snb13

What started out as a clutch not always returning has turned in to much more. I bled the clutch and it worked fine. Then it started to not return all the way. I would just bump it all the way out with my foot. I assumed there was still air in the line. Then at the end of June, I got hurt. Didn't start driving it again until around September. Still had the same problem. Then I had another surgery early November.

By now it had developed a rotational noise when the clutch was pushed in. Then one day it seemed a little 'grabby' in first, for lack of a better description. I went to bleed it (FINALLY!) and discovered the bleed valve on the slave cylinder was weeping fluid. If fluid can get out, air can get in. Fixed that. Now, the clutch still doesn't return all the way (I used the Motive bleeder) and I have more noise. I've uploaded 2 short videos to YouTube.

Any ideas?

Video 1

Video 2

snb13

Fixed links above

Van

My guess is bad throwout bearing. It only make the noise when you step on the clutch pedal?

snb13

Yes, only with the clutch in. Also, I don't believe it's the original rubber centered clutch since I can see the name Sachs on the flywheel when I take the starter off.

Van

When you take the starter off, you're looking at the pressure plate.,not the flywheel.

The throwout bearing is what the clutch fork pushes against to move the pressure plate away from the flywheel so the clutch disk is no longer "pinched".

Go to the 32:00 mark of this video below.

snb13

LOL. Well, now you know I'm new to clutches. As others have said, I appreciate your video. I started watching it a couple weeks ago, but didn't get that far.

So I'm looking at a clutch job. What's the worst case scenario if the throwout bearing siezes while the car is running? I'm not driving it, except to move it in and out of the garage if necessary. Just curious.

I was interested in the new Spec Push clutch from Lidsey Racing, but man, the flywheel and plumbing being sold seperately from the main kit is a deal breaker. Too bad. I'd love to get rid of the slave cylinder and having to bleed the stupid thing.

Van

The Spec push kit just uses a *different* slave cylinder... Still needs to be bled and everything. The only advantage is that it does away with the clutch fork (which occasional break, and are harder to get these days).

I think, instead of the throwout bearing seizing, the bearing will come apart when it fails. If that happens, stepping on the clutch pedal will do nothing, because there's nothing for the fork to grab onto to open the pressure plate. But I don't think it'll damage any of the other parts you'll be replacing anyway (e.g. guide tube, pressure plate, clutch disk, etc.).

snb13

And there's no way to get some lubrication up there as a stop gap, is there?

Van

Only if you take it *all* apart!

odonnell

Learn from my blunder and get the clutch kit from a reputable vendor, the major ones for 944 stuff are well known. I got one on ebay (Sachs) and it had slop in the clutch center. It's doing fine but I wish I had spent the extra $80 to get a kit from paragon or something.

snb13

Good to know.

tempest411

The ones you get from Paragon, 944Online, etc., are all Sachs I thought. I bought a Sachs from FCP Euro and it looks good. I don't have a running car yet, so not installed yet...