Phantoms

I'm in the midst of replacing a trailing arm that has a crack from an accident years ago and I have a few questions.

The two parts I'm unsure about are the brake line and the parking brake cable.

Since the brake line routes through the trailing arm I'll have to open it. Is there anything I need to do before cracking? Can I just cap it so all of my fluid doesn't leak out? I have a power bleeder and enough fluid to bleed the system after if needed

As far as the parking brake goes, I already know moving all of the hardware over to the new arm will be a major PITA, but I've seen another thread on that. My main question is on removing and reattaching the parking brake cable. Any tips on how to go about that, or tools I will need? Looking at it I'm completely stumped.

Thanks.

951Tom

Yes definitely plug the brake lines. Use rubber vacuum caps or plastic plugs.. You'll still have to bleed the system once it's back together.

thomasmryan

Parking brake stuff can be is easy....just a flat head to install the hold down spring. (I don't like that spring) Pretty simple to put the pins in the mechanism on my 92...leave the other side together if you need a reference.


If you have the modular rear bearing, you will destroy it to pull the hub parts to swap over.

odonnell

Just undo the brake line and don't worry about it, especially when you have a power bleeder.

KevinGross

On the brake lines, if you keep the pedal depressed, that will close the inlets in the master cylinder and minimize the draining. A length of 2x4 between the pedal and seat works well.

Unless you've been diligent in hose replacement or someone was kind enough to use anti-seize, you may find removing fittings on the rigid line to the caliper and the flex line a challenge. Heat, penetrating oil, flare nut wrenches, and patience. And use anti-seize on the threads when reassembling. As Tom suggests, make liberal use of caps and plugs to keep debris out of the system.

If you have an aluminum arm versus early steel, the bearing will need replacement because it will come apart on removal. The nut is single use, do *not* reuse. I have seen a variety of techniques used on the bearing including expensive special tools. I have found that you can chill the bearing (refrigerator over night) and heat the arm (MAP gas plumber's torch) and the new bearing will slide right in. Since the new arm will be off the car, using a hydraulic press is another good option.

You can find various suggestions on this board for loosening and tightening the big nut. 500 Nm for the late cars, not sure what that translates to in Murikan. I use an 800 Nm torque wrench, probably not a practical option for you. Experienced techs can tighten it "by feel" with an impact gun, and you may want to have a local shop check for tight for you. Mark the nut with a paint pen so that you can do a visual check for any future loosening.

"Since you're in there" is a good enough excuse to inspect and replace all the other nuts and bolts that will be coming off and going on. Rule of thumb: if they show grey corrosion, reuse. If they show red rust, replace. Did I mention using anti-seize? Of course.

The parking brake cable end can get pretty stuck in the semi-trailing arm with time and corrosion. Tapping its end with a drift from the outside can help, as can our good friends heat (on the arm) and penetrating oil. If you just can't get it to budge, cut the wire and whack it with a full-diameter drift and bigger hammer, replace the cable. Reinstall with anti-seize on the cable end where it sits in the arm.

Parking brakes are a pain, as you note, really an anachronism that I hope someday is replaced by a better design. Clean all the dust away (don't inhale), make sure the linings are intact, lube the adjuster with a moly paste. Make sure the pressure and return springs are in serviceable condition. Check the trailing arm beforehand to understand which direction you have to quarter-turn the ends of the pressure springs to get them locked to the arm. Be patient, keep a beer on hand. Figure out which way you have to turn the adjusters before popping the rotor back on.

Hope this helps, good luck.

wildcat077

Like Kevin says ... just depress the brake pedal with a 2x4 and you'll likely only lose a few drops of brake fluid !
Might as well replace the bearing while you're there,find a friend who has the Arnnworx bearing tool,it makes the whole job a lot easier.

Cheers
Phil

Phantoms

Thanks for the tips guys! I had no idea to depress the pedal and anti seize will certainly be helpful.

This has rapidly turned into a giant while I'm in there project. I've already replaced the CV boots, and I have a new wheel bearing and axle nut as well.

I couldn't justify installing the used arm I have with a 30 year old bushing, so I cut/burned that out last night, only to find that a new set is around $200. Now I'm considering elephant racing or racers edge spherical bushings. I think I'm going to replace the spring plate bushings as well.

I picked up a bearing removal and adapter kit from Harbor Freight that a buddy recommended so I should be set on that front.

Now the biggest downside to this project is that the replacement arm I have still has the axle nut and hub on it. The hub is covered in rust so I'm going to use the one that's currently on my car. I'm not looking forward to putting everything together only to take it back apart once I have the axle nut free.

thomasmryan

Chucks rubber spring plate bushings are nice.

Get the toe tool when you are ordering parts...dusting the intermediate plate with contrasting rattle can paint will get you close to your original alignment..