Rich Sandor

I busted the dried cracked turbo-end of my J-pipe last nite, thats gonna be expensive enough to replace, and I don't want to have to replace my injectors too - How do I safely remove them?

Do they just "pop" out of the manifold like the FPR does out of the fuel rail? I'm worried that I'll be trying to pull them out when they need to be unscrewed. Those little fkers are expensive.. I don't have an extra $600 to spend on injectors if I break mine.

Thanks in advance guys..

Ken

There is a clip that is holding them to the fuel rail. Once you get that off they should just pull out. Try and pull them out straight, if you rock them or pull on an angle then you could do some damage.

Rich Sandor

is that the little metal clips that secure the wires/plugs to the injectors? or another clip near the top of the injector?

thnx Ken

Ken

There's another clip near the top of the injector that holds it to the rail. It should slide off pretty easily.

Peckster

Some people leave them connected to the rail and pull them all off together. Rock the rail back and forth as you pull on it and they should come. If you take the clips off, remember how they go back on.

Rich Sandor

thanks again guys

Rich Sandor

Hey Gilbert - I got your message:

The J-pipe is the big one on the right. (little hoses may/may not still be attached)



Grrr one of the injector caps broke off AND one of the cheese head bolts stripped on the manifold!!!!!! POS

User 41221

Hey Rich,

One of my buddies just ordered a new J-pipe for a whopping $39. It shouldn't break your budget too badly.

As for the injectors, just pull them out as an assembly on the fuel rail. Be sure to use some atf on the o-rings when you are putting them back in.

Regards,

Danno

If you are doing ANYTHING to the injector wiring, like removing the connectors to pull the injectors out, be very, very careful. First use a flat screwdriver to pry off the square spring-clip on the connectors. Then pull on the connectors themselves to remove from the injectors. Do NOT be tempted to pull on the little loop of wire to yank the connectors off the injectors. They are very prone to corrosion at the end of the rubber boot, right where the wires are soldered to the connectors. A break here will cause sporadic continuity across the joint and will result in stumbling and other odd behavior.

You can fix the end of the J-pipe easily with a section of 2" OD exhaust pipe. Trim off the end of the J-pipe so that it's flat. Then shove a 2" long piece of 2" long OD exhaust pipe into the J-pipe and hose-clamp in place. Slip a 2" ID radiator hose over the turbo inlet and hose-clamp in place. Slip the J-pipe into this hose and clamp in place! About $10 in parts.

Rich Sandor

Thank you boys. Gilbert offered to give me his old Jpipe, and failing that, I'll have a custom setup putting the AFM and Filter by the coolant tank/headlights.

As far as the injectors go, they are all out, and none of the wiring harnesses gave me any trouble - but ONE injector was missing an orange washer behind the endcap and black rubber gasket. Dunno where the **** it went to - it wasn't there when i removed the injector!! Another injector has a broken end cap. Can I buy these separately?

Also, can I clean these injector so that they flow like new?

K27

hey Rich, what the hell ya doin anyway?
Don't feel bad, most of the o rings were toasted when I pulled my injectors. they may be spare soon as i get 55lb ers

johne

here is a decent write up on how to clean your injectors yourself.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ector+cleaning
I loosely followed it and it and now my injectors spray nice conical patterns.

Pep boys sells a injector reseal kit for our injectors they just don't know it. I found the part number on a post ~2 months ago and went in and told the Pep Boys fella's that I wanted 4 of the kits. They kits fit perfectly and cost ~half as much as the Porsche ones.

PS. I just search the archives and cannot find the part number, hopefully you will have better luck.

John

johne

Ah ha I found the box from the reseal kits. It is Borg Warner 274081. The guys at the store may try to tell you that they can not look it up by that number just ask to speak to a manager and he will "amazingly" be able to look it up.

later,
John

Rich Sandor

Wow Gee thanks guys. Lance, I'm changing the heater control valve, and I thought it's be easier to get at if I remove the manifold. I also needed to bleed the coolant entirely so I can replace some hoses and the fan temp switch. Then I thought, well gee, since I've done all this, why not do the Battery and all the straps and grounds too, since they are pretty shabby.

Lets just say I got a LOT of **** to do besides what I wrote above!! I still have an oil AND coolant AND powersteering fluid leak. Thank god they are very slowwww leaks. But I'm doing it all, very very slowly and carefully!

K27

you need to pull your engine