odonnell

I've read a lot of accounts of people who have made RMS installation tools (usually a PVC cap or something similar) only to have it leak shortly after. What's the success/failure rate of a non-Porsche tool?

From what I've observed, the main cause of leaks seems to be improper depth of installation (having it flush to the case, instead of bottomed out). But then I read that people use DIY tools to install at the right depth, and then it leaks. What gives?

Voith

New old stock seals lying on the shelf for last 20 or so years perhaps. Actually a good candidate for improvement, I bet there are better big bore semerings options nowdays..

944crazy

I installed my RMS the first time round with a poly pipe to the correct depth. It didn't go in perfectly straight though and sure enough it leaked. The second time round I did it with the Porsche tool and it was a piece of cake and hasn't leaked a drop in the ~1800km since.

In my opinion, getting at the RMS is such a pain in the ****, you should just use the Porsche tool for piece of mind. It's pretty expensive though...I just posted on a local Porsche forum and was able to borrow one from a fellow enthusiast.

odonnell

That's where I'm leaning... The access makes it a job you want to take no chances on. For me, this engine is on a stand so I have the chance to fine-tune installation. But I'm worried it won't leak when I fill it with oil, but leak when I go for my first drive.

Paulyy

mine leaked when i bought the car. when i did the rebuild, took the old one out. in with the new. pretty sure i just tapped it in. no leaks.

CVR_Rally

http://www.autotoolworld.com/Sir-Too..._p_201406.html

For the price of this tool I'd rather have it and know it went in right rather than take the chance.

944crazy

I did mine the first time round with the poly pipe with the engine out. It didn't leak after I filled it with oil, and it didn't even leak during the 20 minute cam run in either. It only started leaking after I went for the first drive. There is nothing more infuriating than spending a couple months rebuilding an engine and then having to do the most annoying job there is on the 944...taking that god damn clutch housing off when all you want to do is run in your new engine...the pain is still freshly burnt into my memory

V2Rocket

I did mine in 2006 and just set it flush with the block by tapping lightly with a rubber mallet.
I do the same thing for front cam/crank/BS seals...no issues.

Voith

Crank ridge is also a factor, if the ridge is to big and seal catches in it, it will leak. Even the slightest ridge can produce a leak no matter what tool is used to insert the seal..

Cosmatics951

Does anyone have the factory tool? I'd like to make a 3d cad model of it. I'll gladly pay a deposit, shipping, etc.

Along those lines, I have a bunch of factory tools that sit in garage for 99% of the time. I gotta list them available for fellow rennlisters.

KevinGross

One more data point: while I have shelves full of factory tools, this isn't one of them. I am pretty sure I used a large round bearing press piece, probably 9247/3, when installing. But not certain. No leaks, no issues. As others have said, set it flush.

Be sure to pack the new seal with grease before installing. This will keep its gaiter (the metal spring encircling the seal's lip) from coming out of position. Which could cause a leak.

CrookedRacer

I just put the RMS in my engine swap with the largest diameter cylinder and cap from the same bearing kit that I recently bought to do the rear axles.

The seal (a red one, not black) was easily tapped in straight and true with the largest steel ring in the kit... I'll let you know if it made a good seal and whether it holds oil.

Here's the harbor freight kit I used (worked flawlessly for the rear bearings too!):

http://www.harborfreight.com/fwd-front-wheel-bearing-adapters-66829.html

ramius665

Bought the P234 and never looked back. Makes it quick, easy and very repeatable results.

neunfünfeins

On other engines I've worked on, there's been a conventional wisdom that says "don't install to the same depth as the original seal, so that you don't keep wearing the same groove into the shaft." I.e., let the seal lip ride on a fresh section of the shaft. This practice has served me well for years.

Does it not apply here for some reason though?

Also, I second the packing with grease, as well as the coating the lip itself. The other thing it does is keeps the lip from getting burnt up that first dry startup. General comment for all seals of this type. Have seen leaks caused by not doing this.

snb13

This may interest some:
http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/yab...num=1387072813