Chris_924s

Wellll.. some of you may know- and some of you dont- But on the last trip to Ohio I had planned a rear pad swap.
Turns out the rear pins are rusted into place. No amount of hammering, torching, or PB blaster has set them free from thier home.

The options I can think of.. Cutting the pins off, driving the leftover rusted parts out of the caliper body with a center punch, and taking some valuable knuckle skin with it..

Anyone think of a better idea?? I'd like to get this accomplished before the next trip to Ohio, as the rotor is shot now. This trip today will be in the Buick, so the P-car will sit for a week or so out of my sight.

I've located replacement rotors, and possibly replacement calipers (If need be).

Should I....

Drive 400 miles and tear them up as they will just be replaced? I'm a little worried about heat.

any other ideas about rear caliper pin removal?

The pins have been mushroomed a little due to some banging. also tried a c-clamp and empty socke to press them out from the inside..

I'm in Good hands in Cinci- I know those guys (nine-44, xboost) know their stuff- I was looking for any other ideas prior to major surgery.

89magic98

Can you drill them out? This assumes you could get the entire caliper onto a drill press, maybe.

Aren't these pins made of brass?

Reminds me to look at mine... I was going to do rear pads/rotors soon, and rebuild the calipers.

Kevin

Bryan

I got a set of 4 calipers from an '88 8-valve Florida car, with thick Pagid pads in them, off eBay for $25. That's $6.25 per caliper. I'd just replace them - if they're so bad that the pins are rusted in, I suspect the piston's boot is probably shot, and it's about to seize up anyway. I'd just chuck them and replace them with some decent used ones.

Bryan

Chris_924s

The piston seals look OK, If bad I would consider rebuilding them during a winter day when I had some time. I think the pins are steel, but considering how fast they mushroomed at the inside- and with so little hammering, they may be brass.
I'm leaning towards a wholesale replacement. This means I'l probably do a full brake fluid flush as well- I was considering that anyhow.

Thanks!

nine-44

If you decide to bring it up before tackleing the rears, let me know. I'd be more than happy to help in any way I can. I'm pretty sure they are steele tho. Kinda worries me to have to drill them, one little lip and you can put your brake in jeopardy. If you can, just swap them and maybe do a rebuild to the new one prior to install. They won't be a problem again anytime soon.

Chris_924s

Andy- I've said it before- You are the best! We'll tacke it when i get back with her. I'll prob drive it here as is, and swap everything when I get the parts list complete.

I'm in Cinci right now at the library BTW!!! North to Columbus tomorrow am.

nine-44

Sweet, back in the ole Natti! Let me know man.

tifosiman

Chris,

I think that you should just take my rear calipers from me along with the rotors. Those old ones of yours sound scary.

If you are headed to Columbus tomorrow, you could stop by my work on the way (1/2 mile off I-75 in Miamisburg)and pick up the parts. I'm going to PM you with my phone number. Call me tonite if you want me to bring the parts to work and I can give you directions.

Jeremy

nine-44

If you do it out there, you can borrow my little vaccume bleeder to use on it, makes the job a bit easier.

Wade B

The pins are steel, just soft steel. Since corrosion most likely caused your pin seizing problem, it would be a safe bet that even though the calipers may be functional, your piston bores are probably pitted/corroded too. Replace 'em if you can. As many miles as you drive that thing Chris, being our resident "roaming nomad", we'd hate to see anything happen to you.

89magic98

Chris, when did you last remove the pins to change the pads?

Can anyone else comment on how the pins can be treated so as to avoid what happened to Chris? Can a liberal amount of caliper grease be used to cover them? Should the pins be spray-painted before installation?

I guess the other question would be, how good are these "replacement brake hardware" kits you see advertised on Performance Products, etc? Maybe they are made of materials that would more quickly corrode (i.e., not as good as OEM). I was thinking of changing out all of the hardware when I did my brakes, as well as getting steel brake lines and a rebuild kit for each caliper.

Thanks!

-Kevin

pete944

Hey Chris, I'll volunteer my Motive Bleeder. It'll make short work of a brake fluid flush. I second Tifo, take his calipers, rebuild the old ones over the winter and sell 'em.

xsboost90

see, you shouldve came over the other day, and i wouldve cut em off. Ten minutes tops.. get ahold of andy if you want me to.

Chris_924s

As soon as I get the rotors/ calipers from Tifo, get back to Illinois and drive the 924S back here I'll be there Xboost!. We'll cut em off and play from there- If the old calipers are completely shot- so be it. I'll just do a rebuild on the "new" calipers before I get there and get back to square 1. I'll get some new brake fluid and just replace all of the fluid in the system.

Which gets me thinking.... any suggestions on brake fluid? I was thinking blue, but I heard it attracts a lot of moisture- and I drive during the winter- and better candidates than just plain old brake fluid? Swepco anyone?


Driving the Buick .. is well.. driving a Buick. I forgot about that yesterday and noticed a little excessive body roll on an exit I was taking and decided to slow down.. so many hours behind the wheel of a Porsche you kind of forget how the other half lives..and is forced to slow down in curves.

Thanks Wade- you are right- I do rack up quite a few miles. and I want a ride in the Limo!!

The rotors were beginning to score from the inside circumference out, luckily on the exterior face so I can watch it pretty well. The grinding is occurring from the center - when I noticed it at a while ago it was a 1/4" patch of grinding, but has since grown to about 3/4" wide. (about 500 miles..)It's only 1 surface on the exterior drivers side rear, but the rest or the rotor cant be far behind. Luckily the drive is mostly highway and very little stop and go from Springfield, IL to Cincinatti. I should get thru it with no issue, and I will have a support vehicle following me on the next trip east.

Kevin- I have NEVER done my rear pads in the 6 years she's been on the roads daily- Many miles in all sorts of weather. Pads were new when I got the car, but she sat for a few years in an unheated garage prior to me purchasing it. So I'm guessing the pins have been in place for at least 7 years. quite a lot of freeze/ thaw cycles and exposure to humidity. the new pins (Thanks again, Andy's Part store!!)will be cleaned and high heat lubed prior to installation.

Now if I can only convince Patti that painting my calipers Guards red is a good thing... she thinks its a little ghetto..

tifosiman

Uhoh. The ones you are getting from me have some crap red paint job on them from the P.O.

Tifo