dan's-85.5-944

yes, there are still a lot of bubbles going through the site glass. the issue is that for optimum cooling they advise 10% less than using r12 but you can't tell what 10% less is just by viewing the site glass. filling it until there are very few bubbles going by in the site glass, like for r12, would no doubt be overfilled.

perhaps i should just be happy that it is blowing cold at all and for far less than the $250 or so that the shop wanted to evacuate and recharge with r12. this has got to be better than enduring those 100 degree plus days without a/c this last summer.

thanks, dan

DinoEck

That's the way I'd look at it. As one P-car wrench told me, the hoses leak all the coolant out anyway so refilling is the way to go...

noah

dan's-85.5-944

i think youre right. i have owned this car since early 1987 when it had but 20k miles on it and it needed recharging every 2 years. i dont think the porsche people put much design and engineering effort into a/c. local dealer told me that 911's are typically even worse, usually needing topping up every year. i will be happy with my current results.

dan

dan's-85.5-944

well, i think i spoke too soon about the a/c running ok. today it was in the low 90's around here so i turned it on and what do you know... no cool air at all... nada, zilch, etc. i am now very depressed and you all probably know the feeling... ie, when you think you have something licked.

not sure what to do now. i dont see any of the red dye from the stop leak to indicate where a leak is but i cant see every part of the system or hoses from up above. no red dye around the shraeder valves or the drier.

anybody have an opinion on what to do next? i might just add more freeze 12 and see. the guy i bought it from suggests getting the system pressure checked. to reiterate, there was r12 left in my system but not enough to activate the pressure switch. i added a can of freeze 12 leak stop/detector and then freeze 12 (not a whole can).

any and all help is much appreciated... thanks, dan

DinoEck

you need to check pressures, a low side pressure gauge is cheap ($12.95 or something) at autozone... are there bubbles moving in the site glass? is your compressor running?

Noah

p.s. be careful to determine which port is high press and low press, you can blow up things if you get them mixed up.

dan's-85.5-944

well Noah, my mechanic pointed out the low pressure side to me long time ago. it is what i used to add the freeze 12 and the stop leak. it's right up on top, right next to the fender... very convenient. the high pressure valve is on the other side of the drier, right behind the driver's headlight.

there are and were lots of bubbles in the glass (see one of my earlier posts) while i was getting lots of cool air but no cooling now.

if i had a gauge like you recommend, what pressure reading do i look for anyway?

since it was cooling, something either redistributed in the system or leaked out but i cant tell. i will try to add more freeze 12 and see what happens.

if you hear a loud BAM !!! it means my alzheimers is kicking in about the high pressure vs low pressure valve locations. just kidding.

hot around the color Dan

dan's-85.5-944

well, i think i done it now. i added some freeze 12 on saturday and got the compressor to start running and was getting cool air once again. then i disconnected the freeze 12 and shut down the engine and.... oh-oh, i could hear a very distinctive hissing type noise from right above where the alternator and a/c compressor are located. i couldnt see down in there well enough to tell where it was coming from or to see if there was any red dye evidence from the leak stop/detector but "it sure don't sound good" and gas was obviously leaking out. that's why the cooling had stopped after i filled it initially, i guess.

when i filled it, i was worried about overfilling it and creating too much pressure so i stopped while there were still lots of bubbles in the sight glass but maybe that wasnt a good enough technique... whaddya think.

so what might have happened here and what do i do. my fear is that it is the compressor. if it is, can i rebuild it or should i get one intended for these alternative coolants like freeze 12 or r134? how the heck do i remedy this without going broke... errrr, broker.

where is the best place to go for the right parts i need at fair prices... and knowledgeable people too.

i assure you that i am not taking this lightly... i think i may be a bit delirious from the trauma. please help with advice if you can. sad dan

DinoEck

There is a guy online (rennlister) that sells porsche-specific compressors, his name is Griffiths and he seems like a good guy, check him out at http://www.griffiths.com/ ... I don't know him but have a sense that he'd sterr you right in terms of advice.

I spend more time on teh rennlist email lists than the bboards, and he is an infrequent contributor there but seems well regarded.

FYI what makes you think this is more complicated than just a broken hose or fitting? I know whenever my p-car breaks I assume the worst, but maybe this is somethign easy? Get under there and have a look.

Good luck!

Noah

DinoEck

BTW there is some great info on his site about diagnosing problems, etc.

http://www.griffiths.com/achelp/achelp2.htm

KuHL 951

The Freeze 12 is 80% R-134 and 20% R-142; the bubble in the sight glass method will not work. You need to measure the high/low pressures using aa AC manifold or use the gauge that comes with the Freeze 12 starter kit. I would not have left the old R-12 in there, you really should have it vacumned and replace the drier/receiver. If there "is" a small leak the R-142 will exit before the R-134 leaving the problem of incompatible R-12/R-134 oils. Never mix refrigerant types, not a good idea.

silverBean

That sounds very enticing considering my budget. I need 40 ounces of R12 and one place quoted it as $4.50 an once!!!! that shall be the death of me if the heat isn't!!!

KuHL 951

Chandler Arizona...yes you need good AC. I once broke down in a August in Eloy, AZ (115 deg.) in my 58 MGA Twin-Cam...it was like a scene from "Deliverance Goes Desert". Anyway, the Freeze 12 works well in a clean system and will put out air nearly as cold as R-12;a R-134 conversion will kill you with your Summers. If you have a cheap venturi type vac pump you can do all the work yourself. I've used mine now for 2 years and it cost a whopping $14.99 at Harbor Freight. Also you can venture into Mexico and buy R-12 by the case at any good auto supply or a dealer with a parts department. That's where mine comes from in brand new Dupont cans. Last year I paid $5.50/12 oz can through a friend. Du Pont stills makes it in Durango in 12 oz cans and 30 lb tanks. Good Luck

dan's-85.5-944

Can anyone tell me with authority what the low and high pressures out to be when replacing r12 with Freeze 12? i see a lot of warnings about watching both but no real affirmative on what the best pressures are for a 1985.5 non-turbo 944.

also, i picked up one of those little Harbor Freight vac pumps and will try itn out. only cost me about $10 in one of their stores when i took in one of their online ads showing that price offering.. they will honor online harbor freight ads in stores.

i still need to find and fix my leak first though... i have been very lazy but the heat is motivating me again.

dan

Cyrus951

I filled my system with freeze 12 last week.
I got the r12 cleaned out, the system was tested, had no leaks, and filled with freeze12 for $80.
The stuff works great, it's like 65 degrees in the car.

dan's-85.5-944

so Cyrus J., what pressures did you fill your system up to or what pressures did your shop do? do you know or can you find out or can you tell me the number of the shop so i can ask them please?

thanks, dan.... 65 degress sounds very, very good