BReif61

I've recently had some issues with my power steering, and it got me to thinking about eliminating it. I've been seeing manual racks, when available, around $300. Not terrible, not cheap. So I went back in to the dusty corners of my brain and remembered reading about a "miata-mod" to the power steering which turns a power rack into a manual rack for "free."

Details here.

Naturally, we can't follow that verbatim, so for the bulk of the work I'd follow the Clarks Garage guide for removing the rack. The main thrust of it starts at Step 7.

Now is there something structurally different in a 944's rack to prevent one from doing this?

F40LM

Can't open the link on my iPad for some reason but for what it's worth....

The instruction link for modifying to a depowered rack has been previously posted by myself and others.

It isn't difficult and I recommend it highly to those who want to dump the power rack but don't have the $$$ for a true manual.

I have gone from power to depowed to modified depowered to a true '83 manual rack on my car.

My advice.....pick up another power rack from a local parts car that's leaking for a little of nothing. Modify it and try it on your car. You can always switch back if you like.

If no one here post the instructions PM and I can email them to you.

Take care and keep us posted.

krystar

alot of ppl have already done this. remove the ps pump, lines, reservoir. fill rack with lubricating oil or pump in grease, plug the holes. u don't even have to take the rack apart.

BReif61

This was going to be my plan; a nice CYA if nothing else.

That's the "quick and easy" way, but there is still the mechanics of the power steering in the rack itself; namely the oil seal that can create excess effort. This mod removes that seal and allows free movement of oil/grease within the tube.

F40LM

Yep remove it. That's the way it did mine. Is it JUST like a true manual rack....no. But it's real close for very little $$$.

The only reason I went to a true manual is I got another parts car that had one on it for $350. Sold the three Fuchs wheels for over that, and got a free manual rack in the process.

Michael

16valver

I've done this on my S. I did it the "correct" way by pulling things apart.

Basically this is what you do:

Pull it apart
Locate the piston
Eliminate the Piston
Eliminate all hard lines + other lines and plug holes
Molly grease the hell out of everything

THEN:
The input shaft has a sort of directional hydraulic damper that basically lets it twist in either direction about 15º, this acts as a damper of sorts.

That part needs to be eliminated or else you will have a lot of slop and play in your steering.

Pictures you say? Yep I've got em. I'll post them a little later for those who are interested. Bit busy right now.

In the mean time heres a video of me driving the car around town with the manual setup:

Money Pit 951

The power and manual racks are two different ratios. Driving a power rack w/o the assist will wear you out a little, esp if you have a smaller racing steering wheel.
If you're going to swap out for a manual rack, you'll also need to change out the steering shaft/coupler with the two universal joints. The power rack's is shorter

assh944

I wanna know more Iv driven both p/s and none p/s and mine also leaking so could be a option to take

MAGK944

There were basically three types of rack fitted to our cars, two were manuals, one is a high ratio (sports version) and the other was a lower ratio (stock). Then there is the ps rack which sits in a ratio between the two manuals. So bear in mind that a ps rack converted to manual will have a slightly quicker rack than a manual but that also means the effort on the steering wheel will be more than the stock manual. Either live with it or fit a larger steering wheel like moneypit951 suggests.

The manual rack I have on my daily driver with a slightly larger steering wheel is fine as long as you are moving, even at 5mph there is not much effort required. Parking/ reversing into tight spaces is where you will feel a huge difference. A couple of hours each day lifting weights might help

Also consider the size of wheels/tires you have at the front, stock will be ok but if you have a lot of rubber up front it will make things worse.

BReif61

This is great info; thanks!

arthropraxis

Would you happen to have the part number to the high ratio (sports version) manual rack? My car has a manual rack with a part number that does not match the part number that is commonly referenced for a manual rack.

Reimu

I did it by connecting hardlines from each side of the rack to the other and filling it with fluid.

It feels exactly how the pump version felt above 10mph, even with my front 255s. As you know parallel parking can be a bear but I don't regret it. Saves some front end weight, feels a bit more connected with the road, and you don't have to worry about leaks.

I'm staying with the stock steering wheel.

MAGK944

Sure,
Regular manual rack is 944 347 011 00,*sport version is 944 347 015 00, first used in early offset 944 turbo cup cars. Available option on regular early offset cars to MY86 for both 951 and 944. Sorry don't know the option code it was offered under.

A.M.H

Ok, so I am in the middle of rebuilding my power rack due to all the seals leaking, and before I decided to do so, I considered de-powering it. Now I am reading all of these responses, and it sounds like, in order to de-power it the correct way, you have to take it all apart and modify a couple things. Hmmmm. IMO, if you are going to go thru the trouble of having your rack out and taking it apart, why not just replace all those seals anyways, and keep the power steering. It will probably be another ten years before you get another ps leak anyways, and plus, you will still be able to easily turn your vehicle below 10mph.

MAGK944

That depends on what caused the seals to fail. If its just age then yes you could swap them out to new. A lot of times the rack shaft is scored from debris or pitted from water contamination. If the rack boots are split or have been at some time in the past there could be shaft damage that will tear up new seals fast. I've seen resealed shafts last a year and some last much longer.