These seem intriguing...Can this device at around $100.00 replace a regular torque wrench that costs much, MUCH more? Has anyone here used one? I stumbled across one anecdotal account where a guy tried it on some calibration equipment he had at his job and found it maintained a better than 2% accuracy throughout it's ENTIRE range. Most mechanical torque wrenches lose a considerable amount of accuracy outside the middle of their range (or so I was always taught). Any thoughts?

 

I've never tried a device like this, but it's gotta be better than the pointer on my wrench. I can see however, that if is used prior to an extension, it won't take into account the torque loss in the extension bar. But that is true with all T-wrenches. If there is room, it would be best to use it right next to the socket. Looks like a neat gadget though.

 

I use my $10 harbor freight 1/2" torque wrench for the crank bolt...it is the absolute maximum the wrench will pull, but it works...can double check it against a fancier wrench and it will be very accurate...

 

Dear Spencer..Doesn't a rear axle shaft nut require about 350 ft/lbs of torque? Seems that I read about this figure some time back. Interesting..since most front wheel drive cars take about 180 ft/lbs on the CV axle nut. (ballpark..some may vary according to the manufacturer's spec)..Or did I just misread it and get ft/lbs and N/M's confused? Tks. Good thing I have a 3/4 inch to 1/2 inch adapter ....:>)) !

 

Axle nut is like 350. Out of the range of my $10 torque wrench. I meant just for the crankshaft pulley bolt at 157#

 

I've read repeatedly that a 1/2" drive anything will break on torquing axle nut at 368 ft.pnds.

My cynicism got the better of me, so I bought a used CDI 3/4" drive torque wrench, good from 100-600 ft.pnds. I'll send it out for calibration when I get it. There's no better a DIY bling than a giant-*** torque wrench. Except for possibly a Bridgeport mill...

 

pics of the 3/4 wrench!

 

For the axle nut I used a cheater bar, tape measure and bathroom scales.

Until gravity changes, that's accurate enough for anything!

Cheers.
Mike

 

It's used, and I don't have it yet, but this is a picture of one. I got a screaming deal on it at $130.00 delivered. Most go for around $250.00, with new ones being about $600.00.

 

Oh, uploading a picture from this tablet isn't working. I'll do it tomorrow when I get home...

 

I bought a craftsman 1/2" clicker torque wrench on sale for $60. It goes from 25 - 250 lb ft. The only nut I can't do with it is the early axle nut, but I converted to late rear suspension on my early car, BOOM.

But in the past, I used the lever arm & gravity method for the 368 lb ft nut. With a 1/2" breaker bar.

 

I thought the late axle nut actually has a higher torque spec than the early one?

 

According to Clark's, it does. 368 ft.pnds.

 

I bought the Harbor Freight earthquake 1/2 and it removed the Axle nuts that looked like they had been there since the beginning of time (As in the emergency brake had actually carved a groove in the inside of the drum)

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-too...nch-68424.html

 

Oh, ya. I guess I used the lever and gravity method on the late nuts. But still - 220 lb human on a 20 inch lever equals 366.66 lb ft. I even make a click sound when I'm done.

Just gotta make sure you stand on the breaker bar gently so as not to jerk it too tight. The socket/wrench has to come to a stop gently, and while it's perpendicular to the direction of gravity. And use a liberal amount of copper antiseize on the threads and the nut/washer interface.