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924/931/944/951/968 Forum Porsche 924, 924S, 931, 944, 944S, 944S2, 951, and 968 discussion, how-to guides, and technical help. (1976-1995)
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944S2 16v 3.0 E85 MS3PRO 6662 build. Plus questions.

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Old 06-13-2017, 05:36 AM
  #16  
333pg333
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You really need to do some more research. Not being a dick or anything. As Spencer says, there are a lot of variances to these motors. They're not really designed for high boost at all. You can improve your chances but it all comes down to finance$ !! Having said that, you can put together a nice not too crazy build that can be fast. You've already found the refresh951 thread. I'd also look at JET951's thread here: https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...-together.html

Of course you can spend a lot more money. (Ask me how I know)
Old 06-13-2017, 10:47 AM
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odonnell
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If you're going to tear it down to build it, I highly recommend aftermarket rods. I got a set of Molnars new for under $430 shipped, through a vendor right here in the USA. 951 rods are strong but usually come with an unknown fatigue life.

FWIW I've read from a few credible people that stock cast rods are stronger than a lot of people give them credit for. But that doesn't mean they're fit for purpose.
Old 06-13-2017, 11:53 AM
  #18  
V2Rocket
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Originally Posted by Alr11606
Thanks for the advice... looks like shes getting torn down, might as well build it if I do...Has anyone thoroughly tested the hybrid stroker? Aluminum 4g63 rods are available in standard lengths... maybe they could help with reciprocating masses and cushion the blows at high hp.
hybrid stroker on Eagle brand H-beam 4G rods has been proven on a few engines into the 500 and 600hp range.

but again...a lot of that is simply due to the sheer displacement of the 944 engines which is the strong suit. the highest boost i can recall ever seeing someone run here was 27psi but that was on a 100mm bore engine and it didn't live long. the 944 block has a problem that the head studs are so far apart and the bore so big the compression forces will actually lift the cylinder head off the block if you go too high on boost or timing, and there goes your head gasket.

IIRC that 3.1L engine i linked you to earlier made something around 600hp at 18psi @6000rpm.

also you can't really make a 944 engine rev past say 6500 without being prepared to break something due to the oiling system. a dry sump setup will "almost cure that" but that's going to be maybe $5k on its own.
Old 06-25-2017, 12:33 PM
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Alr11606
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Ok I've done some more research and I'm going to stick with this turbo and go ahead and mock everything up and get it running on the standalone, Then pull and rebuild.

Here is my small progress so far, I'm waiting to buy the Broadfoot GTX mount pedestal on Monday so I can mount the turbo and get all the tubing routed and finish the rest of the intake. I'm also waiting on CEP to get to me on the AOS delete.

It's my first real project TIG welding aluminum so I'm steadily learning more as I weld more.

Pics of what I have so far.







While I have the engine apart I will probably have the block and head drilled/tapped for a set of dukes 9/16 head studs.
Old 06-26-2017, 01:21 AM
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Arominus
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If the bores are good, leave them alone, having to bore and re-alusil the block adds a lot of cost.
Old 06-26-2017, 12:53 PM
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Raceboy
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Stock S2 engine with milled down pistons (to reduce CR) and 951 rods is good for at least 500-550 hp. Unless you are planning to go to track and do endurance racing.
Old 06-30-2017, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Raceboy
Stock S2 engine with milled down pistons (to reduce CR) and 951 rods is good for at least 500-550 hp. Unless you are planning to go to track and do endurance racing.

i didn't wanna hear that.

now you got me looking for those...
Old 07-02-2017, 02:21 AM
  #23  
Alr11606
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If your going to take the pistons out and take the budget route might as well put some Molnar rods in... but that's just my uneducated opinion. Not disputing that 951 rods can take it...its just one of those might as well things that are still in budget.
Old 07-02-2017, 05:00 AM
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ealoken
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Originally Posted by Arominus
If the bores are good, leave them alone, having to bore and re-alusil the block adds a lot of cost.

Im going to try nikasil treatment on a block, it might be a trick.
Old 07-11-2017, 12:54 PM
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This is a cool thread, following now.
Old 07-12-2017, 07:49 PM
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333pg333
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With such a large turbo getting lighter rods wouldn't hurt.
Old 07-12-2017, 08:05 PM
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Alr11606
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Originally Posted by 333pg333
With such a large turbo getting lighter rods wouldn't hurt.
333pg333

What outside of a drysump can I do to at least feel semi comfortable using it fully to 6800-7000rpm?

baffled sump? 20w60?

thanks,
-Austin
Old 07-12-2017, 08:13 PM
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Connecting rods that don't have the mass of a small planet (stock 951)
Old 07-14-2017, 12:26 AM
  #29  
333pg333
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Originally Posted by Alr11606
333pg333

What outside of a drysump can I do to at least feel semi comfortable using it fully to 6800-7000rpm?

baffled sump? 20w60?

thanks,
-Austin
Personally I would say for the price of a new set of rods/pistons it is really worth considering for your build. Try Wossner through Racers Edge. Failing that, baffling the sump can help. Plenty of oil cooling and a decent weight oil with plenty of ZDDP in it will never hurt. I think with that big turbo you're going to have to boost and rev it quite high to get any benefit.
Old 07-15-2017, 03:07 PM
  #30  
Alr11606
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Well as I'm stripping the front of the car to fit the Larger radiator, oil cooler, and Intercooler. Another question came up involving the oil, since the S2 like the 951 has an oil thermostat would an oil cooler that is pretty much as big as possible be a good bet? I'm going to mount in the the "stock" location.

Currently removing everything to cut the front support out and replace with tubes to give me more room/ options.


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