hagstir

Ok guys thanks to the wealth of info on here I decided to tackle both rear wheel bearings in my '84 n/a. I followed clarkes' to the T and things were going smoothly (only one stripped triple square cv bolt thanks to the PO) but now I'm at a standstill as the outer race of the passenger side outer bearing is firmly stuck. I've tried using a wood block, as well as using a set of bearing race drivers to no avail. I then started to cut with the Dremel but stopped before getting far because I was concerned I might damage the seat trying to get a cut all the way across.

I do not have access or knowledge on welding, and obviously can't take the car to a shop now, so I'm hoping there's a friendly, experienced rennlister around RVA who's willing to help a noob? I can provide cold adult beverages

I have spent so much time in the past week buying and returning tools that haven't worked, and I'm on a tight budget and at my wits end so yea... Suggestions, advice, help please?

CyCloNe!

So it's stuck in the trailing arm? If so get a torch and heat it up a bit (the arm not race) then try driving it out. The metal should expand and should allow it to tap out easier.

hagstir

Yes stuck in the trailing arm. I borrowed a few things to try from a vw buddy of mine, if those don't work I'll find a torch and try that, thanks for the suggestion.

I guess the last resort will be removing the arms and taking it to a shop.

hagstir

Alright so I'm gonna pull both trailing arms and take them to get pressed out and in. Hoping someone can clear some things up for me.

To remove the trailing arm there are 5 bolts correct? I count three on the plate, one by the torque tube, and the bottom mount of the shock. This sound right?

Also what do I do with the brake hard line that's hooked up to the bracket on the trailing arm? If I undo the two nuts do the two sides separate?

SloMo228

Yep, three bolts on the spring plate and one inboard on the torsion bar carrier.

IIRC, you do need to disconnect the brake line to remove the trailing arm, just loosen/undo the fittings. A flare wrench is the best tool for this, to avoid stripping fittings. Be ready to catch the brake fluid that will come out, and you'll have to bleed your brakes afterward.

CrookedRacer

https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...l#post13061167

I had the easiest time getting mine out with theHF Front Bearing tool I referenced above.

You mentioned you've bought/borrowed/returned a lot of tools. If this one isn't one of the ones you've already tried, I'd give it a try.

Use the 20% off any item coupon at Harbor Freight to get the price down under $100.

hagstir

SloMo thanks for clearing that up! Headed out now to start working on it, will report back

Thanks Crooked I saw your thread after I'd resigned myself to remove the arms, but I may run out and see if HF has a set in stock. I diy'd a similar press using a large impact socket and pipe fittings... Bent every washer and flange plate lol. Well done, I never thought it would be that tough!

The biggest problem I'm facing is space under the car in my garage... Time to start saving for a lift!

hagstir

Ok everything was going swimmingly, but I am now down to one bolt. On the eccentric bolt it seems like there is a nut on the backside of the plate before the drop link. Is this correct? I am guessing I need a 19mm open ended wrench for this as I am having no luck getting the nut off the outer part of the droplink.

I undid the nut on the outside (facing outward) thinking I'd be able to pull outward off the bolt.

hagstir

Alrighty, I was incorrect but used a drift to get any stuck bolts out. Took 4 days to do the right trailing arm, 45 mins to do the left lol. Dropped them off at the shop and should have everything back together in a week I hope.