Water pumps, do ya'll actually use threadlocker?
12-08-2015, 05:55 PM
#16
I did not use any threadlocker on mine earlier this year. What I found when I dug into everything is a PO had used anti-seize on everything. I think the WP I took off had been on there for at least 40,000 miles and no idea how many years. The bolts and nuts (on the studs) were still tight.
Very grateful that someone had enough forethought to use anti-seize after some of the horror stories I've seen here. My vote would be for anti-seize and properly torque everything down. You'll likely thank yourself later, or the next owner will be very thankful.
Very grateful that someone had enough forethought to use anti-seize after some of the horror stories I've seen here. My vote would be for anti-seize and properly torque everything down. You'll likely thank yourself later, or the next owner will be very thankful.
12-08-2015, 06:19 PM
#17
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The water pump I pulled off just for the record, was date stamped 1989 and was probably only the 2nd pump the car has ever had in it's life, being that its an 86. It probably had ~200k miles on it and would probably still be in the car if the oil cooler seals had not failed and gone unnoticed for some time. The extra strain from trying to push around the thick oil/coolant slurry finally did the 25+ year old pump in.
12-08-2015, 06:58 PM
#18
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Wow, so none of you use antiseize?
btw red loctite is why im currently in the position of having to drill out 6 broken studs because the last person to change the WP used red loctite over 25 years ago and I thought it was just rust holding them in...needlessly to say they'll get ONLY a drop of blue loctite on the new studs.
btw red loctite is why im currently in the position of having to drill out 6 broken studs because the last person to change the WP used red loctite over 25 years ago and I thought it was just rust holding them in...needlessly to say they'll get ONLY a drop of blue loctite on the new studs.
12-08-2015, 08:04 PM
#19
Drifting
You can spray clear coat on the fasteners after the WP is installed to help prevent rusting. I have yet to drill out a broken off WP stud. I soak rusty bolts for a few days if need be and then tap the head of the stud with a hammer to lossen it up for about 10 minutes. Then I use a breaker bar with a 10mm on it or vise grips if they fit and the nut is wasted, then work the nut back and forth only a few degrees while stoping to tap it with the hammer every minute or two, takes about half an hour per stud, sometimes longer. It's all about patiance. Better then drilling. I've never had issues with removing studs or bolts with locktite on them. Rust holds a like JB weld. My thought is it's better to have locktite over rust holding the stud in. Heat also helps remove studs with locktite but heat doesn't work as well with rusted studs.
12-08-2015, 08:42 PM
#20
12-08-2015, 11:36 PM
#21
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Hylomar
If you have Hylomar it is also a thread sealant. For studs and bolts that might be exposed to coolant I would use a thread sealant to keep rust out. If not Hylomar then teflon thread sealant (such as Permatex High Performance Thread Sealant) should keep the rust out of the threads and allow you to take things apart later.
I am a fan of anti-seize but not for applications where it might wash out. Other than that I might use blue medium locktite which should also keep out rust but red is overkill in my opinion. I still have the original water pump on my engine so I haven't had to decide what to use yet.
To reduce corrosion issues change your antifreeze every few years and keep your grounds well grounded (reduces electrical currents in your coolant).
I am a fan of anti-seize but not for applications where it might wash out. Other than that I might use blue medium locktite which should also keep out rust but red is overkill in my opinion. I still have the original water pump on my engine so I haven't had to decide what to use yet.
To reduce corrosion issues change your antifreeze every few years and keep your grounds well grounded (reduces electrical currents in your coolant).
12-09-2015, 12:06 AM
#22
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If you have Hylomar it is also a thread sealant. For studs and bolts that might be exposed to coolant I would use a thread sealant to keep rust out. If not Hylomar then teflon thread sealant (such as Permatex High Performance Thread Sealant) should keep the rust out of the threads and allow you to take things apart later.
I am a fan of anti-seize but not for applications where it might wash out. Other than that I might use blue medium locktite which should also keep out rust but red is overkill in my opinion. I still have the original water pump on my engine so I haven't had to decide what to use yet.
To reduce corrosion issues change your antifreeze every few years and keep your grounds well grounded (reduces electrical currents in your coolant).
I am a fan of anti-seize but not for applications where it might wash out. Other than that I might use blue medium locktite which should also keep out rust but red is overkill in my opinion. I still have the original water pump on my engine so I haven't had to decide what to use yet.
To reduce corrosion issues change your antifreeze every few years and keep your grounds well grounded (reduces electrical currents in your coolant).
The studs were extremely corroded and stripped all the threads off when the nuts came off. They broke flush with the block when I attempted to turn them out using the double nut method. The bolts unfortunately are not flush, I'm planning on cutting them flush with a 1-1/2" carbide cutting wheel on a dremel.