odonnell

Been studying the WSM and I'm putting together a list of things I'll need to re-assemble my new motor. I don't want to cut any corners but I notice a lot of special tools and exotic sealants being mentioned.

Loctite 574 comes up a lot for sealing surfaces, WSM is clear that this should be the only sealant used. I'm ok with that, but want to order the right amount. Is 50 mL enough? I'm curious about using Yamabond for everything, I've read several success stories.

There is also the Silastic RTV 730 on the oil pan corners. Same question, how much is needed, if I even need to use that stuff versus some other RTV?

Probably some other sealant I'm forgetting, but if there's anything I should know, please comment.

Next topic is the use of special tools. To those who have been there/done that, which Porsche special tools do you recommend actually getting, versus which ones are ok to DIY?

Last topic (sorry for long post) is in general, what parts I should be ordering that don't come with a standard rebuild kit. So far I know waterpump kit, belts and rollers kit, and whatever hardware (rod nuts and etc). All my sleeves that the FOES rides on look good. Don't want to overlook anything. Thanks rennlist!

PorscheFanatic202

I got enough 574 sealant supplied in the kit from Lindsey. I did go out and buy a small nap velour roller from a paint shop to apply the stuff to the girdle and balance shaft covers.

I have heard the OPRV alignment tool will be useful (I have one but haven't gotten to that step yet)

I learned this the hard way, but when you install your crank girdle tighten your oil pump to the block to align the girdle and block

thomasmryan

638 on the balance covers.

I put some pfte stuff on the water pump studs hoping it will keep them from getting crusty.

odonnell

Interesting - I was going to get the kit from Zims for $858, but for $905 the LR kit includes all the sealants and even assembly lube. So that takes care of that... thanks for the pointer, no brainer now.

and thanks for the tip about installing the oil pump to the block first. Did you thread the 3 M6 bolts that join the oil pump to the girdle before or after torquing down the girdle?

638 on the balance shaft covers...got it, thanks. I wanted to be sure those were done right, as they leak a little on my current motor.

odonnell

One other question since you brought up water pump studs, Thomas. Is it worthwhile to replace them? They aren't too bad but definitely original. There was been one water pump replacement, it has an 89 cast code. I heard they shear easy when removing... don't know if it's worth the risk. All the other studs have come out like butter.

(also... is a 1989 OEM water pump that's spent worth holding onto as a core?)

Van

Zero - I suggest you just make sure the metal parts are clean, and then you oil up the new pan gasket - this will allow it to slide around a little bit and seal up just fine.


I spread the 574 around on both surfaces with a finger, than kind of "tap" it with my finger - the lifting action of your finger makes a surface very much like a little roller.


Excellent advice - do the same with the front balance shaft cover pieces.


I seem to recall that the dipstick o-ring isn't included in any of the 3 gasket kits (bottom end, top end, front end). I don't recall if the front crank seal and oil pump drive gear o-ring are included, either. You'll want a new oil pump drive gear.

If your budget allows, have the big ends of the connecting rods machined back to round (they go out).

thomasmryan

even though my water pump was 22 years old, the studs looked new. i cleaned all the threads and reused them with the Loctite pfte (Teflon)

PorscheFanatic202

Actually, from Clark's garage it says that 574 replaces 638. Kinda freaked me out, I thought I didn't have the required sealants for a sec.

Quoted from site:

B. Apply a thin coat of Loctite 574 (used to be Loctite 638) to the cover mating surface using a velour roller. Position the cover in place on the balance shaft housing.

Also, good tip on ptfe stuff. Where do you get it from?

thomasmryan

20 years ago, I needed some Loctite 572 (pfte/Teflon) for a Yamaha lower unit which I had to source from the fatherland. most FLAPS carry permatex equivalent.

the 968 PET called for 638 so I picked up some from Luke at Sunset.

hylomar is still my favorite goop. love that stuff.

odonnell

I'll go with what's included with the LR kit and be judicious with the sealant, I'm really taking my time with this and making sure it's not half-***. I also noticed it comes with con rod nuts so I can check that off the list. I'll get a head count on what it includes and post it here, since I can't seem to find an exhaustive list on their site. It'll probably be a month or two before I order it, I need to have the block tanked and knock out some other projects first.

thomasmryan

less is more

951Dreams

You guys using anything on the head gasket?

PorscheFanatic202

For loctite 574? The WSM says to use a thin coating. I'm not sure if gooping it on is effective.

Van

Exactly - "less is more" means it's better to use less!

harveyf

It is informative to review the Locktite spec sheets for 574. (Google brings them right up) At one place it discusses gaps of 0.25 mm. In the cure time chart, the biggest gap addressed is 0.5 mm. That's 0.020". The crank girdle is matched to the block at the factory, that is why it doesn't have a separate part number. If you do a dry fit on your girdle and have gaps greater than 0.020" you might be headed for trouble, including not being able to get a prime on your oil pump. Ask me how I know! So as stated above, a little bit is fine, and the excess is going to get squeezed out into the oil passages. Theoretically, the stuff that is squeezed out will dissolve and wash away but I would want to minimize the excess regardless.

The other worrisome thing to me on the spec sheet is the recommended shelf storage temperatures for this stuff. The spec sheets discuss 8 degC to 28 degC. At this time of the year, depending on where/who you buy from, the shipping process via truck may result in the stuff going below 8 degC. I try and buy my 574 in the spring or the fall and keep it in my wine cooler until I use it. At the storage temp for red wine, not white wine!