Changing a leaking cam cover gasket-Guess how much!?
#1
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Brought my car back to the mechanic who charged me over $400 to fix my leaking oil pressure sender. Car is still dripping oil on the floor, and I wanted them to see if they messed up the installation, or something.
So I get a call back that the leak is from the valve cover gasket, leaking down the side of the block and pooling, eventually dripping to the floor. Anyone want to take a guess at how much this place wanted to charge me to unscrew the bolts on the valve cover, replace the gasket, and screw it back together??
A mere $295!
"It's a mad house!! A MAD house!!" I told him forget it, and got a receipt saying "small gasket leak--customer decided to do nothing at this time."
Where do I get a short valve cover bolt (mine's stripped), and, what should I use to SEAL the gasket this time so it doesn't leak? My gasket is brand new, but since it was used, I assume I should buy another one to make sure it seats right??
So I get a call back that the leak is from the valve cover gasket, leaking down the side of the block and pooling, eventually dripping to the floor. Anyone want to take a guess at how much this place wanted to charge me to unscrew the bolts on the valve cover, replace the gasket, and screw it back together??
A mere $295!
"It's a mad house!! A MAD house!!" I told him forget it, and got a receipt saying "small gasket leak--customer decided to do nothing at this time."
Where do I get a short valve cover bolt (mine's stripped), and, what should I use to SEAL the gasket this time so it doesn't leak? My gasket is brand new, but since it was used, I assume I should buy another one to make sure it seats right??
![grr](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/cussing.gif)
Last edited by AndyK; 09-24-2003 at 11:35 AM.
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Is it leaking from the front, or from the back? If its the back, I bet its the rear cover, which is held on by 3 10mm bolts torqued to something like 2 ftlbs... its a VERY common place to have leak. Before you go too far, you might check that really quick.
And PLEASE stay away from that mechanic from now on... those are the sort that seem to always find more expensive things *wrong* with your car. $400 for an oil pressure sender is criminal. I did mine myself in about 15 minutes.
Regards,
And PLEASE stay away from that mechanic from now on... those are the sort that seem to always find more expensive things *wrong* with your car. $400 for an oil pressure sender is criminal. I did mine myself in about 15 minutes.
Regards,
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Originally posted by AndyK
Where do I get a short cam cover bolt (mine's stripped),
Where do I get a short cam cover bolt (mine's stripped),
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Andy-
I believe the leaks most often occur at the elevation transitions on the cover/head . When you re-install the gasket, a little RTV at those corners should stop additional leaking. I did this when I re-used my gasket ~50K ago and still dry.
HTH,
I believe the leaks most often occur at the elevation transitions on the cover/head . When you re-install the gasket, a little RTV at those corners should stop additional leaking. I did this when I re-used my gasket ~50K ago and still dry.
HTH,
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seriously, you keep going down this leaky path and you are going to have an empty wallet faster than you can say FOR SALE
either that or your wife will just kill you before it goes that far.
go somewhere else with the car, i think they're breaking it everytime they "fix" something else. ?? its possible...
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either that or your wife will just kill you before it goes that far.
go somewhere else with the car, i think they're breaking it everytime they "fix" something else. ?? its possible...
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For anyone in the SF Bay Area 'German Auto Kraft' does this exact same thing. $250 is what you agree to for the job but that's only for the diagnosis...then it's hundreds more for the repair with cheap parts that fail 1 month after warranty is expired.
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Originally posted by AndyK
Brought my car back to the mechanic who charged me over $400 to fix my leaking oil pressure sender. Car is still dripping oil on the floor, and I wanted them to see if they messed up the installation, or something.
So I get a call back that the leak is from the cam cover gasket, leaking down the side of the block and pooling, eventually dripping to the floor. Anyone want to take a guess at how much this place wanted to charge me to unscrew the bolts on the cam cover, replace the gasket, and screw it back together??
A mere $295!
"It's a mad house!! A MAD house!!" I told him forget it, and got a receipt saying "small gasket leak--customer decided to do nothing at this time."
Where do I get a short cam cover bolt (mine's stripped), and, what should I use to SEAL the gasket this time so it doesn't leak? My gasket is brand new, but since it was used, I assume I should buy another one to make sure it seats right??
Brought my car back to the mechanic who charged me over $400 to fix my leaking oil pressure sender. Car is still dripping oil on the floor, and I wanted them to see if they messed up the installation, or something.
So I get a call back that the leak is from the cam cover gasket, leaking down the side of the block and pooling, eventually dripping to the floor. Anyone want to take a guess at how much this place wanted to charge me to unscrew the bolts on the cam cover, replace the gasket, and screw it back together??
A mere $295!
"It's a mad house!! A MAD house!!" I told him forget it, and got a receipt saying "small gasket leak--customer decided to do nothing at this time."
Where do I get a short cam cover bolt (mine's stripped), and, what should I use to SEAL the gasket this time so it doesn't leak? My gasket is brand new, but since it was used, I assume I should buy another one to make sure it seats right??
![grr](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/cussing.gif)
On an N/A, I think you have to take the timing belt off, which would explain a price in that range.
Kevin
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Most mechanics will take the cam tower off along with the timing belt and balance shaft belt. Its more work than taking the "cover" off because its not just a cover. It is a housing containing the lifters and the cam so when you remove it, do not mess up the order of the lifters and you will have to retime your car. I have been able to replace the camtower seal ($7 dollar part) without removing the timing belt to save a lot of time but I don't think most mechanics do it that way. Just think of it as a timing belt replacement without the cost of parts and more labor. This will explain the mere $295 to replace your camtower gasket. Too bad you don't live in S. Ca. because we may have a gathering to replace t belts and camtower gaskets.
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I meant Valve cover gasket, not cam cover. Sorry! That makes it even WORSE as far as a rip off goes!
Mike--Here is a photo of the bolts (you know them, I am sure)...I need a short one, like the ones on all 4 corners. The one that is stripped on mine is right under the fuel hoses--a major PITA to move those to get at the nut!Do these fuel hoses come off, or will that involve spilling gas all over the place??
Marc--Thanks for the lift offer! I'm gonna change the valve cover gasket again myself, using that RTV stuff in the corners. I don't know why it's leaking--maybe I torqued the nuts down too far, compressing the gasket too much??
The leak is from the bottom of the gasket...
Mike--Here is a photo of the bolts (you know them, I am sure)...I need a short one, like the ones on all 4 corners. The one that is stripped on mine is right under the fuel hoses--a major PITA to move those to get at the nut!Do these fuel hoses come off, or will that involve spilling gas all over the place??
![](http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/ValveCover.jpg)
Marc--Thanks for the lift offer! I'm gonna change the valve cover gasket again myself, using that RTV stuff in the corners. I don't know why it's leaking--maybe I torqued the nuts down too far, compressing the gasket too much??
The leak is from the bottom of the gasket...
Last edited by AndyK; 09-24-2003 at 12:06 PM.
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Andy-
I think the bolts are dealer only or might get some from a recycler.
You can remove the cam cover without removing the fuel lines. It will wiggle out, just don't try to force anything.
You mention that the bolt is stripped as in the head of the bolt is rounded out? The torque spec on thes things is very light, like 6 or 7 ft-lbs. Too much and they snap!
HTH.
I think the bolts are dealer only or might get some from a recycler.
You can remove the cam cover without removing the fuel lines. It will wiggle out, just don't try to force anything.
You mention that the bolt is stripped as in the head of the bolt is rounded out? The torque spec on thes things is very light, like 6 or 7 ft-lbs. Too much and they snap!
HTH.