Van

Here's a video showing how I do my camshaft timing on a 16-valve car (this one is a 944 S).

You start out with the cam gear close to the mark when piston #1 is at TDC. Then, with the dial indicators - one on piston #1 and one on an intake lifter on #4, turn the engine over clockwise until you get to the desired lifter position.

Now loosen the cam gear - this will let you move the crankshaft *without* moving the camshafts. Move the crank just a little bit so the piston is right at TDC. Tighten the cam gear, and check your work!

V2Rocket

It took me a solid day of pondering after reading the WSM procedure to wrap my head around the process, prior to actually doing it.

No joke, sitting in a quiet spot with no distractions but a cup of coffee and pondering cam-crank synchronization and intake valve position.

It's pretty straight forward once you're in the car, but this video should be a great aid.

jhowell371

Here's a question maybe one of you guys can answer. How come the S/S2 engines use a cam chain tensioner when the DOHC 16V engine in my old Sirocco didn't use one, just a chain running between the cams. It was still going strong after 17 years and 132,000 miles with two timing belt replacements at the factory recommended 60,000 mile intervals.

V2Rocket

Not familiar with that engine, but a "solid" or "mechanical" tensioner can work, it's just not ideal and wears on the chain more. Old 911's made for racing had such items fitted.

Think of it like the 944 timing belt...the belt is set to tension when cold but can't compensate for thermal expansion of the engine or belt loading due to RPM changes aside from the natural stretchiness/flexibility of the belt material itself.

An "automatic" tensioner like the 944S/S2 uses for its chain (and the 968 uses for its timing belt) makes it a lot easier on all the components involved because it can take up (and let out) the slack under different conditions.

Van

I'd also think that the hydraulic tensioner might run quieter or make the car more "luxurious".

CVR_Rally

Interesting Van I thought the measurement was done on intake valve one not four. Thanks for the video!

Van

It doesn't matter. Both #1 and #4 pistons move up at the same time. I put it on #4 intake lifter because that was the easiest to mount my gauge.

CVR_Rally

Ah so you are doing it on the #4 power stroke. I like that better because getting both gauges on #1 is a pita.

Van

No, it's actually #1's power stroke, but #4's intake stroke. #1's intake stroke would be exactly 360 degrees (one revolution) of the crank later.

CVR_Rally

Sorry I keep thinking of it backwards but when I did it I was doing what you're doing but all on #1.

Otto Mechanic

Thanks Van, much nicer gauge set up than I'd imagined. Could have really used this one about 3 years ago while I was retiming my 928: