Size/s of '83 factory 16" Fuchs?
12-23-2015, 10:46 AM
#16
Alright if you've got the Climate it's no problem, but if not they need a lot of cleaning and maintenance if left bare metal and no protection.
EG, here's an example of 4x4 (Suv?) Wheel from the UK that was left bare metal because the lacquer peeled off..........
oops......
A thick gloss Powder coat clear lacquer offers so much more longevity on the lathed rim, it does "kill" the shine a little and also changes the centre finish to gloss and not Satin as original......
R
12-23-2015, 10:52 AM
#17
Rennlist Member
I believe they were this was from the factory, pretty much all Fuchs I've seen had the polished outer lip. I use a gentle polishing compound on them when they become dull, otherwise I just do routine cleaning. That last pic you posted is sexy...that's exactly how I want these to look one day. I'd very much like to strip off the old paint, powder coat the centers, and clear coat (or something) over everything to keep them nice.
12-23-2015, 11:13 AM
#18
I believe they were this was from the factory, pretty much all Fuchs I've seen had the polished outer lip. I use a gentle polishing compound on them when they become dull, otherwise I just do routine cleaning. That last pic you posted is sexy...that's exactly how I want these to look one day. I'd very much like to strip off the old paint, powder coat the centers, and clear coat (or something) over everything to keep them nice.
Ok, The Factory finish is a lathe machined outer rim , covered with a thin clear hard etched anodise.
The factory wheels would never be left bare metal, unless somebody special ordered it or something? as the practicalities can be a pain to keep them
Unlike most car wheels which are painted and lacquered like your car body, these can be looked after with washing and car polish, but some people often don't realise the clear fuchs anodise is not a lacquer, or is bare metal and hence I've heard and seen where people have used a metal polish or similar on the anodising!
The easy way to tell is get a rag with some metal polish, and rub semi hard for 5 seconds, if the rag is black it;s bare metal.
These were all lacquered and will last well
The customer insisted these stay bare metal and regretted it severly after 2 months, when he couldn't get off some road grime caught inbetween the diamond cut lathe channels and also the metal was blooming and tarnishing!
The Classic black and polished combination of the the wheel we all know as the "Fuch's" is probably the most famous and still a popular choice for many other wheels since for the Porsche owner.
R
12-23-2015, 08:07 PM
#19
Three Wheelin'
We need to clear up some misinformation on this forum posting about proper anodizing on FUCHS ......
The ORIGINAL FUCHS forged alloy wheel came anodized from the factory. They NEVER were a polished edge, but rather a satin, somewhat dull and milky look with a slight hint of marbling in the finish. The electrostatic applied finish protects the aluminum and actually changes the molecular structure of the aluminum creating a definitive look without the need for clear coating. Or polishing.
To take a polishing cloth or an aggressive cleaner/polish to them to 'brighten them up' a bit is not how a person is recommended by Porsche to care for these wheels. By reading the owners manual, directions are given by the maker to clean with a soft cloth, soap and water, out of direct sun when the wheels are cool. A proper PH balanced soap is to be used, either the product Porsche sells over their parts counter or P21S by Wach-Chemie of Germany. Any thing else with an acidic or base leaning will damage the wheel surface and will streak or stain it forever.
The washing is to be followed by a complete and thorough rubdown by Vaseline or petroleum jelly, and later by a coat of wax after rubbing the Vaseline in and wiping it down with a cloth.
Lathe cutting FUCHS wheels is nuts. They are not intended to be reduced in size, nor to carry a high polish, chrome, or a raw metal look. The photos you show of rim edges damaged by salt, rocks, brake dust , etc. need to be considered as candidates for a rough finish or RS style anodizing like what one would see on a Porsche race car.
There is not any way in the world I would consider a restorer lathing a set of FUCHS and removing forged alloy metal. Talk about a complete lack of respect for one of the most iconic wheels ever manufactured. Complete and utter destruction .......
The ORIGINAL FUCHS forged alloy wheel came anodized from the factory. They NEVER were a polished edge, but rather a satin, somewhat dull and milky look with a slight hint of marbling in the finish. The electrostatic applied finish protects the aluminum and actually changes the molecular structure of the aluminum creating a definitive look without the need for clear coating. Or polishing.
To take a polishing cloth or an aggressive cleaner/polish to them to 'brighten them up' a bit is not how a person is recommended by Porsche to care for these wheels. By reading the owners manual, directions are given by the maker to clean with a soft cloth, soap and water, out of direct sun when the wheels are cool. A proper PH balanced soap is to be used, either the product Porsche sells over their parts counter or P21S by Wach-Chemie of Germany. Any thing else with an acidic or base leaning will damage the wheel surface and will streak or stain it forever.
The washing is to be followed by a complete and thorough rubdown by Vaseline or petroleum jelly, and later by a coat of wax after rubbing the Vaseline in and wiping it down with a cloth.
Lathe cutting FUCHS wheels is nuts. They are not intended to be reduced in size, nor to carry a high polish, chrome, or a raw metal look. The photos you show of rim edges damaged by salt, rocks, brake dust , etc. need to be considered as candidates for a rough finish or RS style anodizing like what one would see on a Porsche race car.
There is not any way in the world I would consider a restorer lathing a set of FUCHS and removing forged alloy metal. Talk about a complete lack of respect for one of the most iconic wheels ever manufactured. Complete and utter destruction .......
12-24-2015, 08:07 AM
#20
We need to clear up some misinformation on this forum posting about proper anodizing on FUCHS ......
The ORIGINAL FUCHS forged alloy wheel came anodized from the factory. They NEVER were a polished edge, but rather a satin, somewhat dull and milky look with a slight hint of marbling in the finish. The electrostatic applied finish protects the aluminum and actually changes the molecular structure of the aluminum creating a definitive look without the need for clear coating. Or polishing.
To take a polishing cloth or an aggressive cleaner/polish to them to 'brighten them up' a bit is not how a person is recommended by Porsche to care for these wheels. By reading the owners manual, directions are given by the maker to clean with a soft cloth, soap and water, out of direct sun when the wheels are cool. A proper PH balanced soap is to be used, either the product Porsche sells over their parts counter or P21S by Wach-Chemie of Germany. Any thing else with an acidic or base leaning will damage the wheel surface and will streak or stain it forever.
The washing is to be followed by a complete and thorough rubdown by Vaseline or petroleum jelly, and later by a coat of wax after rubbing the Vaseline in and wiping it down with a cloth.
Lathe cutting FUCHS wheels is nuts. They are not intended to be reduced in size, nor to carry a high polish, chrome, or a raw metal look. The photos you show of rim edges damaged by salt, rocks, brake dust , etc. need to be considered as candidates for a rough finish or RS style anodizing like what one would see on a Porsche race car.
There is not any way in the world I would consider a restorer lathing a set of FUCHS and removing forged alloy metal. Talk about a complete lack of respect for one of the most iconic wheels ever manufactured. Complete and utter destruction .......
The ORIGINAL FUCHS forged alloy wheel came anodized from the factory. They NEVER were a polished edge, but rather a satin, somewhat dull and milky look with a slight hint of marbling in the finish. The electrostatic applied finish protects the aluminum and actually changes the molecular structure of the aluminum creating a definitive look without the need for clear coating. Or polishing.
To take a polishing cloth or an aggressive cleaner/polish to them to 'brighten them up' a bit is not how a person is recommended by Porsche to care for these wheels. By reading the owners manual, directions are given by the maker to clean with a soft cloth, soap and water, out of direct sun when the wheels are cool. A proper PH balanced soap is to be used, either the product Porsche sells over their parts counter or P21S by Wach-Chemie of Germany. Any thing else with an acidic or base leaning will damage the wheel surface and will streak or stain it forever.
The washing is to be followed by a complete and thorough rubdown by Vaseline or petroleum jelly, and later by a coat of wax after rubbing the Vaseline in and wiping it down with a cloth.
Lathe cutting FUCHS wheels is nuts. They are not intended to be reduced in size, nor to carry a high polish, chrome, or a raw metal look. The photos you show of rim edges damaged by salt, rocks, brake dust , etc. need to be considered as candidates for a rough finish or RS style anodizing like what one would see on a Porsche race car.
There is not any way in the world I would consider a restorer lathing a set of FUCHS and removing forged alloy metal. Talk about a complete lack of respect for one of the most iconic wheels ever manufactured. Complete and utter destruction .......
As this is a subject very close to my profession as One of the UK's Specialist Porsche wheel Restorers, I 've often heard and seen such passion on people's desire for originality and general concerns when repairing and restoring their cars and components.
I respect if you personally feel you would not be happy having a set of Fuchs restored including re-machining them, but there are thousands that do I'm sure worldwide, so it's not as bad or such a disrespectful process as your suggesting.
The German company Otto Fuchs who made these "Windmill" wheels years ago, and are currently not only reproducing them again, but also offering a Restoration service which involves machining and anodising.
There are a few companies in the Uk that also can do the same process, and also thousands of other wheels made by Otto Fuchs for Porsche and other manufacturers that have a "Diamond cut" lathed and lacquered finish. All of these wheels can also be Re-machined on a CNC lathe 2 times, and do not produce any undesired safety issues or problems.
When the Fuchs Porsche windmill wheels need restoration Some people go for the original process finish lathed / anodised and satin black centre or some prefer a bare metal polished rim if this insist they will clean and polish it regular, but your concerns for removing metal should not be the case, we are only talking small amounts, unless the pitting is very deep like my earlier examples.. and in which case then it's best to paint both the centre and outer in 2 colours.
These Popular 911 & Boxster Splitims have a Lathe Outer rim, and when restored can be re-machined and lacquered
Porsche Cayman wheels also Diamond cut machined
AMG Mercedes Split rims also outer rim machined
Porsche 4 stud 924
Porsche Cookie Cutters
And finally a Fuch Windmill with a frosted anodised / black satin finish
R
12-24-2015, 11:45 AM
#21
Three Wheelin'
Yes, I have been accused of that before.
I don't mind too horribly much. /-;}
The thing is, there never was such a thing as a 'laquered' finish on a set of original Forged Alloy FUCHS wheels. The outer rim edge, and indeed on early 911's the entire wheel face, received ONLY the anodizing and that is all. NO coating on that surface whatsoever except the raw material which became molecularly altered.
The electrostatically charged surface was all that one actually 'saw' or felt. The painted centers were a different matter and on restored wheels, we have come to accept a certain level of coping mechanisms which preserve the state of the wheel in the environments we find ourselves living.
Spreading calcium and manganese chloride mixed with sugar beet juice to control icing in below freezing temperatures, harsh car wash soaps, dog ****, bird droppings, or even well meaning but illiterate folks who will take a set of mult-thousand dollar wheels and ruin them by rubbing them with steel wool to bring up the shine. ( huge eyeroll )
Sorry, but no machining for me; the only Forged alloys I own have all been cared for since new by careful washing and following Porsche's own instructions on Vaseline rubbed into the surface, waxed, and using a proper PH balanced cleaner. I own a set and sometimes multiple sets for each Porsche I own, which makes about 20+ sets of FUCHS. Date coded to the cars, most are originals which came on them new. One set was refinished by Al Reed and another set by Harvey Weidman , both in California, and were wheels I specifically asked to hand polish only with an O.E. anodizing applied; NO lathing. NO shiny finish, just an original look applied so as not distinguishable from when they were first made.
If I had a set of pitted or etched FUCHS they would be only considered for a frosted look like the original RS wheel .........
JM2Cents
I don't mind too horribly much. /-;}
The thing is, there never was such a thing as a 'laquered' finish on a set of original Forged Alloy FUCHS wheels. The outer rim edge, and indeed on early 911's the entire wheel face, received ONLY the anodizing and that is all. NO coating on that surface whatsoever except the raw material which became molecularly altered.
The electrostatically charged surface was all that one actually 'saw' or felt. The painted centers were a different matter and on restored wheels, we have come to accept a certain level of coping mechanisms which preserve the state of the wheel in the environments we find ourselves living.
Spreading calcium and manganese chloride mixed with sugar beet juice to control icing in below freezing temperatures, harsh car wash soaps, dog ****, bird droppings, or even well meaning but illiterate folks who will take a set of mult-thousand dollar wheels and ruin them by rubbing them with steel wool to bring up the shine. ( huge eyeroll )
Sorry, but no machining for me; the only Forged alloys I own have all been cared for since new by careful washing and following Porsche's own instructions on Vaseline rubbed into the surface, waxed, and using a proper PH balanced cleaner. I own a set and sometimes multiple sets for each Porsche I own, which makes about 20+ sets of FUCHS. Date coded to the cars, most are originals which came on them new. One set was refinished by Al Reed and another set by Harvey Weidman , both in California, and were wheels I specifically asked to hand polish only with an O.E. anodizing applied; NO lathing. NO shiny finish, just an original look applied so as not distinguishable from when they were first made.
If I had a set of pitted or etched FUCHS they would be only considered for a frosted look like the original RS wheel .........
JM2Cents
02-29-2016, 04:14 PM
#22
Intermediate
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Just wanted to close the loop that the factory Fuchs on my '83 are indeed 7"x16" all around. They are clearly stamped 7Jx16 and have the correct Porsche part # and visible "fox" stamp. Now to decide the best tire size/s and make for front and rear. Any suggestions are most welcome? Thanks kindly for your previous input.
02-29-2016, 05:22 PM
#23
Sorry for hijacking this thread but on the subject of the early cars that came with the 16 inch wheel option, was the spring, sway bar, or shocks any difference then the 15 inch standard wheel cars?
03-21-2016, 02:57 PM
#26
Burning Brakes
Not necessarily, but I think you'll find that just about anyone with the means to get the 16" forged wheel option will have also gone for suspensions options. Sport seats also often correlate with the Fuchs option, though they are a bit less common due to availability issues at the time.
03-22-2016, 06:35 AM
#27
Rennlist Member
Are you asking if the M395 option dictated/necessitated other suspension changes? If so, no.
