951Dreams

Two things about that. 1) I need the mounting tabs for the defrost. 2) I need them strong enough to raise the hatch when released. I don't know if the Jeep ones will be able to do both???

So the popping was back today. Here's what I've figured out so far. The pop is nothing to do with steering per say. It's when the drivers side rises even 1" from rest! That's why it popped when I was jacking it, and why it pops on left turns!

I'll have to get it back up on the ramps, and see if I can get it to pop while I'm under there. Only way I'm going to figure this out!!

I didn't do anything today aside from a short drive. So no new fixes yet, but I do have about $600 of stuff in the mail! LOL But some of that is for the 87 also.

black944 turbo

The popping could be the upper strut mount, sway bar bushings, struts, ball joints, etc....You really need to jack it up and investigate. If you know the sway bar bushings are shot, start ther.

thomasmryan

it is frugal to stop the power steering fluid and oil leaks before replacing the rubber parts.

odonnell

They'll raise the hatch slowly once it's up a few inches. They're not as strong as the stock ones but that's not a bad thing, they're more gentle on the fragile lamination between the glass and steel.

The defrost should work - mine have the spade clips on them like the 944 ones do. I can find the URL where I got mine if you want a direct link. But I can't verify it works since I live in TX and I've used the defrost exactly once in 4 years.

951Dreams

If it's got the tabs, it should work. However, I FINALLY figured out where the "pin" switch for the hatch is (I had been looking!)... It's in the passenger side hatch strut! I thought it was weird I got sparks when hooking it up. Then I realized my hatch light was now on! So two light bulbs came on! However, that means whatever struts I use need tabs and a switch built into the right one.

In the mystery pop department, I was able to investigate that more today. Some rubber welcome mats from Walmart (2.50 each) fixed my sliding ramps problem. I was able to jack it while I was up under the front. The pop is so general it was not possible to locate it exactly. But I'm thinking it may be the drivers side spring? It was weird the way the sound traveled throughout the front. Wish I could have zeroed in more.

In the fix department, I swapped the hatch struts from the 87 into the 86. After finally swapping the hatch pins left to right, I was able to get the hatch to pop correctly with the key. However the power release still wouldn't pop it. So I unbuttoned the rear carpet and watched from up by the switch. I could see there wasn't much movement, and it wasn't returning all the way back to rest. Upon investigation I discovered the cable was really gummed up. Took it loose from the motor and spent some time spraying white lithium grease into the sleeve. Got it moving freely and adjusted it some. Works now. Sometimes takes two tries, but it works. I'll give it some time, then work on the hatch pins more if needed.

951Dreams

Oh, and I'm pretty sure I'm not boosting right. Charlie thought it had a bit more turbo lag than normal, and I don't think I'm really getting over 1.4 maybe 1.5 bar at full boost. MOST of the time I barely get 1 bar. Of course I need a good digital boost meter before I'm 100% sure where I'm at. Based on all I've seen, I'm pretty sure my wastegate, and turbo are all factory original. And I'm sure the whole thing is getting leaky and worn out.

However, getting that all sorted will be after I get everything else sorted. It's still plenty fun for me.

My plans for the turbo are pretty simple. If anything I just would like it spooling faster, not really running more boost. My goal is maybe a mild chip. At most, maybe a dual-port wastegate, but I don't really want to do MBC, I want EBC. I may just go with a single port WG, since I want to stay close to stock. If I wasn't pretty sure mine is shot after 30 years, I wouldn't even want to change it out.

If you do the 28 pin conversion, will a stock chip still plug in and work? I don't want to do ANYTHING that can't be turned back to 100% stock. So maybe a chip, some shims, a 3.0 fuel regulator, turbo and WG rebuild. Maybe a LBE... maybe not.

odonnell

Sounds like a lot of work. Go standalone

951Dreams

I already knew what YOUR vote would be! :P

Stock makes you itch doesn't it?? LOL

odonnell

Stock makes me stranded and have to drive my 4Runner.

and leaves power on the table

951Dreams

LOL, trust me, if I start having issues with the DME your the first person I'm hitting up!

odonnell

I'm just a cheerleader, I make zero money on anything I say.

- Full tunability
- Run any hardware you want...sensors, injectors, coils, boost control, idle valves you name it as long you can set it up in your software/ECU of choice
- tune for whatever the best grade of fuel you can get in your area
- simplify the intake system because you don't have to deal with a AFM/MAF sensor. You also are now impervious to vacuum leaks.
- Everything going on with the engine can be datalogged. So if there ever IS an issue, the software can help pinpoint the responsible culprit... be it a sensor or a mechanical issue.
- did I mention tuning? Even if you aren't able to get it to where you want it using your laptop and basic driving around, there are tons of people who can tune standalones. Based on your fuel grade of choice, your sea level relative altitude, and any mods in the car.
- further modifications are easy to compensate for. Bigger turbo, cam advance, higher FPR, big injectors, camshaft, wasted spark coils, etc. Just a few clicks
- reliability of knowing your crap is 21st century and you aren't relying on the 80s to get you home. A little less fun/adventurous in that regard I guess.

951Dreams

So a little bad news. Not unexpected really, but I can't say I'm exactly happy.

There is a dent in the panel that says Porsche under the tail lights. I knew this, PO had told me about it. Part of the reason I got it for the price I did. No big deal. When I went to pick it up, there was some... interesting... bad places in the paint on the rear quarter panel, same side the dent is on. But I already knew I'd have to repaint all that in time, once I fixed the dent. So no biggie.

As I've had more time (and more Sun/angles to look at it in) I had become pretty convinced there had been work on that panel in the past. The work itself looked really good, but I suspected it had been done with sub-par materials. And I started thinking this had been some MAJOR work. So I stopped in a local "good" body shop and we had a look...

Carfax was clean of accidents BTW. Odometer was the only thing any of the VIN checkers hit on...

Anyway, as I suspected, it had been worked, and he agreed with all my thoughts. The work itself was very good, but had been done with cheap materials. He didn't think the work was as extensive as I had feared, but admitted he wouldn't know for sure unless they dug into it. The paint match was even very good, but they had just used cheaper paint. We were looking at the hatch area and got the idea to look at the panel from the inside. Neither of us could figure out why there was that much bondo, the inside of the panel really looked fine. Like undamaged fine. Even in the areas that were caked in bondo on the outside.

Anyway, on another forum I was asked "This isn't the one from Alabama with bullet holes is it?" So now I'm wondering!!!

Anyway, wasn't good news, but could have been worse. He's pretty sure no new panels would be needed. We did check the rest of the car over, and he's pretty sure whatever damage there was likely just superficial. The body lines up good, aside from some stuff that could use some straightening just likely do to age.

The bad news, to do it RIGHT (in other words, everything removed and the best paint and materials that can be had)... 7k I was thinking 6k, but I do suppose that would be without the body work. And it would be a good chance to replace all the seals and stuff.

I'll likely do it one day. It's a little sad cause 60% of the paint is REALLY nice, and at least 70% doesn't need anything done. But I'm guessing at least a couple thousand just to repair the bad places. And since at least 20% of the car is already non-stock paint, might as well go the full Monty. In for an ounce, in for a pound!

But I'm not even considering it any time soon. Got to get all the little stuff done first. Get everything working right, not that there's tons of stuff.

Also discovered it does have a small leak somewhere that's coming in at the gap between the drivers A-pillar and the headliner. I'm thinking either the windshield or the sunroof. I'll have to look into it more. It got caught out in a downpour while I was at work, and even tho it had been in the rain several times, this is the first time it has leaked. Didn't start till I was driving, so not exactly sure how it's leaking.

Just normal 30 year old car stuff. Even if I have to repaint it, I'm still not too upside down considering the price I paid. So unless the floor falls out on these, I don't feel I'd be losing my shirt.

Noahs944

Sorry to hear of the body issue. Stick to what you are saying here... no rush to spend more money so early in the game. Enjoy it for the 8000 or whatever you have into the car now. Drive the heck out of it!!

The water leak you are describing might be tough to solve. I find the 924/944 water leaks can be baffling.

951Dreams

Roger brother!!! Number one priority!!

I wish I had your skills, I'd like to go all Gramps and Wilson on this paint and body. But I don't have the time, space, or skills for all that. And I have to admit, for now at least, this is a restoration project, not a "let's see what all I can do with it" project. I had kicked around the idea of turning this one into a Mod Rod, then working on buying a 88 S or 89 for the stock show queen. But, even with the body/paint issues she's just too nice for all that. Maybe I'll keep my eye out for a ratted one to go all crazy on.

For prosperity, I paid 7k. I really wanted it for 6k, but considering the M030 sways, new Koni sport shocks, new clutch, new waterpump and belts, new brakes and rotors, new CV axles, new front hubs, new master and slave cylinders, new brake/gearbox fluid, general good condition of interior, and full short shift kit (both at the tranny and in the shifter, plus the upgraded linkage and bushing) I really felt his price was ok. He wanted 10k, I wanted to pay 6k, we settled on 7k. I'm happy with that.

Honestly, what he said was "I'd like to get at least 7k, maybe a little less" I left that little less on the table. Normally I wouldn't have, I'm a haggler most of the time. But I really felt ok with the price. After this latest development, I'm wishing I had pushed more for closer to 6k, but I don't feel cheated. So all's good.

951Dreams

Liked this shot I got last night....