each side