I'm in the final throws of rebuilding my '89 S2 and I planned a power steering delete using a "de-powered" rack. My question is, how much of the old plumbing should be removed on the first pass? I'd like to try the de-powered rack before I fully commit to it.

I have the pump out of course and also the P/S fluid tank, but getting the hard line to the oil cooler and the cooler itself out looks like a pretty large job that may involve removing the front nose panels and chin spoiler. I'm thinking of just blocking the line that connects to the rack with something and leaving the cooler and hard lines installed.

Anyone done that? Suggestions? Advice?

Thanks,

 

The very easiest method for "trying" is to connect a hose from one side to the other of the rack (using the pipes at the rack that were once used for fluid). That's what I'm using. Awesome for when you are up to speed, but stiff for very slow.

 

It's been a while now, so I don't remember all the details, but when I swapped my manual rack, I removed all the PS plumbing. It was a PITA but I didn't have to remove any body panels (except the engine tray if you still happen to have one, I guess).
I may have cut some of the rubber lines to make removal easier but I kept all hard lines intact in case I ever wanted to have puddles of power steering fluid on my driveway again.

 

Ha! Well not on the floor, but you got a solid laugh out of that one.

I was thinking something similar, cutting the soft lines since I'd need to replace them anyway if I ever went back to power. Seems like it would be a good compromise.

Thanks for relating your experience,

 

I actually rebuilt/de-powered the rack I'm installing, I kept the original power rack in case I decide to re-build it. The method I used is here:

https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...ring-rack.html

This is a track car rather than DD so I don't have high expectations of its performance in a parking lot, but I do need to get it down my private drive (about 1/4 mile with a very tight switchback) and in and out of the garage without tearing any pectoral muscles.

 

BTW Noah, I've been told by several folks that method really doesn't demonstrate the difference in feel. There's a wiper piston inside the rack that will make turning difficult. The entire rack needs to be disassembled and the piston removed. Then the two spools that open and close the hydraulic assist gates need to be locked to eliminate extra play in the steering.

If you look at the page I referenced above you'll see the whole thing.

Regards,

 

I've tried simply taking off the PS belt (2 different cars, for a week or two each). And now on my track-oriented 951, the PS pump/tank/lines are all deleted and the rack has been properly depowered. I notice no difference.

Also, I don't get depowering a PS system because of leaks. You can fix all of the leaks for $200 and some time (the same time it would take to depower it), and it'll last for years. I really miss PS, I depowered mine to keep the engine bay simple and to feel the front tires' feedback better, I may go back to PS some day. Just my 2 cents.

 

I depowered by disassembly. It felt a lot better than just removing the belt. The only time it's a PITA is parking but not horrible. Right now I have more sticky tires on so that increases the effort.

Maybe someday I'd go back but honestly it's a lot of fun.

 

That's my concern also and why I'm interested in doing minimal work to try this before I commit. I bought a surplus PS rack and rebuilt it using the procedure I mentioned for manual use, but if I don't like it I want to re-install the PS rack with little or no drama.

I've decided to cut the PS system out at the soft boundaries since these hoses would have to be replaced during a re-build anyway. I'll keep the pump and console hardware (in a box, off the car of course). It looks like the tank may be salvageable too.

This is a track car, not a DD so when you say you like the "feel [of] the front tires' feedback better" you're pretty much re-enforcing my decision. Like I say, I still need to get it in and out of the shop and I'd like to drive it to and from the track. If it's a little hard to parallel park I can probably live with that.

 

We're on the same page CVR. I'm just looking for the best way to keep my options open.

Thanks,

 

BTW, if anyone has a lead on a compatible factory ratio manual rack for this car I could be convinced to buy you a case of beer should I be able to close a deal

 

I'm not doing it because of leaks, I'm trying to get as close as possible to a Firehawk car, none of which were equipped with PS AFAIK. So the ratio is wrong, but in two years I haven't found a factory manual rack for sale. Anywhere. Sort of like the magnesium oil pans; Unobtainium.

 

Well in that case, it sounds like the manual (er, depowered) rack is what you need! And I hope you actually like it. Parking is one thing, but holding the wheel in fast sweepers over and over can really wear you out. More fun than pumping iron though.

I have a manual rack + intermediate shaft. I could be convinced to let it go for the right price. It's from a 1983 (like most of the out there), so you'll need the 87+ tie rods, or tie rod adapters.

 

Nice. I mainly did mine because I didn't want leaks (the feedback is cool too). I will be using it for DE and have had it on the track once so far at Thompson. I know how these old PS systems are and that was one less thing that could do wrong on the track.

If I ever got crazy enough I'd look at the electric assist that I've read about. I believe it comes out of a saturn and there is an adjustable amount you can give it. Rumor was some 924 guys did do a retrofit. It would take quite a bit of modification to make it work but if you are building a race car I could see the advantage. Hot-rodders use them.

Chris

 

Scott, I got my factory manual rack from a junkyard online. They shipped it to me for... 75 bucks? Turned out to be the sport variant too. Score. I took it apart and checked all the bearings, sanded and polished any scratches out of the rack, and packed it with new grease. Took me half an hour tops. Bought the correct intermediate shaft and tie rods and boom, manual steering, sans the PS rack weight.