Scootin159

Seems to early to talk about this, but I guess it IS snowing outside and next weekend is my only real opportunity to put it into storage.

Anyways, I've read the archives & gotten a few good ideas, and just kinda wanted to run them by you before I actually do this.

First a bit of car-specific history:
Storage will be non-heated garage (NY Temperatures)
Last oil change was 7/5/03 w/ 107k miles, now @ 110k miles - Mobil 1 10w30
Coolant was flushed and filled 50/50 with the right stuff 7/2/03
Tires are shot

Anyways, here's my plans:

Fill tank, add Gas Stabilizer and run for a good 20-30 minutes to ensure it's cycled through.

Add some type of seal protector to door seals, window seals, hatch seal, sunroof seals (any I'm forgetting?). What type of protectant do you reccomend?

Wash car & apply Vynalex/Leather treatment where applicable.

Place Steel Wool in exhaust pipe & intake to prevent mice from getting in.

Put some Silica Gel in interior to keep fresh (where's a good place to get it?)

Disconnect battery. It's a new battery so I'd like to keep it in good shape, but does it help that much to bring it out of the car? Is a charger that needed?

I'm gonna leave it sitting on the ground being that the tires are shot. I am already planning on buying new ones come spring.

I will also start it & let it run for at least 20 minutes (or more) every month or so to keep things fresh.

I'd do an oil change, but I'm still well within the specs of Mobil 1. With the regular startings will it be fine to leave it as is until spring (where I will change it?)

I also plan on changing tranny fluid & fuel filter in the spring (both due anyways). I will also flush/bleed the brakes/clutch then.

Any tips from you guys? Any ideas on where the best spot to find the stuff I mentioned above is? Thanks.

ahofam123

Sometimes starting it up can cause more harm than good. I know that if you let it run for only five minutes, then moisture will be left in the exhaust. I don't if 20 minutes is long enough to justify starting up the car, so I will leave it for someone else to answer. Other than that, everything else seems good.

Waterguy

You can buy dessicant in small pans at RV places. Be sure to drain the water out of the pan and check the dessicant occasionally.

Do NOT start the engine in storage. As stated above, unless you can take it for a long drive to burn out all moisture, it does you more harm than good to run it periodically.

A battery in storage will eventually discharge, then freeze in sub-zero weather. Either put the battery in a heated location or trickle charge it every month or two.

I would change your oil before placing it in storage. After 3,000 miles, you may have enough combustion products in the oil to make it acidic, causing corrosion. Why chance it? If you do it now, no need to in the spring.

The only other thing I would do would be to pull the spark plugs, spray some 20W "fogging" oil in the cylinders, then re-install the plugs. This oil is available in spray cans at auto supply stores.

adrian_jaye

scootin,

all seems ok, but DONT start it, that will cause excess wear.

however, before you start the car (when youve finished), remove the coil lead and crank the engine for about 10 seconds

then start it and IMMEDIATLEY take it for a long fast run of various speeds and loads

Hans

Scootin
Rubber seal stuff: Vaseline.... Dont forget the rear hatch seal.
Dont close the doors & hatch completely, first "click" is OK, just drop the hatch.

Take battery out and store on an safe place in the house, above freezing point. Charge once per 4 to 5 weeks.
Mine is (or will be soon) in an plastic box with tempex insulation all around it in the kitchen store.

Drive the car for at least 30 minutes before you put her in storage, this will vaporise all moisure in the engine oil.
AND DONT START IT till you can drive it.
I would not bother changing the oil, 3000 mls is still reasonable fresh for synthetic.
The only thing you can do is rotate the crank BY HAND every noe and then, but then again, it will only be for just one winter of say 4 months.

FWIW: I am currently working on a car that has been stopped and left out in the open, unattended for 3 years. It started up without any problem with the first turn of the key. No damage to the bearings, no flat spots on the tires, no problem with cylinders / pistons, no....
Just the interior required cleaning
TakeCare

adrian_jaye

of course the other thing is to pump up tyres to at least 45psi, preferably on axel stands to prevent flat spots

Z-man

If you are going to drive it, then you should drive it at least until the engine gets up to normal operating temps. And yes, I did say DRIVE it, not just start it and let it run. But with all that you're doing, it would be a hassle to drive it.

My mechanic (-shameless plug - Powertech in NJ - ) suggests that if you can drive the car (for 30 or so minutes) every two weeks during the winter, you shouldn't have to worry about prepping it for storage. But if you properly prep the car, there is no need to start and run it.

Just my $0.42,
-Z-man.

PSUice944

Here's what I did/will be doing:

Last winter I changed my Mobil1 before storage and put a few miles on it. Cleaned it really well, in and out. Put it up an jack stands and disconnected the battery. Fuel stabilizer and some good gas. Got one of those eyedropper coolant checkers and made sure I was going to be ok considering the winter temps in a non heated large garage/storage building.

I pondered leaving the hatch open for the seal, but I also wanted to de-moisturize the interior so I skipped that. I did get some "dessicant?" or the powdered de-humidifing "bag" of stuff, $10 from the hardware store, reusable as you bake it in a pan and re-bag it for re-use. Probably should re-charged it mid winter and will this time around.

Come spring, disconnected the coil and fuel pump fuse and cranked for about 30 seconds... didn't even need a jump to do this when reconnecting the battery. Reconnected those and it fired right up!

amfp

Suggest putting mothballs around the car to eliminate any mice coming around. I also put mothballs in engine compartment. Keep windows cracked for air circulation. Put like Bounty fabric softner sheets in the car. This can help with mildrew, and maybe rodents Also, if the garage is not attached to the house and has concrete floor I suggest putting tarp, or treated wood under car to avoid additonal moisture. If brake fluid is old may want to change to reduce moisture. I usually change oil before and after storage. Overkill, but guess makes me feel better. Personally, if properly stored, three / four months is not long for the car. As mentioned if you do start the car it is important to drive for at least 45 minutes.

thedyingiraffe

You should recharge battery every 30 days.