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Roger Tyson supplied with me a kit to repair the CV boots-- and in the kit were 2 packages each of two different types of grease:
1) "Genuine grease for constant velocity joints GKN-BruMoly CE 1/2"
2) "Genuine grease for constant velocity joints (MoS2)"
Are these interchangeable? I have four packages of each and it seemed rather deliberate that there were different types. Does one type go for the boot to the transmission, the other for the boot to the wheel?
There is actually a different grease for tripods vs CV, I think the more moly is CV because.... too much moly might cause the tripods to slide rather than turn?
The way I removed my axle nut was to jack the corner of the car up, remove the tire, and use the weight of the car to push on the breaker bar by lowering the car on the breaker bar handle. Very easy!
The way I removed my axle nut was to jack the corner of the car up, remove the tire, and use the weight of the car to push on the breaker bar by lowering the car on the breaker bar handle. Very easy!
Roger Tyson supplied with me a kit to repair the CV boots-- and in the kit were 2 packages each of two different types of grease:
1) "Genuine grease for constant velocity joints GKN-BruMoly CE 1/2"
2) "Genuine grease for constant velocity joints (MoS2)"
Are these interchangeable? I have four packages of each and it seemed rather deliberate that there were different types. Does one type go for the boot to the transmission, the other for the boot to the wheel?
Scott,
I doubt it will make any difference which one you use but the smart thing to do is contact Roger to affirm what the intent was- I suspect it was just a question of what was available in the warehouse at the time of dispatch but good to check with him.
The way I removed my axle nut was to jack the corner of the car up, remove the tire, and use the weight of the car to push on the breaker bar by lowering the car on the breaker bar handle. Very easy!
When I inquired about this damned nut in my early rookie days (I'm now in my late rookie days), one interesting suggestion was to drive the car to a truck repair outfit, get them loosened, then drive home carefully, et cetera.
I had failed even with a borrowed 3/4-inch impact wrench. The solution, as recommended most often, was to get a 3/4-inch set from Harbor Freight, plus a long piece of pipe. I had to visit someone with a press to get the center spider pieces off the shaft. Both operations were much more difficult than Dwayne's write-up suggested.
Another tidbit emerged: Porsche considers these nuts for one-time use only. They are probably re-used very often, but I've read no reports of wheels falling off. They don't actually hold the wheel on, of course, they just keep the axle snug in the splines.
One newbie tip: Observe and photograph the inside of the CV joint after disassembly and during removal of the inside parts. The large ball bearings need to reinstalled in a specific order or they will seize instantly, and I mean right there in your hand, not after installation. Drop the last one in place and (snick) locked up tight. The WSM has the description of reassembly for reference, I believe.
Also the new boots will help with your vocabulary, but not in a good way. There is a plastic cup method some people use but I didn't find it helpful/did it wrong?
Worf928 was the brains and experience behind this job. IMO he gave me the CV grease task to see how much of a mess I would make, and also got the bearings unlocked and correctly reinstalled. If he hadn't helped I would have thrown the parts into the woods. Thanks Dave!
You only need to get the inner end off to change both boots. The inner CV joint comes apart and then the outer boot gets slid all the way down. You have to do the work under the car but it's an option.
This is what I use.....600ft lb torque wrench. No cheater bars, no torque multipliers, no math.
Unbolts anything.....or shears it off. Either way the fastener comes off
The common wizzdumb is that we try to avoid using torque wrenches for loosening tight stuff, critical if the loosening breakaway torque exceeds the capacity of the wrench. Not an issue with the 600 lb/ft capacity wrench I suppose.
Originally Posted by GlenL
Excuse me if this has been mentioned but...
You only need to get the inner end off to change both boots. The inner CV joint comes apart and then the outer boot gets slid all the way down. You have to do the work under the car but it's an option.
Getting the outer boot off probably isn't too tough with it in place, and might be OK if you are changing the outer "just because". If it has failed though, it's virtually impossible to clean and repack the outer joint without getting it out of the car. For sure fitting the clamps can be a serious chore with the axle in place; most end up trying to set the clamp with diagonal-cutter pliers since the proper tool won't fit in there. At least the one I have.
Originally Posted by Adk46
....
Another tidbit emerged: Porsche considers these nuts for one-time use only. They are probably re-used very often, but I've read no reports of wheels falling off. They don't actually hold the wheel on, of course, they just keep the axle snug in the splines.
The nut also maintains proper preload on the rear wheel bearings, pinching the two inner races together. Of course, by the time it lets go and the wheel has tried to exit the car, the brake disk has eaten the outside half of the caliper and the tire has worked its magic on the fender too. I daresay that there's a pretty significant potential for damage. Last I looked the axle nuts were relatively cheap. I should keep spares in the bin-- added to my "next order" list.
10-01-2017, 08:42 PM
