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It seems I may have had worse than anyone so far but, good news, I concocted the most fool proof method yet. I tried slamming a slide hammer for an hour, torching the bell housing, slide hammering some more, using a bolt to clamp against a deep well socket to draw the pin out. With the last technique I was able to pull the pin out a quarter inch before it stripped the first 4 threads straight out of the pin.
What worked for me was to remove the bell housing with the PP still attached. There is a hole in the bell housing which you can easily access the back of the pin and bash it out with a hammer and punch.
You can remove the PP by removing the 6mm Allen head bolts that hold the PP to the flywheel. Reach through the hole in the bellhousing where the starter sits to access the bolts. I had somebody lay in front of the car and rotate the crank as I removed the bolts. It took me about 15 minutes to undo the bolts, drop the bell housing and bash the pin out.
This was surprisingly easy and I was able to do the hard work on my bench. Next time if the slide hammer doesn't work I'm going straight to this method. It certainly beats laying on your back getting ****ed by a hard rod for 2 hours.
There is a hole in the bell housing which you can easily access the back of the pin and bash it out with a hammer and punch.
It works even better if you pound the stop pin out first using a small diameter punch, drive it through into the bell housing. The small pin in the bell housing stops the pivot pin insertion depth. If you don't pound it out, it obstructs the available punch diameter to get to the back side of the pivot pin.
When the pivot pin is removed, locate the stop pin (that fell into the bell housing) and press it back in. Stop pin pointed out below.
K
07-08-2017, 12:57 AM
FROZEN CLUTCH FOR PIN
