Control arm replacement / alignment - timing?
09-09-2003, 08:29 PM
#1
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Control arm replacement / alignment - timing?
This may be a silly thread, so I appologize in advance....
My right front ball joint is shot for reasons yet to be determined (I believe it's a power steering leak). So, I bought those rebuilt arms and am ready to have them installed. I have also had a local place (Eurotire) order me some Koni Yellow's--but after 2 weeks, they are STILL not in yet.
The question: Can I hold off doing the ball joint/control arm replacement until the shocks are ready to go in-getting it all done at once, or is it a safety hazzard that needs fixing ASAP? I can have the control arms put in on Thursday, along with having the leaks looked at/fixed, but that would mean TWO alignments - one on Thursday, and another when Eurotire installs the Koni's in a week or two. At almost $200 for a 4-wheel serious alignment, doing it twice makes no sense, unless I run the risk of losing a wheel on the highway if I don't fix the ball joint?
What would you guys that can't do-it-yourself do??
My right front ball joint is shot for reasons yet to be determined (I believe it's a power steering leak). So, I bought those rebuilt arms and am ready to have them installed. I have also had a local place (Eurotire) order me some Koni Yellow's--but after 2 weeks, they are STILL not in yet.
The question: Can I hold off doing the ball joint/control arm replacement until the shocks are ready to go in-getting it all done at once, or is it a safety hazzard that needs fixing ASAP? I can have the control arms put in on Thursday, along with having the leaks looked at/fixed, but that would mean TWO alignments - one on Thursday, and another when Eurotire installs the Koni's in a week or two. At almost $200 for a 4-wheel serious alignment, doing it twice makes no sense, unless I run the risk of losing a wheel on the highway if I don't fix the ball joint?
What would you guys that can't do-it-yourself do??
09-09-2003, 08:34 PM
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I lost a wheel once from ball joint failure.... It's no fun. The ball breaks free of the aluminum arm and lets the wheel fling wildly about bending and breaking everything it touches (fender, tie rods, etc...). Or if your lucky , like I was, it just pops infront of the broken a arm and you coast gently to a stop.
You will probably be ok until the shocks come in but since you did buy rebuilt arms you run the risk of making the arms you have now non usable as core returns.
You will probably be ok until the shocks come in but since you did buy rebuilt arms you run the risk of making the arms you have now non usable as core returns.
09-09-2003, 08:36 PM
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I don't see any sense in doing it twice aswell. Since you are going to be replacing the strut I don't see any severly adverse effects from waiting on the arms.
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09-09-2003, 08:56 PM
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Originally posted by DerSchlechtSpecht
I don't see any sense in doing it twice aswell. Since you are going to be replacing the strut I don't see any severly adverse effects from waiting on the arms.
Christian
I don't see any sense in doing it twice aswell. Since you are going to be replacing the strut I don't see any severly adverse effects from waiting on the arms.
Christian
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AndyK,
Yes put the arms on now! Take note of where the caster settings are and put them back in the same possition.
Don't take off the tie rods.
Don't take the spindle off of the strut or even loosen it. Just loosen and remove the cross bolt for the ball joint and drop the arm.
Yes you do have to take off the sway bar. Might be time for sway bar bushings!
09-09-2003, 09:01 PM
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Socal-
I won't be doing this job myself (unless Adrial has free time for a garage control arm replacement lunch?), so of course the shop that would be doing the work won't take the "be careful and avoid alignment" approach!
I won't be doing this job myself (unless Adrial has free time for a garage control arm replacement lunch?), so of course the shop that would be doing the work won't take the "be careful and avoid alignment" approach!
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09-09-2003, 09:40 PM
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Vibrations are non-existant. I do hear a "clunk" when I slow down, which I assume is because of the bad ball joint. The steering is tight...and I am only going by what this mechanic shop told me (bad ball joint).
09-09-2003, 11:10 PM
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Hard to say, I hear the hatch rattling so much! I notice when I hit a bump, the car kinda wants to go off course a little.
My theory is, my power steering fluid is leaking on the front right suspension. Ball joints, and maybe sway bar bushing (the cause of the strange clunk when I slow down).
My theory is, my power steering fluid is leaking on the front right suspension. Ball joints, and maybe sway bar bushing (the cause of the strange clunk when I slow down).
09-10-2003, 09:51 AM
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No problem Adrial! I figured you were busy. I'll probably have the new mechanic fix the leak, install the arms, maybe new sway bar bushings too.
If it takes Eurotire any longer to order the shocks from Koni, I'll just get them from Paragon, and eat the add'l alignment fee. Cost of bad timing!
If it takes Eurotire any longer to order the shocks from Koni, I'll just get them from Paragon, and eat the add'l alignment fee. Cost of bad timing!
09-10-2003, 10:11 AM
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Andy K,
Do you have access to a garage? I also have to get my ball joints done but since I park my car in a municipal garage I can't work on it there.
Hate paying $600 to my mechanic when I can do something for 1/3 the cost myself.
Do you have access to a garage? I also have to get my ball joints done but since I park my car in a municipal garage I can't work on it there.
Hate paying $600 to my mechanic when I can do something for 1/3 the cost myself.
09-10-2003, 10:17 AM
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The ball joints are a breeze. If your rattle, clunking isn't terrible, and you don't plan to put more than a couple hundre miles on the car over a two week period, then I think this is a decent calculated risk. Note: RISK.
I would do it all at once (in fact, that's what I did), but I'm not you and I can't decide for you.
What I CAN do is offer phone help if you try the repair yourself. It's really not too bad.
Is that S2 control arm aluminum like the turbo, or pressed steel like the NA? Either way it's a straight forward repair.
feel free to email for a phone number if you need help: jonnyflyboy@yahoo.com.
--- I would recommend bushings too while you're in there, cheap and worth the time. Also, how old are your rotors?
I would do it all at once (in fact, that's what I did), but I'm not you and I can't decide for you.
What I CAN do is offer phone help if you try the repair yourself. It's really not too bad.
Is that S2 control arm aluminum like the turbo, or pressed steel like the NA? Either way it's a straight forward repair.
feel free to email for a phone number if you need help: jonnyflyboy@yahoo.com.
--- I would recommend bushings too while you're in there, cheap and worth the time. Also, how old are your rotors?