Help describing trans issue
#1
Help describing trans issue
Hi-
I am trying to figure out what if anything my situation can be described as:
Car is a '87 Porsche 944S (16v) manual trans.
When accelerating in any gear, no issues. feels OK, no noticeable noises.
Lets say in first gear, i accelerate to 4k rpm, then completely let off the gas.
the car feels like it "slides" from back to front, and upon "hitting to front" it kinda "bangs" a few times or "bounces" maybe 2-3 times depending on the speed, and then begins to whine pretty loudly. now, if i get back on the gas hard, the car feels like its "sliding" again to the back.
Is there a term for this sliding / bouncing between throttle and no throttle while in gear?
And, of course, what might be the problem? I am going to try changing the trans fluid first. Any other thoughts?
I am trying to figure out what if anything my situation can be described as:
Car is a '87 Porsche 944S (16v) manual trans.
When accelerating in any gear, no issues. feels OK, no noticeable noises.
Lets say in first gear, i accelerate to 4k rpm, then completely let off the gas.
the car feels like it "slides" from back to front, and upon "hitting to front" it kinda "bangs" a few times or "bounces" maybe 2-3 times depending on the speed, and then begins to whine pretty loudly. now, if i get back on the gas hard, the car feels like its "sliding" again to the back.
Is there a term for this sliding / bouncing between throttle and no throttle while in gear?
And, of course, what might be the problem? I am going to try changing the trans fluid first. Any other thoughts?
#2
Classic rubber centered clutch is toast. You're on the limp home tabs. If you get under the car and pull the rubber inspection cover on the TA, reach in and see if you can rotate the drive line. I'm guessing you can since my car does the same thing and I'm just waiting to get some shop time with a lift to install a new clutch.
Watch this short video and it should explain everything.
Watch this short video and it should explain everything.
#3
Thanks! The visualization seems to match what I am feeling.
As for the whining, that would still be the trans I am thinking. Still need to do the oil change there, but ok... new clutch it is.
Any advice on which kit? Sachs was recommended. Just wondering if there is a lower cost option.
As for the whining, that would still be the trans I am thinking. Still need to do the oil change there, but ok... new clutch it is.
Any advice on which kit? Sachs was recommended. Just wondering if there is a lower cost option.
#5
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Apr 2006
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Thanks! The visualization seems to match what I am feeling.
As for the whining, that would still be the trans I am thinking. Still need to do the oil change there, but ok... new clutch it is.
Any advice on which kit? Sachs was recommended. Just wondering if there is a lower cost option.
As for the whining, that would still be the trans I am thinking. Still need to do the oil change there, but ok... new clutch it is.
Any advice on which kit? Sachs was recommended. Just wondering if there is a lower cost option.
#6
I got the saaame problem. As well as the torque tube bearing whine on deceleration from about 3000 to 2000 rpm. FYI I have been driving on my "emergency limp home tabs" for two years now and 5000 miles. I can usually drive it without making the clanking sliding noises now.
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#9
I guess as long as you are gentle or have gotten the hang of working the clutch just right and smoothly come on and off the accelerator then you'll be ok and hardly notice it.
But yes I've been meaning to replace the clutch for a while now but I have too many cars and need to downsize. And its a catch 22 when selling it: don't replace the clutch and no one will buy it or replace the clutch and not get your time and money back out of it.
#10
Rennlist Member
If you decide to do the clutch, you can delete the rubber centered disc part and go with a straight spring clutch. A PO put this in my car..I can only thank him for it..I don't know if he had to go from the flywheel out to do this, perhaps some more experienced R-lister can comment on what #'s you'll have to have to convert. It will be WAAAAY less expensive if you do it this way...
#11
#12
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
The 016 gearbox is very sturdy and works flawlessly even for 700 hp cars.
The audi guys suspect that 944 trannies brake because people keep running them with destroyed cluthes.
If you think about it, when the rubber vanishes and the limp mode metal parts engage there's no damping in the system. This means any play between the ring and pinion will cause a hard hit on the teeths.
Do it too hard and too often and you'll have trouble.
That's one theory anyways...